7368A Norge Dryer - Instructions

Removed the two screws at the back that hold the top of the dryer. Then I pried off the top at the front by inserting a screwdriver into the front to remove the top from the clips. Then I tilted up the top like a car hood.

I removed the two screws inside that held the front on and lifted the front off. Because of the wires attached to the front, I made sure to turn the front aside without pulling on the wires. After removing the broken belt, I put the replacement belt over the front of the drum, lifting the drum a little. Then I threaded the belt over the drive and around the tension wheel per a diagram I found on the web.

While I had the front off, I removed the lint trap and cleaned out probably decades worth of lint.

Then I replaced all the parts in reverse order, plugged it in and had a working dryer!

I pried the top of the dryer with a screw driver and then lifted the top of the dryer, I then removed the two screws "with a nutdriver" that held the door in place and then removed the door and drum. I then got the new belt and placed the belt over the drum and positioned the belt through the idler arm and then on the motor pulley. I had to hold the door and drum to lock the bottom of the dryer door to the dryer and then made sure the rear drum seal was in place and the belt did not slip off the motor pulley

This Was pretty simple, removed the old broken screen. There are two torque screws on the outside where the bottom of the door is, I removed them so I could move the screen on the inside so I could clean out the excess lint. vacuumed out the lint, tightened the screws back in and slid the new screen in and it was done.

The dryer was not difficult to repair. The diagram that came with the belt made the repair easy. The repair part came in a very timely manner.

I replaced it

I took the back of my dryer off to see if the problem was there. I saw that the belt was broken and laying on the inside of the dryer. Took belt and went on line (Google) my KitchenAid Dryer from it's model number. The website was PartSelect. Found the belt I needed and saw a video on how to replace the belt. I called to order the belt and spoke to Steve, which help me with all my needs. Steve knew just the belt I was looking for and placed my order. The belt arrived a few days later. While I was waiting for the belt to come in, I removed the front of the dryer and get ready for reinstall. It took me about 15 minutes to install the belt and put the front of the dryer back together. I found PartSelect to be very helpful and saved me, maybe $150.00 by not having to call a serviceman to do the easy replacement. Thank you Steve and PartSelect, now I'm number 1 with the wife again.

I watch the video and played it again while I was working.
I am a 54 year young woman and I did it.

Pull dryer out from wall about 6 to 8 inches step 1 - romove front/bottom access panel. Step 2 - remove lint trap and remove 2 screws (philips type) that is under lint trap door. Step 3 - push in 2 wood shime in front edge between lid and front panel (angled shims like door shims - a putty knife will work to, just be carful not to scratch finish) step 4 - fold lid upward and back (like on a hinge) step 5 - looking from where the bottom/front acces panel was losten 2 screws - one left one right about 3 turns - 9you can remove them it just makes it easier to reinstall the front panel. Step 6 - find appropriate pot or stacked 2 x 4 pieces - something to hold up the drum when you remove th front cover, and from underneeth support the drum. Step 7 - look thru bottm front access hole - there are 2 springs that come down from the door - and clip onto the frame of the fryer - unclip them and place on the side. Step 8 - remove 2 upper screws that hold front panel on, and remove front panel, if you left the bottom screws attached but loosened you have to lift up on the front panel a bit. Step 9 - looking from the bottom thru where access panel was - you will see motor on right with a additional roller (tensioner) - push upwards on tensioner to relieve pressure on motor and pop off belt (remember where tensioner is and how it clips in to base. Step 10 - work belt off of drum towars front - to remove it all the way you will have to lift up the drum slightly off of the pot or whatever you used for support so the belt can clear. Stem 11 - new belt goes on the same way you took to old one off - plat side away from drum with ribs against drum. Step 12 - again lift up on drum and work belt back on. Step 13 - tricky part is how to get the belt back on the motor - prentend you are threading a needle wht a folded over piece of thread - hold the belt with about a 4" loop with your left hand - hold up on tensioner and feed it back thru and work belt back over end of motor pulley, after front panel is back on with the 4 screws tightened spin the drum and make sure belt is between the 2 lines marked on the drum and remove the pot or whatever u used to prop up the drum. Dont forget to attach the springs for the door assemble all other components in reverse order. And dont forget to take the pot back out

I removed the lint trap then the dryer cover from top and front side. I placed the belt around the dryer drum being sure to put it on the correct side with the grid side against drum. I coiled the belt around the pulley and motor tract. Replaced everything in opposite order in which it was removed.
Video from website was very informative and helpful. I was able to follow along step-by-step to replace the dryer drum belt. I am officially a do-it-your-selfer!!!

