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The door made a loud noise on opening and closing.
Emptied the door. Removed the door, top bolts first. Lifted out the door. Installed new cam at the bottom. Set the door back in place. Bolted the top hinge back on. Smooth!
The part came quickly and was the right one. You can't imagine how many outfits lose it here. Well done and thanks.
Once the part arrived, which was very quickly BTW..all I had to do was remove the old filter and then just screw the new one into place....Now I just happen to be both female and blonde but was able to get the job done in less than 15 minutes (that includes opening the box) and with very little water dripping from the old filter!!! Looks like I could work as the Maytag repair woman soon!!
Unplugged refrigerator. Removed water drip tray. Removed two Phillips screws. used putty knife to get behind outer plate and popped it off. Disconnected electrical connections. Removed the 4 nut driver screws. removed ice maker door. Removed seal around old Ice shoot flap and cleaned. Removed insulator pad from old ice maker flap and cleaned. Installed seal and insulator pad on the new chute door. clipped new chute door intact with seal and pad in place and snapped the top clips into place.
Reversed procedure to reinstall refrigerator parts.
Plugged in refrigerator and tested. Had no issues.
Removed top hinge cover and socketed out hinge nuts. Lifted door off bottom hinge. Socketed out broken bottom cam and replaced with new. Reset door with someone lifting and the other guiding. Reattached top hinge and cover. Voila.
My son (who does HVAC, but not appliance repair) did some investigating by taking front and back panels off and determined that the evaporator coil was freezing over because the defrost wire was not heating up. He and his girlfriend did some real-time internet searching for diagnostic info because NO control diagram was included with the refrigerator. He determined the problem was most likely the electronic control board. Ordered and installed a new board and the refrigerator is back to working fine. Took about 2 hours to diagnose the problem and 1/4 hour to actually install the control board. Kind of disappointing that this control board failed when the refrigerator was less that 4 years old.
Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.
Freezer temperature goes down to -20*F before compressor stops but refrigerator side remains normal 38*F and compressor makes a grunting noise while running.
Unplug ref then remove lower(freezer) panel plus trays and thermistor’s cover/holder then remove the evaps cover. I found the evaps all frozen up. Cut and remove old thermistor, strip wires 1/2 inch then cut the new thermistor wires to length and strip 1/2 inch, use the enclosed insulated crimp type connector and put back everything in the reverse order. It works great afterwards.
Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.
