41000129 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Pulled the lower left side end of the old door gasket out of door gasket retaining slot and slowly and evenly continued to work my way around the door pulling the door gasket out of the retaining slot until I reached the end. I installed the new gasket into retaining the retaining slot beginning on lower left side and then slowly and evenly working my way around the door inserting the new gasket into the retaining slot. I was careful to make sure the two cutout portions of the new gasket's retaining edge were correctly positioned in the lower corners of the door.

Shut off water, disconnect power,remove
Faulty valve,install replacement part.

We ordered our motor and pump assembly. When it arrived we followed the instructions that came with it. We had no problem with the instructions. We found it to be really easy. I was very happy since this happened 4 days before Thanksgiving. Thanks for the easy instructions, my husband got my dishwasher repaired in plenty of time for our Thanksgiving family get together.

remove water connection; shut off circuit breaker ; follow the suplied directions; reassemble washer . job done - leak gone. Wife happy.

Door seal was brittle and flat.
Not a hard job to do just having to keep making sure the seal did not pop out on the bottom corners of the door. The seal would tare easy so have to be careful. Before you remove the old seal on the bottom of door there is a 4 inch space between the ends of the seal. Mark the spot with marker so you know where to start placing the new seal.
Baffles were orginaly put in place with plummer putty, do not use this. Get GE clear seal is the best will hold forever but will come loose with a good tug. easy to clean out when replacing baffles again. Do not use any sealent when inserting the door seal just push into opening. Make sure you support the door when pushing down on door to put the seal in the slots.
The hardest part is the bottom corners the seal tends to slip out I found that if I streached the seal over the openings and continued on and come back to the corners it was easier to make the seal slip in.

I removed the dishwasher, removed the front kick panel, layed the dishwasher on its back, loosened the clamps and removed the old motor and pump assy. Cleaned up the area where the unit was, Installed the new unit, tightened the clamps and it was done. Probably took around an hour because of my cleaning up the sealing areas.

Had to remove entire lower unit from dishwasher but it is a tight fit between the pump inlet flange and the floor.The next problem was to get the E clip off of the valve shaft. I knew the E clip had to be a straight fit when put back on the shaft so I had to straighten out before putting it back on the shaft after putting the new seal on the shaft correctly.Put the solonoid back on and made sure the valve shaft turned freely. Next fun was getting the pump unit back in place. Not easy (clearance) but got-er done!

I removed the two screw at the top holding the dishwasher to the counter top; pulled on the unit - but found it stuck on something.
Of course the hot water feed and the drain hose were still connected and would not let the unit move out any further as there was no slack.
If I had thought about it - I would have disconnected these from under the adjacent sink. But I ended up lying on the floor trying to disconnect them from underneath the unit. It was a bit difficult as there was very little room to move the wrench and the screwdriver.
Once done, the unit came out very easily.
When tipped over I disconnected the old motor and replaced with the new. It was a very different design but fitted in very easily. The hanger took a bit of working out as the diagrams are not very clear.
The wires and clips went together easily. Once I had cleaned everything around the motor and the gunge that cames from years or washing dishes, it went back the way it came out. Albeit with the same difficulty with feed and drain hose.
We ran the unit with no dishes for a couple of times to clear our the muck left in the pipes when the system was down.
Now we have a fully functioning dishwasher again. Cost $250 for the pump and motor as opposed to the $800+ unit my wife was looking at!

Removed all 8 wheels and inserted the new one after inserting the axles into each wheel. Replacement wheels had a much better connection to the bottom rack and do not anticipate any problems in the future.

There was a video on the page as the part. Done in a flash. The axle was a little hard to get into the wheel so I soaked it in a little hot water and it whet in like a charm.

Installed new lower rack wheel kit

With coin, to remove the end cap from the front inside of the rail, insert the edge of the coin into the side of the end cap and push the coin to the rear while rotating the end cap to the inside of the tray until it comes free. Don't force. Pepeat for other rail. Repeat to reinstall end caps. You can can now slide out the the tray. Use long nose pliers to remove old rollers and insert new roller(s) on same prong. Do all 4. Reinsert tray and end caps.

Pulled out the top tray fully, popped off the end caps. Removed the tray and placed it on the cabinet top. Popped off the old rollers and snapped on the new rollers. Replaced the tray into the dishwasher, Popped the end caps back on and I was done.

Watched the video and swapped out the parts when they came. One of the arms that one of the rollers attached to was rusted and swollen had to remove the plastic coating and sand in order to get a good roller fit. Went super easy

Followed the very excellent instructions provided on website by Hotpoint/GE