8241RA Magic Chef Cooktop - Instructions

To get to the switch I had to remove the knobs and the front panel of the burner valves. There were some dozen screws, top and bottom holding the panel in-place.
The switch slid off the burner valve stem easily but removing the wires I had to pull with the pliers. There seamed not to be a wire release that I could see.
Replacing the wires was no problem. They slid into place by just pushing them in. Assembly was the reverse.

The flame holder twists about 1/2 inch to left and lifts off. I removed the two screws that holds the igniter on and removed it and installed the new igniter.
There was one complication: when I put it back together, there was no spark. I removed the ground wire and cleaned and scraped it and replaced it and still no spark. But, for no apparent reason the spark returned and has been okay since.

I used the other good burner assembly to isolate the problem to the igniters or the igniter block. I ordered both parts from Parts Select. They shipped the parts promptly and after 10 minutes of install time, the burners worked flawlessly.
Thank You Parts Select.

Shut off gas supply
Pulled stove away from wall removed spark ignigtor box .
Installed new one .
No problem.
Good for another 10 years

I pulled out the gas range, unplugged the unit from the outlet. Unscrewed about two panels, one is the black cardboard panel located on top, then the aluminum main panel.

Located the spark module, unscrewed the unit from resting plate. Did not change the plate, although the new unit came with a new one, but it doesn't fit. So I just rested the new one on the old plate.

Pulled each wire slowly out and inserted it onto the new spark module.

Screwed in all the panels back and returned the stove to its proper place.

The range now works as well as the oven, but my broiler still does not light up.

Easy repair. I removed the module housing at the back of the stove (two screws) and slipped the wires off the old spark module (I had to use pliers to gently pull one or two wires off--it's an old stove). The existing wires slipped right on the new module. I did have to use the mounting adapter that came with the kit, but that was the fiddliest part of the whole repair. It took me longer to move the stove out and back than it did to do the repair.

Simply remove the box containing the two right burners. Access the igniter by removing about 8 screws and pull the coupler for the igniter off with a pair of needel nose pliers. Replace with new igniter using the same tool. Re-assemble the box by screwing in the screws and give it a try. Worked great. Once slight hitch, be sure you don't leave a second screw driving in the box. As it will raddle. So I had to remove and reassemble twice. I'm not a surgeon! Thanks for the fast delivery!

Removed grill and set aside, then removed burner with a 1/4 counter clock twist. Removed ground wire and igniter wire from burner. Set to side in order taken off. Remove the two screws on the panel that is on the back of the unit and slide it up and set it aside. Removed screws from side decorative panels each side (one top and one bottom) and slide panel toward the rear to remove from notch slot. Then removed the two screws on each side and back to remove top of range. On the side there are two screws together towards the rear, the one towards the front of the range need to be removed. Then removed four screws that held the pan under the range top that were screwed into the gas line supports. Then removed the two screws from rear that held the pan in place. Remove the pan and set aside. Lift the right gas line burner support up. Remove ground bottom, hot wires upper and igniter wires from spark module. Pop module out and replace with new one. Reverse process to complete repair. Cause that the wires do not get under the pan when reinstalling same

Watched u tube video as supplied and followed instructions. Had trouble getting burners off so cleaned around edge of burners with fine bladed knife as suggested by other forum user and used oil filter type wrench to remove burner. There are three bumps on burner that hold it in place so need to turn anti clockwise to remove.

The burner was leaking a rust colored dirt and shooting flames all over the place. The top came off and I needed channel-locks to get the bottom half out. The wires were hard to get off and I broke one connector off so I soldered the wire on to the new part which fit the stove top perfectly. It still took less than a half hour to replace. Without problems it should take about 5 minutes.

The old burner head had corroded allowing gas to come out at the bottom. The actual replacement is just turning the head, lifting it out, transferring two wires with slip-on connectors from the old burner to the new one, and dropping the new one in place. Most of the time was spent sanding away corroded metal on the base to make a good fit. The information on the burner head says that the company has decided not to use a gasket under the head. I suggest that was a bad decision.

Counterclockwise turn old burner to remove. Unplug attachment wires. Replug wires place back in place turn clockwise. Done.

1. I accessed the burner ignition switches by lifting off stove top, sliding off burner knobs and oven knob, and removing the front switch cover (secured with 4 screws on top and 2 screws underneath).

2. I diagnosed which switch was broken: all four switches are wired together, so one faulty switch will affect sparking on both the left and right sides of the stove. I suspected a particular switch because that burner had occasionally struggled to ignite in recent weeks and felt "loose" when turned on.

After unplugging the stove from the electrical outlet and turning on the range fan, I slid several of the switches off their gas valve stems. When comparing the suspect switch to two other switches, the suspect switch felt "loose" when rotated and didn't have the same places of resistance that the other two had.

Feeling more confident that I had found the broken switch, I used pliers to pull out the four wires connecting the suspect switch to the other switches -- it took a good bit of force, there's no convenient release. Now I could access the switch terminals, so I used a multimeter to confirm that the suspect switch didn't have any change in electrical resistance when turned on/off -- it was broken.

3. I removed the broken switch and wired its neighbors together. I plugged the stove back in and checked that this had solved the problem -- no more continuous sparking, and the other three burners still worked.

While I waited several days for the replacement switch to arrive, I reassembled everything besides the broken burner's knob (to remind me to not use that burner), and continued using the other three burners normally.

4. When the replacement switch arrived, I inserted the original four wires into the new switch's terminal holes in the original configuration (again, it took a little force), reassembled everything, and was good to go.

Easy, removed from box, put in place on range. Happy customer. Good company to find exact replacement parts.

I replace the igniter first that didn’t work so I had to order the wiring and then I replaced that there was a cover that I took off with a screwdriver took the wiring off and put the new wiring in it it was that easy.