ADE9000AYW Admiral Dryer - Instructions

ordered new knob but I had to request a return of the part I received as the arrow on the new know was opposite of what it should be -

Checked the voltage to the high limit switch. Found that the element was bad. Ordered the part from partselect.com. and received the part in two days. Unplugged the unit, pulled the lid on the dryer, used the 5/16" nutdriver, removed 3 or 4 screws, pulled out the old and installed the new. Saved a $100.00 service call from the repair man! Novice in home improvement can do this. Thank you Partselect!!!

discovered it was a broken latch. Ordered the latch, only took 2 days to arrive and all I had to do was remove the broken latch and snap in the new one. I saved myself a service call. I'm very happy!!!!!!

Unplugged the 220 line, removed lint cover, (2 screws). Lifted top with a screw driver, (2 plastic fasteners) then unplugged a ground line at the front lip to separate the front panel. There was a 50/50 chance here that I would not put the wires back correctly, didn't not make note of the color differences. There was no lower panel, just a single panel on the front, which I first tried to remove like the top, but quickly saw no results, then lifted the panel easily, which I set aside. I rested the drum on a 4x4 piece of wood. I then slipped the new belt over the drum, aligned the bulkhead at the rear, and positioned the belt in the original position, there was a distinct mark showing this. Next I saw the idler pulley lying on it's side, hmm, thought this might take some time, but the illustrated instructions were very accurate, reset the pulley, pushed it toward the motor and doubled the belt around the pulley, it sort of felt right, according to the grooves on the floor panel. I then rotated the drum counter clockwise, then tested. It worked! Became a hero to my wife and found $1.86 in change, woo hoo! Total cost, including shipping under $20., two day delivery, amazing. Thanks.

Remove back panel, looking for access. upon reassembly dropped socket into lint trap. Dissemble again, also dissemble lint trap ducting, found it almost completely blocked by lint, clean and reassemble. Remove front panel and there is the problem of the broken belt. Try to look up online to no avail because I didn't have the proper machine ID, but I did find out where to look. Now with the right info ordered the part. Received in the post about 5 days. Upon reassembly I realized that the adjustor was laying in the bottom, picked up, cleaned inspected, OK, then needed to figure out where it goes, got it, then to figure out how it holds tension on belt. That took a few minutes, well maybe 10 then the old Ford light bulb came on, then installed the belt and adjuster. Replace front panel, slide back into place, hook up wiring and duct. Test, guess what folks it works.

It should have been easy but when some wires (3) came loose when I moved it to install it, I had a problem. The video that was run at a higher speed and too close up images you could not see which wire went where. Contacted Part Select and received no answer, so I tracked the wires down as much as I could on an old wiring diagram and hooked them up. I then connected the power, stood back and watched the switch smoke and blow circuits. No why to find the correct color wire to what part so I ended up having to buy a new dryer. Part Select has only sale people so don't expect help if something goes wrong. Good Luck

This should have been a very simple repair...replace the blower wheel.

However the replacement blower wheel was WAY too tight on the motor shaft. I was able to open the flat of the blower wheel hole with a 1/4 inch wood chisel..it went on with hammering and and a deep well socket.

I believe the replacement wheel was meant for the replacement motor.
The older style motor is no longer available, and I had no intentions of replacing it.

This was a way more involved repair than it should have been...After doing the repair, I noticed several reviews on this wheel stating the same problem.

Disconnect the power and gas supply so that you can slide dryer out and into an accessable area to work comfortablely. Removed top and front of dryer. When disconnecting numerous wires from the top controls, draw a simple color coded diagram for reconnection before you disconnect those wires. After removing the top and front, take out the drum and clean all the lint, money etc. out of the normally nonexcessable area of dryer. Place new belt on as you replace the drum. This takes two people; one to hold the drum in position and one to carefully work the new belt into place. Rotating the drum by hand will assist in the placement of the new belt on the drum. After reassembling the newly cleaned dryer it was a pleasure to try it and find a dryer that worked better than during its pre-repair use and it saved us the price of a repair call or a new dryer.

first, i read all the comments on this web site as well as other web site. sooner i confirm the problem is the drum belt, i order the parts.
my kemore model front panel is one piece. so i have to lay down the dryer and open the front panel on the top. The instruction sheet sent with the belt is very good, so it does not take too much time to replace the belt, the challenge task is to reconnect the front panel to the side panel. I spend too much time trying different way to use the fastner hook to connect panels without realizing that the hook is broken. stupid me. i later have to use the wire to connect the front panel to side panel. overall, i am very happy i fix the dryer.

With no experience repairing appliances, I did figure it out that the drive belt was broken since the motor was running and the drum did not turn.

What to do? Start looking for fasteners! I knew I had to get to the drum, but there was nothing up front, on top, or bottom that gave a clue. Only the back panel had hex head steel screws. I removed them and the panel. Then I removed a tube that pulled air from the drum to the outlet. I saw some screws holding the back of the dryer top. After removing them, the top popped off by pulling it up and releasing the attachment at the front.

This gave me access to a couple of screws holding the top of the front (holding the door). It seemed to make sense to lay what was left of the dryer on it's back. After removing the last two screws at the top corners of the front panel, I pulled it up and removed it. The drum lifted right out. The belt tightener was loose and lying against the back wall.

The local Sears did not have a replacement belt and their web site was not that helpful or forgiving. A Google search revealed a site called PartSelect. It had a very useful search routine which led me to make a purchase on a Saturday evening. The belt arrived at my door on the following Tuesday! Be sure to look at the instructions that come with the belt, it will demonstrate how to fish it through the loose belt tightener.

In about 1.5 hours the dryer was back together and doing it's thing. There were two additional screws left over, but I figure that's a manufacturing defect.

I was a hero to the wife, as usual.

I googled 'replace dryer belt' and found instructions on the 'Virtual Repair Man' web site. After reading the instructions through twice I began.

First I removed lent filter and removed the two screws that hold the lent body in place. I rotated the top panel up and back and leaned it on the wall; proped up the dryer drum with some scrap wood pieces; rotated the front panel of the machine out enough to slip the new belt, groves down, around the drum; reinstalled the idler pulley under the drum; raised the drum slightly and reattached the front panel. Reattached the top panel and replaced the filter. Did a test run and worked good.

I got a price from Sears for the part and they were asking $45 just for the belt. I saved enough in parts and labor to take my wife out for a real nice dinner. thanks

I pulled the old one off and put the new one on. It took about 3 minutes because I also replaced the old lint filter.

First unplug the machine and turn off the gas. Then, I pried the top up (2 clamps on front, 2 screws to the lint screen). Then I removed 2 5/16 nuts that fastened front panel to sides. I held the drum and pried the front panel back while my wife slipped the new belt around the drum. Then, I buttoned everything back up in reverse order, removed the kick panel, threaded the belt through the tensioner pulley and around the motor shaft. It's really that easy. PartSelect.com makes it simple with quick, accurate service.

Disconnect power. Removed front panel and lifted top. Removed belt around spring pully and motor assembly. Carefully eased belt around back of drum and gasket. Reverse process.

Just slid the new filter in.