I googled 'replace dryer belt' and found instructions on the 'Virtual Repair Man' web site. After reading the instructions through twice I began.

First I removed lent filter and removed the two screws that hold the lent body in place. I rotated the top panel up and back and leaned it on the wall; proped up the dryer drum with some scrap wood pieces; rotated the front panel of the machine out enough to slip the new belt, groves down, around the drum; reinstalled the idler pulley under the drum; raised the drum slightly and reattached the front panel. Reattached the top panel and replaced the filter. Did a test run and worked good.

I got a price from Sears for the part and they were asking $45 just for the belt. I saved enough in parts and labor to take my wife out for a real nice dinner. thanks

Disconnect the power and gas supply so that you can slide dryer out and into an accessable area to work comfortablely. Removed top and front of dryer. When disconnecting numerous wires from the top controls, draw a simple color coded diagram for reconnection before you disconnect those wires. After removing the top and front, take out the drum and clean all the lint, money etc. out of the normally nonexcessable area of dryer. Place new belt on as you replace the drum. This takes two people; one to hold the drum in position and one to carefully work the new belt into place. Rotating the drum by hand will assist in the placement of the new belt on the drum. After reassembling the newly cleaned dryer it was a pleasure to try it and find a dryer that worked better than during its pre-repair use and it saved us the price of a repair call or a new dryer.

first, i read all the comments on this web site as well as other web site. sooner i confirm the problem is the drum belt, i order the parts.
my kemore model front panel is one piece. so i have to lay down the dryer and open the front panel on the top. The instruction sheet sent with the belt is very good, so it does not take too much time to replace the belt, the challenge task is to reconnect the front panel to the side panel. I spend too much time trying different way to use the fastner hook to connect panels without realizing that the hook is broken. stupid me. i later have to use the wire to connect the front panel to side panel. overall, i am very happy i fix the dryer.

With no experience repairing appliances, I did figure it out that the drive belt was broken since the motor was running and the drum did not turn.

What to do? Start looking for fasteners! I knew I had to get to the drum, but there was nothing up front, on top, or bottom that gave a clue. Only the back panel had hex head steel screws. I removed them and the panel. Then I removed a tube that pulled air from the drum to the outlet. I saw some screws holding the back of the dryer top. After removing them, the top popped off by pulling it up and releasing the attachment at the front.

This gave me access to a couple of screws holding the top of the front (holding the door). It seemed to make sense to lay what was left of the dryer on it's back. After removing the last two screws at the top corners of the front panel, I pulled it up and removed it. The drum lifted right out. The belt tightener was loose and lying against the back wall.

The local Sears did not have a replacement belt and their web site was not that helpful or forgiving. A Google search revealed a site called PartSelect. It had a very useful search routine which led me to make a purchase on a Saturday evening. The belt arrived at my door on the following Tuesday! Be sure to look at the instructions that come with the belt, it will demonstrate how to fish it through the loose belt tightener.

In about 1.5 hours the dryer was back together and doing it's thing. There were two additional screws left over, but I figure that's a manufacturing defect.

I was a hero to the wife, as usual.

Pry up front of top and lay back. Remove two 1/4" srews at top corners. The front of dryer will then swing to the right. The drumb will lift out easily. Remove broken belt. Inspect the drum rollers on the back wall. Replace if loose or not turning. Mine needed replacement. The assembly part is not easy. You need the drum in place and after it is in place you can't get the belt on. After 8 tries I got smart and made a prop to hold the idler pully up, then put the belt in place and let the pully down slowly. It worked! Put the front back on and the 2 screws and pop the top back down. Also it is a good idea to unplug the electric cord and turn off the gas (if app).

I yanked up the front of the lid, the broken belt laid across the drum like a dead snake. Pulled that out, then removed the two screws holding the front. Using the pliers, pulled off the two wires snapped to the door switch.
Lifted out the front panel, and lifted the drum, (added a bit of a yank to get it out of the two rollers in the back).
Vacuumed out the dust and dead bugs, then tried to figure out how to thread the belt on the idler and motor. (This was the hardest part) the picture that shows the parts is an exploded view, and does not show the way that it goes together. After about half an hour, I asked for help, and we found a slight rubbing on the idler and figured out that the tensioning spring pulls on the lower part of the idler arm, not the top. Putting the belt on, and getting the spring into the hole in the base was tricky, but not hard. Reassembly was straightforward, and took less than 5 minutes. (put in the drum with the belt on it, hook the belt on the motor and idler, push the rear of the drum into the rollers, then put on the front panel, re-attach the door switch, and the two screws holding the front, and close the lid).