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Models > AE3213 > Instructions

AE3213 Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the AE3213
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Our Maytag dryer wouldn't spin under a load of wet clothes.
After checking out a video showing how to change the belt I decided to tackle the job. First I pried up the top, there are two plastic tabs in the front corners that hold the top down to the front panel. The top swings upward and will stay in position while you continue to work. Using a 3/8 socket, I removed 4 bolts that hold the front panel onto the frame. Be sure to unhitched the wiring to the door switch and those to the control panel and then the front will come out by lifting it off the tabs in the lower corners. Put the front panel aside and slide the drum forward and out of the dryer frame. Remove the old belt noting how it ms oriented around the tensioner and motor pulley. Now everything should be exposed and you should take the time and clean the inside if I were you. Our dryer was filled with lint and dust but after a good vacuuming and wiping down with a damp sponge, it looked like new again. Put the new belt around the drum noting where it had sat before. There is a grove in the drum but our belt did not go inside their but on the drum itself. Slide the drum back in place and from underneath put the belt on the pulley and under the tensioner. Replace the front panel, rehitch the wires and put the top down and your done. My wife helped clean the inside which took longer than replacing the belt. Total time about an hour or so cleaning time included.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt
  • Daryl from WESTBOROUGH, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Drum would not consistantly turn
Viewed video on website, however did not match model but put me in the ball park for an overall view. Thank goodness I had the insight to order the pully with the belt. I believe the pully failed first causing the problem with the belt. Recommend replacing both any way while you have it apart.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel w/ Bearing Multi Rib Belt
  • Gary from Pocono Lake, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Belt on drum was sqeuling on start up
Had to lay dryer on back. Cause it didn't have a back cover had to take the front door off and go in thru the front. Had to take the vent off. Had to use scotch tape to hold the belt in place while I got it on. It would have been a lot easier if they had a back cover. I only hope I don't have to do it again as it squells a bit on start up. Bill
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt
  • William from Mendota, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Belt noise/slipping even after replaceing worn motor assy
Unplug dryer. Remove lower panel.Remove dryer lent duct. Remove Thermostat fm fan housing. Remove Fan.Remove Fan housing. Remove Motor assy by sliding out, wires lay toward front, allowing room to replace idler pulley and spring. Use lock ring pliers to remove pulley from shaft. Grease pulley/shaft w/high temp grease [I used ultra-hi temp ceramic brake grease-can get in small packets at auto stores].Noise/slippage has all but stopped. Lesson: replace rear rollers and front felt/glides. Belt looseness also caused by worn rear rollers [smaller overall diameter from age]-even though they spin freely
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel w/ Bearing Idler Pulley Spring
  • Greg from Virginia Beach, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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The door switch was defected
The door switch was easy to replace. It is located in the right bottom of the door and I popped out with my fingers. Follow the wire connectors from the old switch and remounted back in.
Parts Used:
Door Switch Kit
  • Pete from ANAHEIM, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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switch clip broke
Unscrewed front panel. Pulled off unbroken wire connecter and popped switch and put new one in. Replaced front panel.
Parts Used:
Door Switch Kit
  • JEROME from NILES, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Loud screeching from idler pulley
The round exhaust duct in the back my dryer can be removed simply by pulling straight out. This gives full access to the belt tension wheel. Slip belt off the wheel, remove snap ring with snap ring pliers, remove washer and wheel. Install new wheel, attach belt, and reinstall duct by looking right down the middle to line up properly. Dryer sounds like new again. 10 minute job.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel w/ Bearing
  • Ken from POMPTON LAKES, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Broken prong
I began by removing the two screws at the lower part of the front panel. After removing the panel I was able to access and remove the broken switch which was located on the front panel. I popped out the old switch and replaced it with the new one, reattached the wires and put the front panel on and the jod was done.
Parts Used:
Door Switch Kit
  • Larry from Amarillo, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer door catch was broken
Was extrememly simple. Just unscrewed the two screws at the bottom front of the dryer and pulled the front of the drayer out. PUshed the broken catch out and snapped the new catch in place. Reattached the dryer front with the two screws and was done. Less than 15 minutes.
Parts Used:
Door Latch Kit
  • Robert from Greenbush, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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The dryer door would not cut the machine off when it was opened.
Installed the new part. Worked great!
Parts Used:
Door Switch Kit
  • JEAN from KINSTON, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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dryer door would not stay closed.
I unscrewed the door catch and pried out with some resistance the strike part. Screwed in the catch and pushed in the strike. Closed door. Voila!! Back in business with assurance.
Parts Used:
Dryer Door Catch Kit
  • maria from ROCHESTER, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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pop it pop it in
used needle nosed pliers, squeezed the latch pop up push new one in. very simple anyone can do it
Parts Used:
Door Latch Kit
  • brenda from gonzales, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
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door catch on dryer broke
I only had to replace the inside one
I pulled the old one out .
And snapped the other one in
Parts Used:
Door Latch Kit
  • Helen from Jacksonville, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
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dryer wouldn't heat
I tested all the thermostats and fuses and the heating element with a VOM. I found that the thermal fuse was bad and replaced that and it heats fine. The hard part was reaching everything from the front of the dryer. Poor design for access. Also replaced the door switch while I had it apart.
Parts Used:
Fuse Kit
  • Berkeley from Staunton, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Won't Tumble
Removed lower front panel.

Removed door assembly* making note of the wire positions on the door switch
* When removing the door assembly DO NOT LET IT DROP DOWN! Doing so will destroy the door switch. Swing the door assembly upward from the bottom toward you as high as it will go then pull it free.

Removed the drum and belt assembly.

Removed the idler pulley and idler pully spring.

Vacuumed up the interior dryer floor and blew out the motor w/ comp air. Also cleaned the ribbed motor pulley with a nylon brush and brake cleaner sprayed on a shop towel.

Removed the drum tires and cleaned their shafts and internal bearing sleeves with brake cleaner sprayed on a shop towel.

Reinstalled the drum tires after lubricating their shafts with a very light coat of general purpose grease.

Replaced the idler pulley and idler pulley spring after cleaning and lubing shaft and pulley bearing as done on the drum tires.

Reinstalled the drum with the new belt (ribbed side down) roughly in place.

Reinstalled the front door assembly after reconnecting it's wiring making sure to insert it's top locking tabs with the bottom of the door held up high then swung down into place

Tensioned the belt by positioning the flat side of the belt that comes down the right side of the drum over the idler pulley flat side down and then the ribbed side of the belt over the motor shaft. You will have to move the idler pulley arm to apply full tension against the spring in order to have the slack to get it around the motor shaft.

Reinstalled the lower front panel.

Checked dryer operation OK.

This repair was rated a bit difficult because I didn't know the trick for removing/installing the door assembly and destroyed the switch. Furthermore, putting the belt back on is a somewhat difficult challenge because you have to do it mostly by feel
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel w/ Bearing Idler Pulley Spring Door Switch Kit
  • Stephen from LEANDER, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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All Instructions for the AE3213
76 - 90 of 252