ARB2117BW Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Pretty simple really after reading online some other owners' experiences. This is a bottom freezer unit. Remove the ice maker, the tray slides, and the back cover of the freezer box. In my case I had to thaw it out with a hair dryer as the cover was frozen in place. I checked the old 'stat and found it was bad; I temporarily wired the leads together until the new 'stat arrived. It does allow the refrigerator to warm up during a defrost cycle but it beats de-icing it twice.The defrost 'stat is clipped over the refrigerant line in the upper right corner of the box. Resistance was 65k ohms and wouldn't close on low temp (tested by clipping it to an exposed refrigerant line in another upright freezer) but there was no obvious damage. The one lead on the replacement 'stat has the wrong connector so you have to cut off the original lead from the old unit and splice it on the wrong lead on the new one. I used an epoxy sealed heat shrink type butt splice. Reassemble and let it run. One word of warning: be careful tightening any screws as they will strip easily

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Removed the 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place and remove the cover and level wire. Put the cover and wire on new part and install the 3 screws. Had ice within 1 hour. A very easy job for the do it yourselfer. Suspect the heat coil that melts the cubes was not working in the old unit and cubes stayed in the tray.

removed old ice maker by taking out a couple of screws in the back of freezer,when new ice maker arrived i saw that it didn't have the same hose apparatus as old one so I easily took apart old one then took apart new one and switched them out-very-- easily done for a 61 yr old lady I might add-- also had to reinstall ice maker arm off old ice maker as new one does not come with one Then installed new ice maker in freezer I am very very pleased,sure saved a lot of money doing it my self

I removed all food items from inside fridge/freezer doors.I then noticed how gaskets slip behind outter skin of both doors after removing all screws except a few on the top, inorder to keep from having entire door skin fall to the floor.Using back of spoon helps to properly fit gaskets into place without any rips.Using nut driver really helps with saving time and the "hairdryer" suggestion really helps with having gasket seat firmly around entire unit.Just take your time and pay attention to corners,they may need a little streching.

Happen to locate your site by Google. Was impressed and really pleased to find a schematic and directions to find and remove and specs to test the water valve and Defrost thermometer using an electric multimeter. You cannot tell by "looking" at a component if it is still OK.
So I put all the freezer contents into my beach cooler. The repair went as follows.
1. Removed the 6 screws from the back panel and pulled it out of the way.
2. Located the defrost thermostat and pulled it off of the coil.
3. Pulled the two connections off and took it to the bench to test. It showed no readings indicating it was dead.
4. Ordered a new one which came in two days.
5. Had to change the electrical connections using wire nuts.
6. Reversed the process plugged the refrigerator back into the wall. It started and later on I was getting ice cubes.
A great experience. Don't mess with repair guy as they normally are not up to speed on all devices and you are paying for them to learn how to repair your appliance in several trips. Probably using this site. If you can follow instructions, you can do this stuff.
Note. I tested the Water valve using given instructions. More time is used moving things around than the actual repairs. I avoided $150.00 for a new ice maker unit.

This was the third icemaker replaced since January 1999. Improvement need to be made in the design of the icemaker so that more than 2-3 years of life is available.
The most difficult part was disconnecting the power plug in the back of the icemaker. You must squeeze the upper and lower tabs together and pull out at the same time to disconnect. Once this is done, take out one nut head screw, lift up on the icemaker and remove from the hanger. Be careful that you don't break the plastic tabs on the hangers. Replace new icemaker in reverse, feed water supply where it must go in the back, resnap onto hangers, replace the nut head screw and snap in the power plug. It took about 2 hours before the icemaker began making ice. It has been working fine ever since. PS. I saved about $200.00 over having a repairman come in and replace the unit.

I removed the screws holding the side onto the drawer, removed the side, placed the new one on and put the screws back.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Very easy to order from parts select. Took seconds to replace.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Remove 1 screw under ice maker. Gently pull downwards to unhook ice maker. Disconnected 4 pin wire connector. Remove and set aside the cover and wire loop you will need on new ice maker. Reverse the steps to install new maker. Once new ice maker is installed you will have to wait 2-4 hours for ice. There is a thermostat that will need to reach 10 degrees F to operate.

The parts were very easy to replace, however I am still without ice and cannot figure out why. I have ohm tested the contol unit and everything works fine, I am able to jump it and turn on the motor and water fill valve. Any suggestions?...

Cut old fill tube into pieces, removed and replaced with new tube. Extremely easy.

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!