5012 - Instructions

Removed 4 small star head screws from back of microwave, lifted body off, removed blown fuse and replaced with new one (found where cord enters). This model is stainless inside and out and I like it a lot. It is also sold by Daewoo and a few other manufacturers.

I mistakenly thought I had to remove the microwave to get to the back, not so. I would have had access to what I needed to unscrew; but I have to admit the hassle of taking it down and putting it back equals having to work on it attached to the shelf-your call on how you do this. I unscrewed the front top to remove the vent piece that is across the top front of the microwave. This will reveal the control panel screw. (While you have the vent removed you might want to clean the vent and the exposed filter.) carefully lift and pull out control panel. I unplugged a piece as the wires were tied tight. It will not completely detach, so carefully tip it back from exposed insides. The fuse is not clear but white with silver ends so look in upper right for it. I popped it out and replaced it. Replugged the wired part to cover and carefully fit tabs in and slide down to secre. Replace screw, replace vent piece and secure screws on top of microwave. I plugged it in to test before putting it back above my stove.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

The factory installed fill tube was formed and molded, hard plastic. Nothing like the replacement part or the one depicted in the install instructions.To remove it, I had to grip the exterior water tube module with a pair of Visegrip pliers, twist and pull as hard as possible, to expose a section of fill tube. I then had to cut through the tube with a hacksaw to remove the module and flange that secure it to the access hole. From the inside, I removed the ice maker and fan shield to expose the remaining section of fill tube. Using a section of copper pipe and a hammer, I was able to drive the tube through the back wall of the appliance. Fitting the new tube was easy. However, it is too short to reach the fill cup. I fashioned a section of the old tube to create an extension which I inserted in the new part. And, much to my surprise, it actually works!

Turn off power. unscrewed and removed the panel in the freezer compartment exposing the defroster(6 screws). pulled off the two defroster wires from their lugs. Removed the two plates (4 screws) holding the two heater elements. unsnapped the two heater elements from the plates. installed new heater elements. attached the plates.attached the two wires to the lugs.done

Removed existing and installed the new part. The hard part is reaching to the back of freezer as it not very wide and is farily deep. Hard to get to arms in at the same time.

Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is now running as it should.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

First I unplugged the refrigerator. Next item was the ice-maker; remove (3) screws and unplug it from the back wall. Third task is remove the (4) screws that attach the back wall of the freezer compartment. Lift the wall up enough to dislodge the center cooling shaft that the fan rides in and remove the rear wall. The last item is the fan motor which is attached to the freezer wall by (2) screws and (3) wires which are easily removed. Change out the motor and reassemble freezer compartment .

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Removing the old heater coil was a bit of a task as you need to take off all the brackets holding the heater coil and then remove the wiring from back of the coil. Installing the new heater coil assembly in the brackets and feeding the wirings back up to the top was a major task. Need to have long arms as the heater is located way back in the freezer compartment. The part was the exact match. The part was delivered in 2 days. Thanks alot. Will use your site again.

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Turned out the defrost heater has burnt out in the freezer compartment on both heater tubes. To get to it. 1) take out all the shelves 2)remove the light bulb 3)unscrew 6 screws for back panel 4)Mine had a lot frost build up on the evaporator coils which I used a portable heater to defrost. which it took about 2 hrs to get all the frost thawed out. 5) Defrost heaters are located below each of the coils remove 2 screws on each plate there are 2 plates holding the heaters in place. 5) You may have to bend the sheet metal in order to get the heaters out and trace the wires to where it connects to towards the top or the freezer. 6) Put in the new heaters and plug in then put back together. 7) I also replaced the Defrost thermometer which it is easy to replaced while I had it apart. Now the fridge works perfect just like new.

1. Removed food from freezer and unplug refrigerator or shut circuit breaker. 2. Removed freezer shelves 3. Unscrew all screws on inside back wall and removed back wall plate. Run a fan to defrost the coils. 4. Unscrewed 4 heater bracket nuts on front of cooling coils and removed heater elements. Mine were burnt so I knew I had the correct part. 5. Removed the heater wires from back panel. 6. Install new heater elements being careful not to leave oils from hands on glass tubes and connected 2 wires from heating elements to rear panel. Reinstall nuts to hold heater brackets. 7. Plug in and run refrigerator for 2 hours with doors closed. Remove upper rear panel on fresh food side then use a flat head screwdriver to turn red timer screw above refrigerator thermostat clockwise slowly until compressor shuts down. 8. Open freezer and waited a few minutes to watch defrost heater coils glow. If they don't glow you might need a new thermostat for the freezer which is located on rear panel or a new timer. 9. Unplug and reinstall rear panel and shelves. Plug in. It will take 24 to 48hrs. For temperatures to level out. Good luck.