2883 - Instructions

order pcs fit perfect.

took off two screws that held the top part on took the screws that held the back on 4 screws removed the one screw that held the replacement valve put the black mounting plate on the machine replaced screws very simple.

The stove was older so the burner was hard to get out. The small screw heads broke off, so I had to carefully center punch and drill out the screw bodies. The igniter screw was also frozen in the pot metal burner. That screw requied drilling and tapping with the installation of a new 6-32 screw. Once the burner was refurbished, the igniter mounted easily. Afte attaching the gas line and igniter wire, the burner worked great.

Disconnect appliance from electricity source! Removed oven grates and the solid oven floor by removing the two screws and lifting up. Removed the piece of metal covering the oven igniter. Unscrewed oven igniter, snipped the wires close to the old igniter (read some of the better descriptions on how to do this). Reconnected new wires to the existing ones and used the ceramic wire covers that came with the new igniter and pushed the wires back through the opening in the rear of the oven. Screwed the new igniter in place. We actually had to unscrew the little metal box on the back of the oven to get to the wires which was easier to work there with connecting the wires. It was a little difficult reaching into the stove since we didn't remove the oven door.

Unscrewed the two screws that hold the water lines to the valve. Unscrewed and lifted the control panel, popped the two spring clips that hold the back panel against the housing. Pulled the valve just outside the back panel. Took off the internal water line and moved it over to the new valve. Took off both hot and bold electric plugs and moved them to the new valve. With the old valve off, I sled the new valve into place and screwed it to the back panel. Put the spring tabs back on the back panel and screwed the back panel back together. Plugged it in, attached the water supply lines and tested it. Worked fine.

we looked at the video first then my husband fit the proble boy! was i excited! all the stores tried to get me to buy a new one. thanks partselets!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The reason it took as long as it did was because the job is not in line as the work I normally do.
It would be a fairly easy job for an experienced repairman. (Taking the back off the washer was time consuming for me) The rest of the job was easy as the part was a perfect fit.
I remember having a problem blending hot/cold water for some time. Most recently, while washing a load the water did not want to shut off. I can't remember how I diagnosed the water not shuting off as a problem along with the water temp control, but it is now repaired.
With the new valve installed, water temp select is now OK and the water now shuts off as normal.

Removed the one remaining drawer guide and stared at it for 10 minutes trying to understand where it came from and how it worked. Looked it up on partselect.com. While there was no part number, the detailed photo on your web site was enought to assure me that you had the correct part. Ordered them in a few moments and three days later I had the parts. The hardest part of the job was trying to understand how to install the widgets. After 20 minutes to crawling around in the stove's inards, I finally got the "aha" and the drawer on this antique stove was finished. Thanks! Couldn't have done it without you.

Checked internet for possible reasons why oven would not heat.

Found Partselect.com website. Searched and found that ignitor was probably the problem.

Put in my oven model number and found ignitor. Ordered ignitor.

When new ignitor came in I simply removed two screws that held old ignitor and disconnected two wire.
Put new ignitor on, replaced screws and wires.

Repair done and oven works great.

I removed the broiler burner assembly held in by 5 screws across the inside top of the oven, as I removed the assembly the igniter slid out from the back of the oven and was attached to the assembly with a cannon plug, I disconnected the cannon plug and removed the whole assembly out of the oven and replaced the igniter which was attached by two screws and reassembled in the oven. Where I live in remote Alaska calling a repair technician is not an option, either figure it out or have a new appliance barged in.

Our original oven ignitor went bad. The gas supply won't even open, unless the oven senses the proper voltage / resistance across the ignitor, so that gas won't be flowing without ignition.

PartSelect was very good about providing me with the proper part, after I got the part number from their schematics and wiring diagrams, on the website. The first replacement part actually arrived, broken, from shipping, but when I called them, they immediately reprocessed the order, and sent me a new ignitor, to arrive the following day. I was very satisfied with their professionalism, as I've been in the past with them, as well.

On to the actual repair:

I removed the broiler drawer from the drawer slides, reached under the main oven chamber, unscrewed the two screws holding the ignitor in place, and cut / disconnected the two wires supplying the power to it.

I then put the new ignitor in place and screwed it back to the mount, used the wire nuts that came with the new ignitor to reconnect / splice the wires, and put the broiler drawer back in place.

Oven fired right up!

Entire process took less than 35 minutes. (Likely would've taken a bit longer, but this is the second replacement for the ignitor, since we've owned this oven, so I already had a good idea how to do it. (The first replacement for this particular part was NOT from PartSelect, so we're hopeful this one lasts a while longer than the previous one.)

Thanks, PartSelect!

Removed oven door. (Open to first position then lift the door straight up). Located igniter in bottom of oven, followed connecting wires to connection block below oven behind the oven drawer. Disconnected the existing wires. Lifted the burner out of oven to disconnect defective igniter. Screws were fused to the burner. Used vice grips to remove screws requiring the screw holes to be retapped. Bought new screws to replace trashed screws. Installed new igniter to the burner rail then set burner rail back in place. Fished the leads from new igniter back down to connector block. Reinstalled leads. Reinstalled oven door. Tested functionality of oven. Everything worked. Reinstalled metal plates back in oven. Reinstalled cover over connection block behind bottom drawer. Reinstalled drawer. With the exception of fighting with two screws fused to the burner rail it is a very straightforward repair and shouldn’t take much more than 1/2 hour.

no need to remover burner. Lift top up use a 1x4x5" to hold top up. Use short #2 screw driver remove screw and replace with new igniter

Slide out the old; slide in the new!

Removed screws on top of machine to remove the control unit out of the way. Then used large regular screw driver to pry out the two clips that hold the back of the washer tight to the top frame. This allows the back to come away from the machine enough to get the water inlet valve free. Didn't have to remove the bolts at the bottom of the back of the machine (they were pretty rusty) Just removed the single screw holding the water inlet valve in place, slid it down and away from the back cover and could fish it out to the side and disconnect the hose (with plyers) and slide off electrical clips (make a note of which clip goes to which valve.) I removed the part first so I could make sure I was ordering the right one. When the part came (very promptly by the way) it went back together easy. Only question was regarding reinstalling the wires since I didn't mark which way they went. I knew which one went on the Hot and Cold but didn't know if it mattered which clips went on each terminal. Figuring it was AC guessed it didn't matter so put it together the way the connectors seemed to want to lie naturally. Put it together making sure no hoses or wires where pinched or rubbing against sharp edges. Replaced the rubber washers in the hoses and made sure the hose connectors turned freely (they had been rusted a bit and didn't turn on the hose freely and I think this was the start of the cross threading problem) This time the hoses went back on very easily, screwed them hand tight not forcing anything at any time (DIDN"T USE PLIERS!). Tried water and no more leaks. Washer filled faster also, think this was because the screens on the water valve were plugged. I'll have to remember to take the hoses off and make sure the screens are clear every couple years or so. If you are having slow fills, suggest you check this first before tearing in to the machine.