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Washing machine began making a screeching noise but only during the spin cycle - when it was emptying the water from the tub. After a few uses the machine just stopped working.
The pump was easy enough to replace. Access panel in the back and 3 screws and it was off and back on in less than 20 minutes. It was putting the belt on that gave me the most trouble even though one of the pulleys moved to allow for easy replacement it did not move enough. It took me another 30 minutes just to get the belt on. I finally decided to place the belt on the two smaller pulleys and save the larger one for last and it went on with no trouble at all. Learn from my error =]
discharge pulley assembly bearing going out on it.
Went to website, looked up make and model, looked at photo's discription, studied it, and then went in and removed front panel, turned off water, removed clamps holding hoses too dishcharge pump, mopped up water, and then just reinstalled new piece, the way the old came out, re attached belt to pulley assembly, turned water back on, and did a test for leakage and wala washer back in working order in less than an hour, and saved hundreds of dollars with out maytag repair man.
I tilted the machine on it's back to remove the drive belt. You could feel the friction in the pump when you turned the pulley. I set the machine back down and removed the back cover (4 screws). I removed the two hoses with a pair of pliers. I used a small socket set to remove the three mounting screws. I ordered the pump. I reversed the process to put it back together. It took about 35 minutes to determine what the problem was and to remove the pump. It took about 20 minutes to put it back together.
Removed front of washer following instructions on partselect.com (used putty knife to release catches). Removed hoses and belt from pump, then removed and replaced the pump. Reattaching the belt was the only awkward task.
Remove tub assembly per snubber replacement procedure. Place tub assembly on top of a milk crate open-side up. Support tub assembly on milk crate with 2x4's to protect pully from damage. Remove agitator from tub assembly. Press down on tub assembly cap, release tabs and remove tub assembly cap. Remove inner tub from tub assembly. Mark tub frame with location of outer tub air bell for ease of reassembly. Remove outer tub from transmission assembly. Replace inner tub gasket Replace outer tub gasket
Problem encountered was that the replacement tub had a defective air bell. The washer consequently did not detect fill level and subsequently overflowed flooding the laundry room. The bell looked ok visually. Blowing into the air tube while plugging the inside hole with a finger revealed a pinhole leak in one corner of the PP weld. PartSelect was prompt with replacement, but the job had to be redone in its entirety.
Always test the air bell before installing an outer tub.
washing machine filled with water, nothing else happened.
Spoke with a trusted repair man, described the problem best as I could. I smelled a burning rubber smell. Got on Internet for troubleshooting problems, 77% likely a drive belt. BINGO! Ordered a new belt, took old one off, cleaned the pulley ( it had burnt rubber stuck on it, difficult to remove) lightly sanded pulley just so it would be really smooth. replaced belt. Magic, it worked. I am no repair woman, but carefully listening and explaining helped. Oh, belt is under the very bottom of machine. Very easy to get to, just tilt back and lodge at an angle and make sure it doesn't move.
All i had to do was pull the washer machine from the wall and lean it back as far as i could and get under it and place the (DRIVE BELT) on the two smallest pulley then put the belt on the large pulley and my work was done it was very simple and easy.......
I first opoen the front panel of the washer. That was a bit tricky. Had to slide a thin blade between the top of the washer and the front panel, pushed in to release the "clamp" and gently raise the top, it hinges on the back. The rest was undoing three bolts, refit the new pump and put the belt back on. The part cost me less then $65.00. The repair estimate by the local repair man was $ 250.00. I am very happy.
Raised washer. Identified problem. Removed from panel, gaining access to drain pump. Removed hoses, replaced pump. NOTE: I used blue Loctite on pump mounting bolts. Reinstalled from panel, lowered washer, cleaned drum. Ran one (1) cycle with hot water and bleach ONLY.
Tilted washer back and removed belt Lifted front of top and propped up Unscrewed two screws and removed front of washer Disconnected two drain lines from tub Disconnected 6 springs from tub Removed tub Popped off bottom plastic cap Removed locking ring Slid off gear from shaft Unbolted screws from snubber support ring replaced snubber Put everything back together in reverse order
I removed the back panel and then removed the old pump. After attaching the new pump I flipped the machine and attached the new belt. I put everything back together and voila, the machine works.
Because I live alone, the washer is very heavy so I just used some sliding robots under the legs of washer so I could slide it out from the wall by myslef after removing the small plate in the back to accfess the water pump I used the nut driver to remove the 3 screws holding the pump in place, but I used the pliers to remove the 2 water hoses first then I mounted the water pump back into place, installed both hoses again then I tilted it back against the wall while re installing the belt then I pushed it back against the wall and removed the sliders so I could make sure it was back level this was a very easy repair even if you never fixed any thing before the belt replacement was even more simple to replace because the motor is springloaded so you just had to pull on it enough to remove it from the pulleys
