5L45A Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

The old light fixture and socket were easily removed. This was done with the power connected, but I already knew the switch didn't need to be handled. The solderless connectors are all insulated, so I just had to be careful. The new socket would not accept the connector for the "hot" (red) wire in the fridge, due to a design change. This is, of course, why you furnished a loose 3/16 inch crimpon connector. Rather than cutting the red wire (remember, the power is still connected), I obtained an insulated 3/16 connector of the opposite gender, and a short piece of red-insulated wire from an old fluorescent tube ballast, and made a jumper. The connector I provided (male) did not fit tightly in the original fridge connector, so I put a layer of resin-core solder on my male connector. You need tight connections. If the solder layer is too thick, it's easy to file down. Make sure to heat the solder sufficiently that the solidified solder is shiny and not dull gray. I used a 100-watt gun. 20 watts would probably work too. DO NOT USE ACID-CORE SOLDER OR FLUX ON ELECTRICAL WORK! I knew the switch was good, because I had checked for voltage at the socket terminals using my voltmeter, before I ordered the socket. It read 120 volts every time the door switch was open, and zero volts every time the door switch was pushed closed. A simple voltage tester would work here, too. Be very careful if you do this test or this repair with the power connected to the fridge; there is considerable potential to find yourself touching 120 volts with one hand while your other hand is touching a perfect "ground". There doesn't seem to be any choice if you want to test the switch. You do have a choice with the socket replacement - - the jumper described above. If you're not going to use the jumper approach, cut the power! If you are going to make a jumper and are not comfortable working on a "live" circuit, cut the power.

My husband put in in, no problem and all is well. My husband is a mechanic for large machinery/motors so installation was no problem. Thanks, better than buying a new fridge!!!

The kit I recieved was perfect. All parts fit and where a perfect match. I will give you an A+ in handling my order and shocked by speed of your delivery.

The part could not be installed without home made angles which were attached to unit so that it would only protrude from back of refrigerator about 2" instead of 6".

Removed bad motor with socket set and pliers then removed the connectors from the old motor and soldered them on the new one. Then installed new motor. Works like new! Problem Solved! Easy fix!

Moved fridge out from wall, unplugged power cord. Laid on floor, removed 6 screws from cover. Removed one threaded bolt to allow assembly to slide out. Removed special nut, and took fan off. Removed 3 motor mounting bolts. Unscrewed 2 wire nuts, and untwisted wires. (option 1, no ground) Vacuumed entire area around motor. Used 3 bolts to mount motor to holder assembly, and special nut to install fan. Stripped wires back about 3/4 inch. Twisted two wires together CW, and installed new wire nuts. Slid motor assembly back into slot,(keep wires away from blades) and used one threaded bolt to secure assembly. Reinstalled cover plate with 6 screws. Plugged power cord in to test air flow (out through cover vents). Moved fridge back into place. The loud whirring noise did not stop for a day; then quiet!

I found the condenser fan was not working so I bought a new condenser fan kit and installed it. Fixed!

Well I could what laid on the floor and replaced it but I didn't I emptied refrigerator laid it over change the motor then stood it back up actual work about three hours

removed condenser fan -located behind refrigerator next to compressor, Not much clearance to work, there are 3 screws to remove from condensing motor,sounds easy but clearance is lacking to remove them ,(takes alot of PATIENCE). Then you have to remove the fan blades to be able to get clearance to remove motor!! I wouldn't reccommend trying this repair unless you are a pro.

The video of the repair is a helpful guide, but my refrigerator has the compressor very close to the condenser fan motor. With the compressor comes the copper tubing that is all in the way. I had to carefully bend them now and then to allow me to get my hands in position. The how to is easy, but the working with tools in cramped quarters was difficult. I think my Maytag side by side model makes for this job to be difficult, maybe yours may not be so bad. I took a couple of hours to complete. After the first hour, I covered the bare wires, and plugged the frig back in so it could do some cooling. I placed a small in front on the condenser to blow across it. Had a little break, then finished the job.

The refrig. Is about 30 years old. The new solenoid looked and mounted nothing like the original. I driled holes in the frig and attach the solenoid with sheet metel screws. There were not enough fittings and hoses so I bought a braded metal hose to attach the ro line and the valve inlet. I used the parts in the kit to attach the water feed line. To the ice maker I did not try to stuff all the hoses and lines back into the cramped cavity in the frig. W ell how does it look? The solenoid sticks out a little and there are a lot of hoses behind the frig. I do not spend much time behind the frig so who cares. The ice maker is making ice!

Pull box out ""unplug box"" empty frezer including storage baskets,place ice maker in off remove ice cube box, do not remove ice maker, useing nut driver loosen side rail screws about 1/4"slide basket rails in or out and pull to center of box should slip off screws, remove light bulb cover & bulb, remove 4 screws holding ice worm drive motor "" hold "" will fall it is atached to a electrial plug un plug and lay aside,unscrew back panle screws 4 left 4 right on back cover, " remove hiden screw at top center of back panel and pull up and pry out at bottom silde out downwerds,remove cross plates one center one bottom these hold defoster bars, unwind wires center defroster bar somewhat difecult bottom one just slide down unplug from panel at top behind where ice cube drive was located, replace new defroster assm reasemble defroster bars into cross bars wind in & plug up new wires behind cooling fins being carefule not to cut or nick wires of bend cooling fins replace screws,wires are 1 small plug 1 large,reinstall back panle top center screw first don't tighten aline side screw holes replace side screws then tighten top screw. Replace drive motor being sure to conect,replace bulb,bulb cover,side railes,bens,ice cube box & put ice maker lever in on poss. Plug box in weight 8 to 10 hours with box set at mfg 's starting settings. Should work like a charm.

My Son who is not an appliance repairman did it for me. He had some difficulty getting the nuts and bolts loose mainly. Sorry I'm not much help other than that! I would like to compliment you on your fast service, first time ordering from you and it was for an older model refrigerator that my repairman said he couldn't find. It's working fine now and I'm a satisfied customer!

First, watched video on Part Select Website. Very good. Pulled Appliance out from wall, Pulled the power plug, and removed the back shield covering the working parts of the unit. Found the fan and it was almost the same setup as on the video except that I could not get to one of the screws holding the motor in place so had to remove the entire bracket with the fan. Not too hard. Cleaned away dust and gunk around the site and noticed that the fan pulled air through a tunnel-like condenser coil that was packed with gunky lint...this is what probably killed the motor. I cleaned out the tunnel with the bottle brushes and vacuum and installed the new motor / bracket assembly. Then replaced the shielding around the fan and the back cover .panel. This is important because these form the channel that guides air flow throughout the condenser coils. This particular refrigerator has a barrier underneath which guides air flow from the front left to the condenser, through the fan, over the evaporator drip pan and out the right front. I cleaned all the lint and gunk from this area as well. I also made an air filter (cut from a furnace filter) and wedged it in front of the air entry section. This should keep the condenser coil cleaner over time but you have to remember to change the filter once a year. Probably should clean the condenser coil every 5 years as well. This unit has been very reliable over 20 years and may well go for another 20. Good luck with your repair.

I folded in half twice! and took the back off the fridge(cardboard) and took one brace off and just took the screws off the fan from the other two braces. Turned the fan enough to get at the wires for the fan and cut them off an inch from the old fan, stripped the insulation and wire nutted them to new fan. Make sure they don't interfere with the new fan and put the new fan in place put the screws in and we're making ice and cold fridge again.