66513792K601 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I found instructions on line when I goggled my dishwasher name and model number with the words noisy door. There were three or four good suggestions at a couple of the sites I visited. I tried applying vasoline, then silicone to the rope where it travels through the plastic guides but that just cut the sound down about 50%. My dishwasher has plastic guides that look like rollers but they don't turn, they are fixed in place. The ropes squeak as the pass over the guides. The replacement part kit has plastic guides that turn like wheels now so the rope does not drag over them and squeak. This repair could be done by me in 20 minutes or less every time now that I know what I am doing.

I removed the black bottom metal cover then turned the nuts on the adjusting (leveling) bolts to lower the front end of the dishwasher so I could pull it out of the cabinet. Once I lowered is as low as it would go I opened the door and pushed down on it which tilts the dishwasher down and you pull out on it and the top lip clears the cabinet. If your dishwasher just pulls out the first time you try these steps may not be necessary.
Once the dishwasher is out the guides and rope are down at the bottom in the front by the door. It's obvious what to do to replace them.

Pulled everything out the front, and dug down to find a thrashed chopper assembly (like a little garbage disposal). The previous owner just tossed anything in; pop tops, plastic cutlery, etc.
Didn't pay attention to the exact installation of the chopper as I pulled it out, but, it turns out that it only goes in one way.
Used pictures and instructions I found online as a guide and didn't have any issues.
Replaced the check valve because it isn't expensive and I was in the neighborhood.

Although the lower rack was a slightly different style than our original, it fit the dishwasher perfectly. We needed to transfer the silverware racks to the new rack and insert one set of removable tines. About 5 minutes and we are very happy with the repair.

1.Check the lines for any obstruction. Gunk can easily build up. I have used the dishwasher for approx. 10 years. I do rinse/scrap dishes prior to loading.
2. Drain all remaining water.
3. Unplug the dishwasher.
4. Grab a towel and proper screw driver. Unscrew the bottom protective plate. Remove the insulation plate.
5. The drain pump is located to the bottom left. Have your towel under it. Unplug it gently. Turn counter clockwise to remove.
6. Install the new drain pump (reverse order)
7. Return the insulation plate. Screw back the bottom protective plate.
8. Plug in

Just had to transfer all the kit parts from the old rack to the new one.
It was important to leave one side of the kit parts(the wheel and other plastic pieces) on the old one while transferring the other side of the kit parts to the new rack so that I had a visual reference for placement and orientation of the parts on the new rack.

The repair was really easy. First disconnected electricity staring with fuses and removing wires from dishwasher, then disconnected drain hose and water hose. Pulled it out and removed pump turning clockwise no need for tools and same way installed new one. Very easy

Remove upper tray and spray arm. Remove two screws retaining pipe for upper spray arm and overhead. Unscrew retainer on top of lower spray arm and remove. Gently rotate the upper feed pipe clockwise until pipe can be removed from lower pipe. You may then remove the lower pipe and bearing housing where the seal is. Reverse order for reassembly. I also replaced upper spray arm bushing. Very simple, remove one screw and the arm will come out.

very easy, thank you for your quick service

1) Remove the racks

2) Unattach the feed tube the runs from the bottom of the dishwasher tub along the back to the top (this is the grey plastic tube that the top rack sprayer plugs into). This is done by unclipping the tube in two places, one stainless clip is in the back of the tub and one stainless clip is on the top of the tub.

3) After the tube is loosened from the clips, give the tube a 45° twist clockwise (relative to the bottom of the tub) and then pull up. This should remove the entire feed tube and bottom sprayer assembly.

4) There are now 4 stainless steel torx screws visible on the bottom of the tube. Remove the screws using a torx driver. Remove the grey plastic "gear looking" piece that was held in by the screws by pulling straight up.

5) On the left hand side of the tub you will see one more (smaller) torx screw. Remove this screw and then with a pair of plyers, give the housing piece that was held on with the screw a tug straight upwards. There is a post sticking straight up that will help you do this.

6) The grinder assembly is now visible, and in my case, completely jammed with paper. Pull the grinder and screen out of the groove it is sitting in.

7) Place the new grinding and screen into the groove. The grinder blade will have to be pull back (toward you) so the grinder coupling teeth can properly engage with the motor coupling teeth. This may take some fiddling.

8) once the grinder is installed, reverse all the steps starting at step 5.

I removed the screws around iner door panel. this allowed me acess to the hex head screws holding the plastic
air inlet and replaced it. the small tabs on the ends of the old inlet had bent
up allowing the water to flow by

I looked up the most common problem with this model and it was the chopper assembly. I removed everything down to this. Sure enough, mine was broken off and the screen was completely clogged with debris. It was not difficult to replace, but it did take me a few minutes to slide it in to place. Ladies, you can do this. No need to call a repairman! Look up the repair manual and see where the assembly is. I had no idea it was even there. My dishes are spotless now.

Disconnect the water supply, the drain line, and the two screws that go up into the cabinet frame, then pull the dishwasher out from under the counter. Tip the unit onto it's face and the main pump/motor is facing up. Turn off the power then unplug the electrical connector from the motor. Remove the single bolt at the base of the motor then turn the whole motor ~1/4 turn counter-clockwise. A firm pull will remove the motor/pump at this point.
The new motor/pump has a new seal. See that the arrows on the pump volute and the motor frame are lined up before inserting into the housing. The new motor/pump slides into the housing easily and a 1/4 turn clockwise will pull it in tight. Re-install the locking bolt and revers the rest of the steps to get running again.

After replacing the door latch which was not faulty I learned fron a local appliance repair company the door was distorted as a result of an earlier failure of the cable assembly breaking. The door opened with such great force hiting my leg and apparently distorted the door or machine frame. The fix was to bundle a towel and place it between the door and dishwasher sides, one at a time, and forcing the door in a closing direction to bend the door and frame. After several attempts the door now closes well and remains shut during the cycle.

After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.

Actually, the repair was very simple because of the you tube video demonstrating the repair. This made the repair very easy. I repair/replaced both springs and links