7744A Norge Dryer - Instructions
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noise, shaking, from foreign object in the blower, from operating without the lint filter
Lint filter replacement is routine maintenance. operating without a filter causes problems, a dryer sheet was sucked thru the opening and into the blower wheel, causing a lot of noise, and shaking because of the unbalance. I popped the top of the machine up, removed two screw holding the front in place, removed the front, gaining access to blower.
Removed the offending sheet, straighted the bent fin, and put everything back together again. Installeed the new filter, now it runs smooth, and quiet. mission accomplished.
Removed the offending sheet, straighted the bent fin, and put everything back together again. Installeed the new filter, now it runs smooth, and quiet. mission accomplished.
Parts Used:
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Charles from Gettysburg, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Dryer produced no heat
Checked the voltage to the high limit switch. Found that the element was bad. Ordered the part from partselect.com. and received the part in two days. Unplugged the unit, pulled the lid on the dryer, used the 5/16" nutdriver, removed 3 or 4 screws, pulled out the old and installed the new. Saved a $100.00 service call from the repair man! Novice in home improvement can do this. Thank you Partselect!!!
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George from Brookville, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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The female catch in door was bro9ken
I took out the old worn out part and replaced with the one I order.
Parts Used:
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JOSEPH from ANSONIA, CT
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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replace door closer
Removed power and front panel, removed broken latch, pushed in new latch and replaced the front panel and power. Done
Parts Used:
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Erwin from Somersworth, NH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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dryer door would not close
discovered it was a broken latch. Ordered the latch, only took 2 days to arrive and all I had to do was remove the broken latch and snap in the new one. I saved myself a service call. I'm very happy!!!!!!
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Priscilla from Portland, ME
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Clothes dryer drum would not rotate
Disconnect the power and gas supply so that you can slide dryer out and into an accessable area to work comfortablely. Removed top and front of dryer. When disconnecting numerous wires from the top controls, draw a simple color coded diagram for reconnection before you disconnect those wires. After removing the top and front, take out the drum and clean all the lint, money etc. out of the normally nonexcessable area of dryer. Place new belt on as you replace the drum. This takes two people; one to hold the drum in position and one to carefully work the new belt into place. Rotating the drum by hand will assist in the placement of the new belt on the drum. After reassembling the newly cleaned dryer it was a pleasure to try it and find a dryer that worked better than during its pre-repair use and it saved us the price of a repair call or a new dryer.
Parts Used:
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Kenneth from Leaf River, IL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
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dryer is heating but the drum is not moving
first, i read all the comments on this web site as well as other web site. sooner i confirm the problem is the drum belt, i order the parts.
my kemore model front panel is one piece. so i have to lay down the dryer and open the front panel on the top. The instruction sheet sent with the belt is very good, so it does not take too much time to replace the belt, the challenge task is to reconnect the front panel to the side panel. I spend too much time trying different way to use the fastner hook to connect panels without realizing that the hook is broken. stupid me. i later have to use the wire to connect the front panel to side panel. overall, i am very happy i fix the dryer.
my kemore model front panel is one piece. so i have to lay down the dryer and open the front panel on the top. The instruction sheet sent with the belt is very good, so it does not take too much time to replace the belt, the challenge task is to reconnect the front panel to the side panel. I spend too much time trying different way to use the fastner hook to connect panels without realizing that the hook is broken. stupid me. i later have to use the wire to connect the front panel to side panel. overall, i am very happy i fix the dryer.
Parts Used:
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jenny from Lisle, IL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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The drive belt broke in half.
With no experience repairing appliances, I did figure it out that the drive belt was broken since the motor was running and the drum did not turn.
What to do? Start looking for fasteners! I knew I had to get to the drum, but there was nothing up front, on top, or bottom that gave a clue. Only the back panel had hex head steel screws. I removed them and the panel. Then I removed a tube that pulled air from the drum to the outlet. I saw some screws holding the back of the dryer top. After removing them, the top popped off by pulling it up and releasing the attachment at the front.
