5752 - Instructions

Slide out the old lint catcher, and slid in the new one, not that hard.

Removed the two screws holding the dryer door strike/locker assembly in place, removed the old and put the new in its place and replaced the screws.

The installation of the gas orifice was actually simple. Unscrew the old orifice and screw in the correct orifice. Tricky part of the process was accessing the area of the gas valve.

Followed video provided on site

FIRST REMOVED THE LID ON TOP OF DRYER.THEN THE CONTROL PANEL AND THE STEAM TRAY. HAVE TO UNCLIP TWO HARNEST CONNECTORS. REMOVED THE FACE PLATE THAT HOLDS THE DRYER WALLS TOGETHER ALSO REMOVE TO SENSOR HARNESS CLIPS. .REMOVED THE BELT FROM MOTOR. TOOK DRUM OUT . UNCLIPPED MOTOR COLLAR SNAP CLIPS DISCONNECT THE MOTOR HARNESS. INSTALL NE MOTOR AND CONNECT HARNESS INSTALL CLIP . REINSTALL DRUM AND PUT BELT ON. CONNECT HANESSES AND INSTALL FACE PLATE. INSTALL CONTROL PANEL AND THE TOP LID.

Slide out old filter then slide in the new one.

After trying duct tape to fix the tear, I decided to see if I could just order a new one. Part Select was the first company I found listed, so I ordered one. It was not expensive and it was delivered very quickly! It works so well s as me I’m a very happy customer!

Removed old lint filter inserted a new one.

I did as I was told (by my wife). Bought the machine from Home Depot - no side vent kit - had them complete the installation today when the kit came.

Screw driver, headlight lamp.. a lot of cursing lol it wasn’t too bad I just couldn’t get it in at first

I took the top off, I disattached the front and took the front top of dryer off, taking the front of dryer off, detached the belt and took the drum out, found the wheels took the plastic triangle off and took the wheels off and replaced wheels, then did everything in reverse and no more thumping. just remember to unplug unit before working on it. And also Part Select is a very good site and place to get parts, very fair priced and very professional.

I had ask how to get the top off., it was simple ,take 3 screws off the bottom angle bracket .and slide top back about 2" then lift.then remove the front panels. '

Practically got inside of washer. Had to remove a back screw, and use it in the installation. Lining up the screw hole was murder. Mrs. Patrick did repair and ordered part. Service from parts people got me pictures and the right part. FABULOUS service, LG was abysmal, told me wrong part. Two people at Part Select helped me, and sent pictures of part instantly.FABULOUS LILLIAN!!

Not knowing whether it was the pulley, tensioner, or drum roller I had previously pulled the dryer apart and noticed one roller shaft was rusty for some reason. When the part came in (which was quite fast)I disassembled the dryer to the point that I could remove the left rear drum roller. Replaced the roller and reassembled the dryer (to my surprise without any extra screws or parts left). Fairly easy job, just time consuming.

removed the top of the dryer first by removing screws in the back and pulling the top back and up. Removed the control panel, followed by the door. The front panel and top brace were then removed. The belt was disengaged by pulling the tensioner idler and working the belt off the motor pulley. The drum was lifted out and set aside with the other parts. Holding the motor shaft with vice-grip pliers, and turning the nut on the blower wheel (left-hand thread!)removed the blower wheel. The motor is held by snap-on retainers and easily removed and swapped. Installation is reverse of disassembly. While in there, cleaned out the lint gathered everywhere. Also constructed a heat shield out of aluminum flashing and foil tape to cover the foil and foam tape between the burner assembly and sheet metal side. The foam had actually burned at some point in the past and the flashing should act as a better heat shield. A relatively easy repair, but should not have been necessary in a 7 year old dryer.