AS2626GEKB Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

As the prior stories mentioned, this was a fairly easy fix to a nagging problem. Heck, we almost bought a new refer over this, cuz the door would keep popping open.

Needed a screwdriver, and a 5/16" nut driver (mounted in elec. drill). Have two people for this one! Emptying the door would help out tons too. ('course, I didn't do that!)

With the door closed, remove the plastic cover on top by removing 1 phyllips screw. Then, using drill mounted 5/16" nut driver, remove 3 hinge screws. Remove hing by lifting up. Now, carefully open and remove the door. Here is where the 2nd person comes in. There are 2-3 1/4" screws (Must use a 1/4' NUT DRIVER, SOCKET OR MAGNETIC BIT HOLDER) on the bottom of the door to remove the broken plastic cam. Also, you must remove the bad cam from the bottom hinge using I believe the 1/4" nut driver.

Finally , one person lift the door while the other kneels on the floor to help giude the door back onto the bottom hing pin. Close the door, ensuring that the top of the doors are even, and secure the 3 top hinge screws. UR done!

Greg

I searched the internet for the correct part and reviewed the instructions on the internet. Upon ordering the correct part I was provided a link to a video that walked me through step by step. The very first thing I did was unplug the refrigerator.I then located the control board located in the housing in the ceiling of the refrigerator. Using a screwdriver I was able to carefully separate the housing from the refrigerator ceiling . Unplugged the housing and then had to separate the plastic housing to locate the control board. Ran into a little difficulty at first separating the plastic tabs but with a screwdriver carefully pried the tabs. Once completely open is where the control board was. More plastic tabs holding the control board in place. Carefully separated the board from the tabs. The were two plugs that needed to be separated from the board. Used a screwdriver to get the plugs separated.The new board you had to bend carefully at a joint so the board became two pieces. Snapped the boards in place. Plugged the board in two spots. Put the housing together and put the housing in place in the refrigerator. Plugged the refrigerator in. All lights came on and then had to program the board. The instructions were spit on. The code is located inside the fridge were the model tag is. Programmed correctly. Word of advice read the directions a few times you can't go wrong. So far it's day 7 after I installed the board and no ice building up. According to the internet the control board controls the defrost function on my model. Very happy. I'm still watching the freezer but I'm pretty sure I fixed my matter. Thanks for sending the right part and the video. Repair went well. Just take your time and go easy because everything involved is plastic. I didn't want to break any tabs I had to deal with.

Unplug ref then remove lower(freezer) panel plus trays and thermistor’s cover/holder then remove the evaps cover. I found the evaps all frozen up. Cut and remove old thermistor, strip wires 1/2 inch then cut the new thermistor wires to length and strip 1/2 inch, use the enclosed insulated crimp type connector and put back everything in the reverse order. It works great afterwards.

Followed the video and installed the new Jazz board. The board cam in 1 piece which had to be separated into two pieces, but the scored area on the board made it less intimidating. At the same time I replaced the two incandescent lamps in the refrigerator area with LED lamps. Getting the housing for the control board apart was the most difficult part, installing the replacement board was a breeze.

By sliding athin screwdriver blade down the side of the old switch the expasion prong that hold the switch in place was compressed enough to allow the switch to come out easlily. Plugged in new swithc and snapped in place. Plugged the refrigerator back in and light has worked great sense!

remove front grill. with pry bar and wooden block, elevate side with broken wheel and insert wooden block behind assemble from the exterior bottom. With roller wheel assemble lose from the wooden block remove front elevator screw from the front frame. next remove cotter pin with the pliers and pull assemble pin. next elevate assemble out. drill out axle on the crimp side insert from the hardware store one 5/16 x 21/2 bolt with nut and new wheel. reinsert assemble in the reverse order. Remove wooden block and adjust height of wheel. replace grill. job complete. good job

Replaced filter and the water started to flow like the Nile River and the ice maker came back to life.

Snapped into place with the attached clips. Could not be easier. Really great service from PartSelect--got here faster than I expected. This was a great service--would recommend to everyone!

I pulled off the plastic shield from the front of the ice bucket. This exposed the two screws that I needed to remove to disassemble the ice crusher mechanism. Once the screws were removed, I was able to remove the helix and replace the end cap that was broken and place it in the new ice bucket. If I would have known it was this easy, I would have changed this out a year ago, instead of doing without crushed ice through the door for so long. Thanks PartSelect. com! I am a customer for life!

The digital display numbers (0= off and 7=coldest setting) controlled by the ECB would continually be replaced by straight lines, and the refrigerator would stop cooling. I tried unplugging it for a while. After plugging it in again, it worked (the digital display came on, I set it to "4" and it reached the proper temp), but the problem occurred again the following day, and then it stopped cooling entirely. I ordered the ECB, and it arrived in 3 business days. I watched the installation instruction video, took my time, double-checked the vid a few times to make sure I was doing it correctly, and replaced the ECB by myself in less than an hour. The refrigerator has been running without problems for 3 weeks now. My fridge had a different light bulb configuration than the one in the video, but everything else was the same, and it was a simple repair.

1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.

First, I removed the bucket and drained all the ice from it. Then I took the ice bucket out and lifted off the cover of it which exposed the teeth that grind up the ice. I then removed these in succession and placed on my table so I could make sure I put back together appropriately. Once I had the bucket with everything off of it, I replaced and threaded the auger back through it so I could attach the end cap to it. Once that was in place, I put the parts back on the way I took them off. It really was a painless process and saved a ton of money versus calling a repair person. Definitely will use the service again. Very prompt delivery as had the parts 2-3 days after ordered. Well done.

Followed the video on parts page. I was worried I would brake the cover but learned from the video the right way to remove the front plate. I found the video very informing. Thank you for saving me a service call and the part cost was minimal compared to a new refrigerator .

Firts checked the parts received werer correct for the repair and the correct part numbers ordered. Then removed the ice bucket with the auger in bottom. Emptied ice from original bucket auger assembly. Checked out the removeal of the face cover for the bucket auger and removed it from clips that held it in place. Checked the specifications of the old ice bucket compaired to the new parts. Installed the aurger assembly into the new ice bucket and removed the two screws from the old unit to use in secure the auger assembly in the new bucket. The only tool needed was a 1/4 inch nut driver. Installed the face place on the new ice bucket auger assembly and tested the fit in the freezer. Ran test of the auger assembly without ice to ck for any misinstlled parts. Refilled the ice bucket with ice and tested with ice to complete the repair.

One day when i went to get ice our ice maker started to jam. When i took it out i noticed that the metal arm that turns was out of position and blocked due to the End cap being out of place. I then put it back in place and it happened again. The bucket cracked due to the pressure caused by the ice been . The only problem that i have now is that when i hit cubed ice, crushed ice comes out...and when i hit crushed ice, cubed ice comes out. The installation and swapping of parts wasw really easy. Partselect has great breakdown diagrams so if you get lost u can turn to them.