This gave me access to a couple of screws holding the top of the front (holding the door). It seemed to make sense to lay what was left of the dryer on it's back. After removing the last two screws at the top corners of the front panel, I pulled it up and removed it. The drum lifted right out. The belt tightener was loose and lying against the back wall.
The local Sears did not have a replacement belt and their web site was not that helpful or forgiving. A Google search revealed a site called PartSelect. It had a very useful search routine which led me to make a purchase on a Saturday evening. The belt arrived at my door on the following Tuesday! Be sure to look at the instructions that come with the belt, it will demonstrate how to fish it through the loose belt tightener.
In about 1.5 hours the dryer was back together and doing it's thing. There were two additional screws left over, but I figure that's a manufacturing defect.
I was a hero to the wife, as usual.
What to do? Start looking for fasteners! I knew I had to get to the drum, but there was nothing up front, on top, or bottom that gave a clue. Only the back panel had hex head steel screws. I removed them and the panel. Then I removed a tube that pulled air from the drum to the outlet. I saw some screws holding the back of the dryer top. After removing them, the top popped off by pulling it up and releasing the attachment at the front.
This gave me access to a couple of screws holding the top of the front (holding the door). It seemed to make sense to lay what was left of the dryer on it's back. After removing the last two screws at the top corners of the front panel, I pulled it up and removed it. The drum lifted right out. The belt tightener was loose and lying against the back wall.
The local Sears did not have a replacement belt and their web site was not that helpful or forgiving. A Google search revealed a site called PartSelect. It had a very useful search routine which led me to make a purchase on a Saturday evening. The belt arrived at my door on the following Tuesday! Be sure to look at the instructions that come with the belt, it will demonstrate how to fish it through the loose belt tightener.
In about 1.5 hours the dryer was back together and doing it's thing. There were two additional screws left over, but I figure that's a manufacturing defect.
I was a hero to the wife, as usual.
Parts Used:
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Stephen from Cincinnati, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver
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3 wires came loose from switch was twisted to connect.
It should have been easy but when some wires (3) came loose when I moved it to install it, I had a problem. The video that was run at a higher speed and too close up images you could not see which wire went where. Contacted Part Select and received no answer, so I tracked the wires down as much as I could on an old wiring diagram and hooked them up. I then connected the power, stood back and watched the switch smoke and blow circuits. No why to find the correct color wire to what part so I ended up having to buy a new dryer. Part Select has only sale people so don't expect help if something goes wrong. Good Luck
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Chuck from GRANTS PASS, OR
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
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broken drive belt
Remove back panel, looking for access. upon reassembly dropped socket into lint trap. Dissemble again, also dissemble lint trap ducting, found it almost completely blocked by lint, clean and reassemble. Remove front panel and there is the problem of the broken belt. Try to look up online to no avail because I didn't have the proper machine ID, but I did find out where to look. Now with the right info ordered the part. Received in the post about 5 days. Upon reassembly I realized that the adjustor was laying in the bottom, picked up, cleaned inspected, OK, then needed to figure out where it goes, got it, then to figure out how it holds tension on belt. That took a few minutes, well maybe 10 then the old Ford light bulb came on, then installed the belt and adjuster. Replace front panel, slide back into place, hook up wiring and duct. Test, guess what folks it works.
Parts Used:
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terry from allenton, WI
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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The Drum Stopped turning
I yanked up the front of the lid, the broken belt laid across the drum like a dead snake. Pulled that out, then removed the two screws holding the front. Using the pliers, pulled off the two wires snapped to the door switch.
Lifted out the front panel, and lifted the drum, (added a bit of a yank to get it out of the two rollers in the back).
Vacuumed out the dust and dead bugs, then tried to figure out how to thread the belt on the idler and motor. (This was the hardest part) the picture that shows the parts is an exploded view, and does not show the way that it goes together. After about half an hour, I asked for help, and we found a slight rubbing on the idler and figured out that the tensioning spring pulls on the lower part of the idler arm, not the top. Putting the belt on, and getting the spring into the hole in the base was tricky, but not hard. Reassembly was straightforward, and took less than 5 minutes. (put in the drum with the belt on it, hook the belt on the motor and idler, push the rear of the drum into the rollers, then put on the front panel, re-attach the door switch, and the two screws holding the front, and close the lid).
