8308-80B Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

Removed access door. Disengaged spring, removed old idler. Slipped belt around new idler and motor pulley. Difficulty is putting spring back and inserting idler pulley bracket back in place while there is a lot of tension from the belt. Finally used adjustable wrench as a mini hammer.

Remove top cover and front and remove drum and install a new bearing kit and new belt.

Removed small panel at rear of dryer which allowed access to the Idler Pulley asembly. Easily removed, and replaced with new idler assembly. Fed belt onto new pulley and attached tension spring. Actually, this replacement idler pulley assembly is much better than the original. It has a shoulder to allow the belt to "track" better over drum and around motor pulley. Dryer is now extremely quiet, like a new machine. Hope to get another 29 (yes 29) years out of it. Extremely pleased. Doug East Lansing, Michigan

Watched Video Provided. Very Simple Repair. Asked my lovely wife to hold drum in place while replacing drive belt. She gladly complied and is back doing what she seems to love most. And no, I'm not kidding. Our washer and dryer seem to run 24/7/365. I've completed various repairs on both appliances over the last couple of years and saved 100's of dollars thanks to this site .

Watched on-line video, then applied those steps.
1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips;
2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch;
(Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.)
3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening;
4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it;
5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel;
6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel;
7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front;
[While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.]
8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.);
9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary;
10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip;
11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel;
12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver;
13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley;
14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum;
15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley;
16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing;
17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.

remove the top and front of the dryer, then removed the idler assembly. This enabled me to rimove the belt form the drum and replace it and the idler assembly. Not difficult at all.

Unhooked power,shut off gas, pulled top cover off,two Philips screws one on each side hold the front panel in.took belt off, pulled drum,than change out, flame sensor,M coils,and igniter,be careful igniter breaks very easy,I broke my new one so had to use my old one so really the problem with no heat was either the Mcoils or the flame sensor

Found the promblem as described at this site while looking for diagrams for the dyer. Repair went as described. Once I removed the old upper drum glide I used acetone to remove old glue. Cleaned up fast and easy. Once installed I let cure for about an hour and then reassembled. Let it cure for about an hour more and then I used the dyer. I could feel that the gap around the front of the drum was again narrow so that my finger tip would not slide into a grove. So far so good.

First I pulled up on top panel. Next I removed the two screws holding on the front panel on. Next I pulled forward and front panel pulls out. I cleaned the old upper & lower drum glide & drum seal using a razor blade. I used the high temp glue that came with the top glide. I glued them both on & let sit for about half hour. While the glued dried I installed new belt & belt idler pulley. I re-assembled the front panel while lining up the drum. Re-installed the 2 screws. Snapped the top panel back in place. Plugged it back in & turned it on. Awesome noise was gone & working great.

I first diagnosed the problem using a Google search. Amazing how many hits I got and after reading a few was pretty certain what the cause was and what parts I probably needed to make the repair.
Some of the articles I read had links or mentioned PartSelect, so I searched for my model # and found the parts I would probably need. Knowing that I could probably get the parts I needed I disassembled the dryer (pretty easy really) and removed the old suspect part. It was devoid of lubricant and the bearing and ball showed some wear so I ordered the Bearing Assembly suggested by PartSelect (the illustrations looked just like my old parts). I left the dryer disassembled while I waited for the part, figuring it would take a week or so to arrive.
Much to my surprise, the part arrived three days later and after cleaning the dryer innards of all collected lint I put it all back together in 30 minutes.
So for a little research, a $30 part, and about an hour of my time, I have a clean and quiet operating dryer. I see no reason I can't get another 10 or so years out of it.
I consider myself a reasonably handy guy but had never worked on a dryer before. I'll be unlikely to ever call a repairman without first doing some investigation and seeing if the parts are available. With the internet and PartSelect I think I could take on a lot of other repairs I'm not familiar with. Thanks for a great outcome this time around.
Kevin

I popped the top lid of the dryer which has hinges in the rear allowing it to be lifted. This exposes the drum. The front panel then can be detached using a nut driver and phillips screwdriver. The door shut off switch must be then removed so the front panel can be pulled away. I used an adjustable wrench to remove the lock nut. Once the front panel is clear of the drum, the felt and nylon glides are exposed. I removed the felt using a paint scraper, and cleaned the adhesive residue with lacquer thinner. The provided high temperature adhesive was then applied, I waited a minute per the directions, then applied the new felt and glides. The dryer reassembles in reverse of the above disassembly, making sure not to forget to reinstall the door switch. I plugged the dryer back in, and ran a load of laundry in quiet efficiency. Your part arrived quickly, the directions were good, and the dryer now works wonderfully.

Cover of the dryer pops off and hinges back. Use a flat screw driver to pop the clips on the front sides. Two phillips head screws hold the front panel on. Remove them then lift the panel off the clips at the bottom. Two phillips head hold the Ignition Coil bracket in place. Take note of the direction of the cable connection, it's not marked. Dryer would ignite intermittently. Clothes were not dry after 1 hour.

I took the new screen out of the box. I removed the old lint screen from the dryer, and I put in the new screen. Real simple!

All I had to do was pop in the new door catch. Works perfectly.

Unplug dryer.
Put up the top of the dryer at the front, remove 2 screws holding the front of the dryer to the sides and remove front of dryer. Locate ignition coil on lower left. Remove 2 screws and bracket over the two ignition coils. Replace coils and reassemble in reverse.
Everybody's happy.