C206B-C Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

I unplugged the stove. Took out the burner and removed receptacle by pulling it out of the bracket and clipping the wires. One thing you want to make sure is that when you clip the wires from the receptacle you're replacing you leave enough wire so that you can connect them to the wires on the new receptacle when it is in place on the stove. I had just enough but would have liked more. The bracket I received didn't match the one on the stove so I used the one on the stove since the receptacle itself was the same as the one I was replacing.

Disconnect power cord first. I remove the air fan cover to get to the two screws which hold the fan switch and burner knobs. Remove burner knobs and and remove switch cover, disconnect wires to fan switch. Pry spring nuts off with screwdriver to get switch off. Pay attention to which way switch goes on so that it turns on in the right direction. Install spring nuts (they may look too small but they're not) using a deep small socket the size of the spring nuts tap the the socket with a small hammer and the nuts will be locked in place. Put everything back in place and your done.

First the power to the cooktop was turned off. Two screws were removed to be able to lift the fan switch holder. The old switch was removed easly because it fell apart. The nuts holding the part in broke as they were removed so they could not be reused. The new switch was put in place however the nuts were too small. I don't know what they were supposed to fit but not these screws. The part was super glued in place. It works perfectly.

Ok, however, from what I read on the internet those who wrote down their advice and experience regarding this particular part, explained that the push nuts were too small to accomodate the studs. I too had the same problem, and therefore had to get other ones at the local hardware store. Apparently this is inherently a commmon problem. You need to provide push nuts with a slightly larger diameter, so they can be pushed down the studs/pegs.

Removed top and front panel

1. Turn off power at breaker. Take no chances. Turn on each working burner, fan, oven light to be sure there is no power to the appliance. Then, turn them off.
2. Pull knob on switch straight out to remove.
3. Remove 4 Phillips head screws under control panel. Pull panel gently down, then out toward you slightly to release top edge. Rest control panel on self-clean lock knob.
4. Confirm terminals on new switch match up with old switch.
5. Use needle-nose pliers to gently remove wires from old switch one at a time and place them on the
corresponding terminal on new the switch.
6. Reverse steps 3, 2 and 1. Test switch and burner.

Removed screws by drilling one and using a pliers to remove 2nd one. At first did not have enough wire to pull recepticles out until I relized wires were clipped to back of range to hold in place. Unclipped wires, pulled recepticles out, cut wires and attached new recepticles by connecting wires with wire nuts (I think wire nuts were to small so I used my own a size larger). Another problem that I found was that the recepticles on my range were held in place only by the screws that attached the recepticles to the drip pan flang. I had to bend an L bracket to prop under each recepticle to hold the back of it up so the burner element would sit level over the drip pan.

Removed cover, disconnected 2 wires, attempted to remove push nuts with nutdriver, screw driver, and pliers to no avail. Cut off metal bracket with diagonal cutters, then cut off push nuts with diagonal cutters. Push nuts with kit would not fit the threaded posts. Found washers and regular nuts to attach the switch. Replaced the 2 spades on the wires (both were burnt) and shrink wrapped both spades. Pushed on the spades and reattached the cover to the cooktop.

After buying a 'universal' part at Lowe's and it not fitting correctly and shorting out the burner, I went online and found this source for an exact replacement part. Beside having to disassemble the drop in stove burner two or three times it went well when I had the correct part. I lost one screw somewhere and that delayed me a short time to find a replacement. Thus the 1 to 2 hours. It would have been about a 30 minute job if I had been smarter.

1. Flipped breaker and confirmed no power at cooktop.
2. Removed the Fan grille and removed the two screws holding on the control panel. It tilts up and out to the rear.
3. Unscrewed the 2 screws on top holding old switch to panel.
4. Disconnected the wiring one lead at a time and connected it to the new switch in the same spot. There are 5 wires total and I carefully used needle nose pliers to remove reluctant wires and to adjust connectors if they were loose on new switch
5. Screwed the new switch onto the panel and screwed the panel back onto the cooktop.
6. Tested new switch...worked great.

just installed

Pulled the old one out & inserted the new one. Less than five minutes.

We replaced the burner grates, knobs, air filter and burner pan. Looks as good as new!

Pulled out electric heating element and replaced with new. I have had this frustrating problem for 2 years and after replacing the elements they now work like new! My only question, why did it take me so long to replace???

1. Diagnosed problem = switch at fault not element
Made a diagram of wire positions on faulty switch
2. Ordered part = remarkable service! Switch arrived in less than 24 hours
3.Installed new switch
4. Tested appliance = success!
5. Saved $150 and a lot of aggravation
Terrific site. Excellent help in figuring out and solving the problem. Two thumbs up!