7007B Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

Replaced new Lint Screen. Changed Frame with two phillips screws. Total time spent: 3 minutes. Two day delivery!

The first part was the most difficult-opening the front of the dryer cabinet! Once open, the new belt was installed and then the new idler pulley was put in-place. The cabinet was closed-job done.

2 screws (Philips) old one out, new one in, real easy..

All I had to do was take out two screws that held the lint screen frame into the dryer, vacuum the opening to get the lint out that had accumulated, place the new frame in the opening, tighten the two screws that hold it in place, insert the lint screen and it was done.

Easy, lint trap in front, unscrewed the old base, threw out the old lint screen which was hanging by a thread, and put the new (and - KEY WORD - cheaper) part in. All by Myswlf!

Thanks.

I love technology. First thing I did was google on "U-tube", "How to repair a squeaking dryer". Several videos out there so I just found the one I needed and watched. The repair itself went easy. A word of advice would be to be careful of sharp edges and to remember to unplug the machine prior to repair. While the drum is out, go ahead and get your shop vac and clean the inside of the unit out. Also, not only put grease on the new plastic holder, but put some on the shaft of the idler puller. I also used an awl to line up the holes on the front panel when re-installing the screws. One video I watched showed reaching in through the front to take the drum belt off the pulley, where another showed removing the inspection plate on the back. This made it much easier.

We had the rear drum bearing replaced about three years ago. The company that serviced it was quick to take our money for the diagnosis but took over a month (and a threat to call the better business bureau) to actually make the repair. This time I decided to do it my self as I had successfully replaced the the drum drive belt two years ago. The dissassembly was challenging but the repair it's self very easy. I opted to use nuts and bolts to attach the bearing assembly rather than the supplied screws as they did not want to tighten. Reassmbly was a bit of a challenge regarding the drum drive belt but I had the entire repair done in less than an hour.

There are really good instructions with photos on line - search squeeky dryer. I would add that it is easier if you mount the new bearing assembly on the drum before placing the drum back in the dryer cabinet. I guess this is obvious but was not stated in the referenced instructions. The round bearing slotts fairly easily into the plastic pillow block mounted on the back of the cabinet. Just make sure the small ball bearing remains in the center groove - lots of greese will help this.

Taking it apart was no problem other than having to remove solidified grease in order to remove bearing. Also I found it easier to remove belt by removing screws holding drum in place first. Putting it back together was more involved. Taping metal strip to back with scotch tape made putting in new bracket a breeze. Tipping dryer on its' back was the only way I could get the screw holes to line up when installing the drum. Removing the vent cover, and installing from the back, made re-installing the belt tensioner much easier.

This was for my Daughter's dryer. A helper really makes this quick and easy. First of all-UNPLUG the unit from the wall. I pried the top up with flat screwdriver. Laid the top back against wall. Removed the two wires from the door cut-off switch. Then removed the two screw attaching the front to the cabinet. Removed the small access panel on back of cabinet. Depressed the belt tensioner to release pressure on the leather drive belt. Went back to front, pushed the belt to the rear of cabinet, then lifted the back of drum to pop the bearing up and out of the plastic cup. I then tilted the drum forward and down and removed through front of cabinet. Reached inside the drum with Phillips screwdriver, removing the two screws to realease the bearing and BB bracket from back of drum. I attached the new bearing cup with BB to the back of cabinet, filling the cup with the high temp grease provided in the cup. Before installing the new bearing on the drum, I ran the new screws into and back out of the new bearing to cut the threads, making it easier to attach on the drum. I then put the drum back into the cabinet popping the bearing into the top of the plastic cup. Next I went to the back, put a bit of grease on the shaft that the tensioner bearing rides on. I re-set the belt on the tensioner, making sure the belt was back in the original position around the drum. I then re-attached the front cabinet centering the front of the drum on the felt. This felt supports the front of the drum. I manually gave the drum a few turns to make sure the drum was centered properly, and belt was mounted correctly. I then re-attached the two wires to the door switch. Slid the dryer into position, inserted the plug back into the outlet. Turmed it on, and now the dryer runs like new again. My Daughter is happy again. You will want to have a vac handy because it is unbelievable how much lint and dust are in the cabinet. I also took the filter bracket apart and cleaned it too.

I followed others instructions on this site to disassemble but felt confident since 2-3 years prior I had replaced the felt top/bottom guides around the drum and the drum belt. The video on this page is also helpful

1) Pop the top with a putty knife
2) Unscrew two screws that hold the front onto the dryer frame
3) Lift front from two clips at bottom of dryer
4) Release tension from belt (unscrew/remove rear access plate)
4) Lift drum up and forward out of dryer
5) Unscrew drum bearing 3x screws from inside of drum
5) Remove the drum bearing holder
6) Pre-thread the rear drum bearing!!! Very important. Thread by screwing a supplied screw slowly through the pre-drilled holes.
7) Attach drum bearing
8) Attach new rear holder/cup & ball bearing (ball bearing goes on outside of plastic cup)
9) Use lots of supplied grease, espeiclly helpful that it acts as a temporary glue holding the ball bearing in place
10) Reverse steps to assemble

I'm glad I bought the entire rear bearing kit as I found the bearing holder had completely worn through and partially melted the metal cup. The ball bearing was missing - gone!

Also found that the power cord had partially melted, so I replaced that from the hardware store. Scary.

I had trouble with the little piece on the back side of the dryer not lining up with the bearing housing. I also didn't see how the drum was gonna stay in place but finally realized the front cover lines it up. All in all it was awesome to get the part I needed so quickly and cheap, thanks a lot.

Followed the video on partselect web page.

First I have to say that the video on the Parts Select website was invaluable, it truly made the replacement a no brainer. The kit came with everything I need and was a great price.

Unplug the dryer, mine is a stackable so we had to remove the dry from the top of the washer. I then followed the instructions from the video. The only real difference was that my dryer is that is has dual direction tumbling, so there were 2 idler arms instead of one to move in order to un hook the belt. was pretty easy.

I only needed my husband's help a couple of times because 1. To get the dryer off of the washer. And 2. I didn’t have the reach to install the new bearing on the back of the drum.

Removed small panel from back of Dryer,and removed Idler Pulley Assembly. From the front,lifted the top of Dryer to get access to the drum,disconnected the two wires for the Stop switch, removed the four screws, two on each side,and lowered down the front panel. Now,removed old belt and installed new, installed new Idler Pulley Assembly,aligned belt with Pulley.Reassembled the front and the top of the Dryer and I was done.The pulley was squeaking,but a shot of DW40 took care the problem.
Thanks

Domenico Intrieri