Lifted out the front panel, and lifted the drum, (added a bit of a yank to get it out of the two rollers in the back).
Vacuumed out the dust and dead bugs, then tried to figure out how to thread the belt on the idler and motor. (This was the hardest part) the picture that shows the parts is an exploded view, and does not show the way that it goes together. After about half an hour, I asked for help, and we found a slight rubbing on the idler and figured out that the tensioning spring pulls on the lower part of the idler arm, not the top. Putting the belt on, and getting the spring into the hole in the base was tricky, but not hard. Reassembly was straightforward, and took less than 5 minutes. (put in the drum with the belt on it, hook the belt on the motor and idler, push the rear of the drum into the rollers, then put on the front panel, re-attach the door switch, and the two screws holding the front, and close the lid).
Parts Used:
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David from Huntsville, AL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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dryer belt replacement
I googled 'replace dryer belt' and found instructions on the 'Virtual Repair Man' web site. After reading the instructions through twice I began.
First I removed lent filter and removed the two screws that hold the lent body in place. I rotated the top panel up and back and leaned it on the wall; proped up the dryer drum with some scrap wood pieces; rotated the front panel of the machine out enough to slip the new belt, groves down, around the drum; reinstalled the idler pulley under the drum; raised the drum slightly and reattached the front panel. Reattached the top panel and replaced the filter. Did a test run and worked good.
I got a price from Sears for the part and they were asking $45 just for the belt. I saved enough in parts and labor to take my wife out for a real nice dinner. thanks
First I removed lent filter and removed the two screws that hold the lent body in place. I rotated the top panel up and back and leaned it on the wall; proped up the dryer drum with some scrap wood pieces; rotated the front panel of the machine out enough to slip the new belt, groves down, around the drum; reinstalled the idler pulley under the drum; raised the drum slightly and reattached the front panel. Reattached the top panel and replaced the filter. Did a test run and worked good.
I got a price from Sears for the part and they were asking $45 just for the belt. I saved enough in parts and labor to take my wife out for a real nice dinner. thanks
Parts Used:
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John from Philadelphia, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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drum not turning
Took the top off then front off of the dryer with just 2 screws( thank god not the back) and replaced the belt...had a difficult time getting the tension pully in place, belt kept falling off..the stop screw for the tension pulley was bent ,so had to replace that first.
Parts Used:
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Allen from Key West, FL
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
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dryer belt broke
Dont go in through the back!! Take the top off then the obvious steps to get to the drum and belt. On the kitchen aid model at least I would advise to make all the hassel of replacing the belt well worth your time to go ahead and buy a new tension pulley with the wheel on it as opposed to the all metal tension pulley. My dryer is much more quiet now and seems to be more efficient.
I waited a two days to get my belt then deciced to get a new tension pulley. Ordered it one day and the next it was at my door. This was well worth my time and effort. Thanks PartSelect!!
I waited a two days to get my belt then deciced to get a new tension pulley. Ordered it one day and the next it was at my door. This was well worth my time and effort. Thanks PartSelect!!
Parts Used:
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MATT from HIGGINSVILLE, MO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Broken belt
Pry up front of top and lay back. Remove two 1/4" srews at top corners. The front of dryer will then swing to the right. The drumb will lift out easily. Remove broken belt. Inspect the drum rollers on the back wall. Replace if loose or not turning. Mine needed replacement. The assembly part is not easy. You need the drum in place and after it is in place you can't get the belt on. After 8 tries I got smart and made a prop to hold the idler pully up, then put the belt in place and let the pully down slowly. It worked! Put the front back on and the 2 screws and pop the top back down. Also it is a good idea to unplug the electric cord and turn off the gas (if app).
Parts Used:
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Michael from Woodbury, MN
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver
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