9875VRV Magic Chef Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed frame to cabinet lag screws
Slid oven out of cabinet (required because wire harness could not be pulled through inside of oven)
Removed two screws holding attaching sensor inside oven
Uncoupled wire harness
Installed new sensor in reverse order

Unfortunately, neither the new bake element or sensor fixed the problem, so I just ordered the more expensive control board -- hope that does it.

Control panel was responsive however oven would not heat up. I Replaced sensor with one of the adapters and oven is now working again.

First off, because of weather delays, it took FedEx 8 days to deliver part, finally had to drive 3 miles out our road to meet driver.
The connectors were females on the new part as were the connectors in the range. Had to cut off oven connectors and replace with males. Fortunately, I had the connectors (not supplied) and knew how to attach them.

Took four screws out, pulled old one out and disconnected two wires and waited for new part to be delivered. installed part in one minute. I had the same thing happen 5 years ago and the repair person charged me $150. This time it cost me $40 .

I ordered the only part that looked like it would fit. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. But the new replacement had the wrong ends to fit right. I was going to email you back to see if there were other options for me, when a friend came by and said he would just replace the oven connecting ends and then it would work. Luckily he had extra little ends at home, came over and replaced the ends, cutting the old ones off of the oven side. He wire stripped the wire, attached the new ends and crimped and then reattatched the whole heating element. Without his know-how, I would have had to have a repair man come and do the same thing for me, or go buy a new stove.....but it is simple when you know how!! It would have been helpful to me, to have the description of the ends of the new element I was buying..... whether it was male or female... but it is fixed now, thanks to my friend. A steak dinner was cheaper than a repair man!!!!

I followed the instructions that were posted on the web site for the replacement of the element. I found everything exactly as described in the procedure. I disconnected the two screws that held the old element, removed the old element, inserted the new element and replaced the screws. I turned the oven control on and the element heated up. Everything has been working just fine.

Turned off power at breaker box. Removed two screws from the old bake element on rear of oven wall. Pulled out bake element from back of oven so wires were exposed (about 3-4 inches). By hand, removed the wire connector from each side of the element (wiggle it loose).

The part I purchased was exactly as described on the PartSelect website (i.e., it had the correct connections - female - on the bake element). The part arrived in 2 days in perfect condition. I definitely will use PartSelect again.

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. That is when I notice that the new element had a female connector and so did my wires comeing out of the stove. I took the old elements male end off (with a grinder). The mail end was long enough to use it connect both female end.

This was a very easy repair and the website helped greatly. my husband simply pulled old element out and pluged the new one in. Excellent website, saved us a lot of money.

Installed new thermostat. Went well. Now the oven comes on and it takes 2.5 hours to come up to 250 degrees. Help!

Followed directions as supplied. New part did not work, so it must be in the control unit which is no longer available. So time for a new range.

The oven did not auto clean. Problem was the sensor stopped working. Tried to repair from the front but could not get the connector through the hole. Removed the rear panel and found the connector had melted. Could not find a new wireing harnes on line, so I cut the wires on the stove and the new sensor coupling. Spliced the wires togather. The oven cooks fine, I have not tried the cleaning cycle yet.

Parts package contained no instructions. Found all instructions on internet. I used Phillips head to remove two screws on anchor plate of Long Oven Sensor. Located at upper left, back corner of oven; access to screws is not simple/easy. Screws back out w/o difficulty. Pull/extract sensor harness through hole[back of oven] which required pushing aside insulation. The harness barely fits thru hole in oven back metal wall; I recommend using needle nose pliers ( which I ended up doing ) for ease of extraction. Disconnect harness plastic interlok clips. Perfect reconnection of new clip harness with ease. Reverse procedure to complete installation/repair. Done in just over 35 minutes due to wrestling with harness extraction through minimal hole opening. Failure occurred on Thanksgiving Day with 22lbs turkey in oven. Top of turkey contacted sensor tip which eventually caused sensor fault; result was scorched upper breast and oven shut down [safety by design]. Cook top was still operative; clock and all readings on digital control panel ceased. With new 'long oven sensor' installed - good as new. Will be sure to buy turkey(s) under 20lbs in future. Jim in Seattle

Removed the back of the stove, un-pluged the sensor wires, removed the sensor from inside the oven. installed the new sensor, pluged in the wires, and replaced the back of the stove. A phillips screwdriver was the only tool needed.