4043 - Instructions

My suggestion is to replace all four rollers at the same time since they are all the same age. Fortunately, four rollers come in each pack you order. You need to remove the end cap on borh metal rack rods which takes a little doing. You cannot just pull the caps off. You need to twist the end cap to free up the little catch at the rear of the end cap. Once the end caps are off, just pull of the old rollers and install the new ones, replace the end caps and you're done.

The repair was as simple as it could be. The real story is being able to find and replace the missing wheels. Your website makes it real simple to find the proper parts, order them and receive them in a few days. Your parts person; Jason was very nice to send me a little note concerning my order. I appreciate that personal touch. I will be a regular customer with that kind of service. Well done/Good Job.
Bill

First I removed the four screws holding on two metal panels to gain access to the springs. Then I unhooked the broken assembly from the springs. Then I hooked the new assembly to the hinge. Finally, I reconnected the assembly to the springs. (I didn't have to unhook the assembly from the hinge because it had already broken off.)

This part must be one of those that commonly goes because I had replaced the other side about a year ago. The most difficult part a year ago was diagnosing the problem and figuring out how the pieces fit together. This now it was a quick repair because I knew exactly how to fix it. (And thanks to PartSelect for delivering the part in 48 hours even though I didn't pay for quick delivery.)

Looked up possible causes on your website. Website stated that more than 50% of time the cause was the piston and nut assembly. Removed the piston and nut assembly in bottom of unit behind screen on rear wall and saw that the gasket seal was completely gone . Ordered the part. took less than 10 minutes to install. Tested the unit and it drained completely. Thank you as i was looking at a more difficult repair if the pump had to be replaced.Repair cost less than $20.00.Before changing piston and nut assembly I cleaned the strainer and sump. disconnected drain hose and checked for blockage . i than checked your website that listed the piston assembly as the culprit more than 50% of the time. Thanks again

Removed the lower rack. Took off the old wheels. Put the axles on the new wheels which took a little manpower, but became easier once you did a couple (there are 8 wheels). Then snapped the new wheels on the rack which was really simple. The new design is much improved to the old one. The wheels glide better, then they ever did. We're sorry we didn't think of this repair years ago and the cost was a fraction of the cost of a new dishwasher.

installed new rollers per diagram then installed side ends into sides. Couldn`t have been easier. Dishwasher is like new now.

The new rollers snapped into place on the rack, by simply pushing them in. I was able to do it by hand, my wife could not do the same, so you might use some pliers.

I would like to start-off by saying that I love this site . I've never been even remotely dissatisfied with parts I've ordered and the installation videos are awesome! I would recommend this site to anyone looking to repair appliances. Secondly, I am a retired mechanical designer with over 35 years of experience. I have a broad range of design experience in consumer, governmental, industrial and military part and product design. My opinion about the design having to do directly with my appliance is not very high and after talking with another local parts supplier discovered that this particular design is approximately 20 years old. I wonder how many dishwashers are leaking without the consumer realizing they have this problem. I followed the installation instructions provided by this site verbatim and the dishwasher still leaked like a sieve. This in my opinion goes back to my remarks concerning the design. This is a weak design at best and could benefit from an improvement in that area. After I installed the new parts, the push on nut (upon being seated onto the shaft for the drain valve flapper) was loose and spun freely. The push on nut did not properly compress the seal onto and around the flapper shaft nor into the valve housing. Water leaked through the seal as a result. I disassembled all of the parts again and placed a flat washer between the push on nut and the seal, to help compress the seal onto the flapper shaft and into the valve housing. The washer was a stainless steel flat washer with an ID that fit onto the shaft closely, but was a smaller OD than the seal. The washer was about 1/32" thick. Upon reassembly and observation, the dishwasher leak was stopped with the addition of the flat washer and my issue was resolved.

My GE Potscrubber 940 would not drain on all cycles. After checking the basin traps and not finding any blockage in the water drain line, I suspected that the problem was with the drain solenoid, since the motor was running smooth. I removed the dishwasher, primarily by removing the water supply line on the left side from the water inlet valve and disconnecting the electrical connections. Make sure you turn off the water and electricity before you do any work on the dishwasher. With the dishwasher taken out and on its side, the drain solenoid unit will be visible near the motor in the middle assuming that the front bottom panel of the dishwasher has been removed. I found mine to be all crudded up. I removed the electrical connections and the solenoid bracket. Then by using my multimeter, I found a bad resistance reading (infinity) for the solenoid. I ordered the Drain Solenoid Repair Kit and replaced all the items except the plastic rocker arm. Naturally, just reverse your steps to get the dishwasher back together. Turn the water and electricity back on and fire her up. Check for proper operation and any leaks and you should be done.

Pulled unit out of cabinet took two top screws out of spinner spray arm and put back together.Old sprayer was plugged up not letting wash go through.Thanks for helping me fix and not replace unit.Saved at least 400.

Removed rack slide end caps. They broke off because of brittleness. Removed rack, then used pliers and/or flat blade screwdriver to remove 4 rollers and axle assemblies. Replaced with new rollers/axles. Return upper rack into slides and installed new end caps. New caps slightly different than old but easily clip into place Upper rack works lile new!

did it by hand, carefully flair out the plastic piece only enough to slide it into the metal rail.

Removed old basket, put new one in. New basket fits but it is larger then the old one so it takes up more room leaving less room for dishes. My dishwasher is apartment size.

Service from PartsSelect was very prompt.

Very simple repair: assemble the wheel/clip assembly. Attach to lower dish rack.

I was very happy with the fast delivery by PartSelect.

It turned out to be an easier job than I thought it was going to be. Of course, I was still a bit surprised it worked right and didn't leak once I was done.

I started by taking off the servo that opens up the drain valve. I didn't think I could take out and replace the shaft seal from this position so I took the whole motor and drain assembly out by loosening the sump and pump clamps. This allowed me to wiggle out the whole mechanism. One plug and a ground wire had to be undone but that was it. The Push On Nut was the worst part - pain to take off - worse to get a new one on. I wasn't sure (still not) if I could get it in the right place. Once I got everything back together and the servo mount on it seemed to hold the nut in the right place.

I tested it and yelled "it doesn't leak!" my wife promptly said "Yet!".

We have run the dishwasher twice - so far - no leaks!

I couldn't have done it with out PartSelect's prompt service, diagrams, and part photos. I don't want to fix any more appliances but if I have to PartSelect is where I'll come for parts and diagrams.