Used a deep well 1/4" nut driver. Loosen 4 screws on inside of door and slip it up and off rack. Remove 2 screws on bottom of ice maker. Loosen top 2. Slip up of screws, unplug ice maker and remove.
After the original center crisper drawer slide rail broke and and second also looking in deep into your parts catalog I discovered that the refrigerator never came with a crisper frame brace from the store or factory. Thanks to you , I no longer have the use of the center rail breaking off for now everything is made out of cheaply make plastic by whirlpool.
Got the right part on the second try but am so happy I did it myself. Easy install 3 screws and a plug. A little hard to reach in bottom drawer freezer but making great ice now.
AS PER A VERY GOOD VIDEO I FOUND SIMPLY BY SEARCHING FOR THE PART NUMBER. IT MAY HAVE BEEN ON THIS SITE. SADLY, THE PUSHING ON THE CONNECTOR WITH THE 1/2" WRENCH LOOKED A LOT EASIER IN THE VIDEO, OTHERWISE EASY PEAZY AND I HAVE VERY PAINFUL ARTHRITIS IN MY SHOULDERS.
There’s moisture inside the refrigerator and there’s a section in the gasket that was broken.
Easily pulled out the gaskets off the refrigerator doors and replaced them with the new ones. The installation video was also a big help in the process.
I first removed the door to the freezer (my frig has a bottom freezer) by loosening the 4 screws and lifting the door up and off. Then, because I'm stubborn, I chose not to remove either of the basket/drawers. It took a little bit of effort to fit my arms/hands in there, but I was able to remove the bottom screw to the old icemaker, and loosen the two top screws. (And disconnect the wiring harness.) I could then lift the old icemaker up and off. Putting the new icemaker in was pretty easy-- just slide it down over the two top screws and connect the wiring harness. The hardest part was getting the bottom screw back in! Because I didn't remove the baskets/drawers, I had very little room to work, and I had to "feel" for where that bottom screw went (even used a little mirror to help me). I could have just left this screw out, as the icemaker was sitting in there quite securely. But I kept at it, and after about 20 minutes, I was able to line up the screw with the hole, balanced on the tip of the screwdriver, and get it screwed in. Total repair took about 45 minutes. And no more leaky ice maker!
I tested the ice maker first and got no response. So I bought the new ice maker and unplugged the connector in the back, loosened the 2 screws up top and took the bottom screw out. I took out the old one and then plugged the new one in and hung it back on the 2 loosened screws and put the bottom screw in and tightened the screws. I have to say it’s working great! Have plenty of ice again. Saved a lot of money by doing it myself. Buy your original model number part from Parts Select.
When right hand door was opened first, and then left hand door, the mullion rail did not move all the way to the "open" position so that if the left hand door was closed after the right hand door the rail would bang against the right hand door and not close all the way until manually pushed into pos
Remove the existing mullion rail:
- Remove the screw from the center hinged cover. - Remove the mullion rail by pushing upward. The top and bottom hinges slide over tabs attached to the door. I had to bump it gently from underneath. - Disconnect the three wire connector that's underneath the center hinged cover.
Install the new mullion rail by reversing the above steps: - Connect the three wire connector and snap it into its holder. - Slide the new part over the top and bottom hinges. Be sure that all three hinges are correctly lined up before sliding the rail over the tabs. - Push it down far enough that the hole for the screw in the center cover is lined up with its corresponding receptacle in the door. - Replace the screw.
Water not draining to pan. It caused an ice build up under the freezer draw
Remove the grate at the back of the refrigerator. Remove the existing drawn tube. Replace the exiting drain tube with the updated drain tube. Check to see if water was draining properly. Replace the grate. Sit back and have a beer.
The door switch was broken so the interior light would not come on.
The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!
I followed the video provided by PartsSelect and it was very good with almost every step you take. Pay particular attention to how the demonstrator stands relative to the frame and things will go a bit easier. There is one thing the video fails to do well and that is show you how the metal U-shaped rod is extracted. At best, the close-up gives you a clue rather than a sense of what is done and the verbal explanation of what it is you are trying to do with the screwdriver blade is unfortunately not detailed enough. I experimented as best I could with varying degrees of force and various positions but was taken by surprise when the rod suddenly was free and slid half-way out of the old frame. I still am not clear in my own mind what I did to free it, though I have my suspicions ;). Other than that step, the video took me through everything smoothly. One key - save everything from your old frame, you'll need it all!
I followed the video provided by Part Select. I also let the refrigerator stay unplugged overnight with all the doors open. This p-trap kit has fixed the leaks out of the front of the refrigerator. There is no ice build-up in the freezer. Perfect!
