253280528014 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

I removed the shelves, unscrewed the cover panel of the fan motor and regulator dial, disconnected the fan motor from power, unscrewed 2 screws holding the motor to the mounting bracket and put the new motor in it's place. New motor had no thread in the mounting holes, so I put new tread in so I could use the 2 screws. Another option would have been to drill all the way through the mounting holes and use longer screws or bolts. Of course I turned the power off before I started repairs. Freezer runs like new now. Technicians wanted $400 for the job, while it cost me a mere $55 for the Motor.

I followed the video. It’s not that it’s a bit difficult, it’s just going slowly and carefully.
The thing that I didn’t allow the 24 hours for the gasket to relax after leaving the box. Also, I forgot to heat the gasket and put a small layer of Vaseline.
So the next day I noticed the the gasket wasn’t seating properly and went back to the video and carefully followed the steps to gently heat it with a hair dryer and Vaseline. The gentle heat let the gasket properly relax and seat. The Vaseline helped created a small vacuum to complete the gaskets “training” to seal properly.
24 hours later it was beautiful and the freezer was working like new.
Parts Select was great to deal with.

Best way is to watch the video on YouTube and follow the directions

Had to lossen around 60 screws to allow for the old gasket to be removed. Then I began the process of inserting the new gasket by fitting it into the gasket channel opened when I loosened the 60 screws. I inserted the gasket a little at a time making sure it was properly fitted then I tightened that part and then do the next part until I finished replacing the gasket.

The replacement of the Thermistor is a snap. Take out the bottom two shelves, remove the 8 screws in the back panel, pull it out. Cut the wires to the old thermistor and install the new one. There are demo's on you tube so I wont go into detail.

Unfortunately the replacement door seal was packaged with twists in it and would not lay flat on the door. I found the old seal was not the problem - but instead ice had grown between the door and the door panel so that the door would not seal properly. I reinstalled the old door seal and everything is fine now.

From discussions with friends, I determined the problem might be easy to fix. The fridge made a lot of noise, but the compressor DID come on, and inside the freezer was cold, but the main fridge was warming.

After unplugging the fridge, I removed the fan assembly in the freezer (there were about 4 nuts and a couple of plugs to uncouple.

I could see right away the fan blades has broken off, but the motor looked good. The new new fan pushed easily onto the shift and fit perfectly in the housing.

I reinstalled the fan assembly, plugged in the fridge, and right away heard the new fan come on - very quietly. What was a roar became a whisper and the fridge was down to 38 degrees with a few hours.

took door of removed gasket replaced

I order another one thanks

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

Followed the instructions

After removing the key from its shipping package I pushed it into the freezer locking slot and turned it to lock and unlock the lid and then removed it. I had no problems with this fix. Of course, I am an older gentleman with a lot of experience in repairs around my house,as well as other houses. I am sure that a less experienced person may have more of problem with this type of "repair".

Removed the inside evaporator coil to do inside solder job, use torch to heat solder joints on the outside drier in order to remove it and install new drier. Soldered Heat exchanger line to drier and 1/4” copper line to compressor. Wrapped with new insulation wrap. Pulled a vacuum on system and then charged with 4.4 ounces of 134a freon. Works like a champ again!

The left swing hinge (297283901) that i needed is not available anywhere so I bought the right swing hinge (297283900), used a hydraulic press to pop out the pin and move it to the other hole. After that it was real quick to remove the screws and change out the hinge, changing the swing of the door. It is easiest to remove the top hinge and door first when doing this.

Remove shelves. Unplug unit. Unscrew back panel. Remove wire harness. Remove old fan. Insert new fan. Screw it in. Reattach wires harness. Plug unit in and make sure fan is on.
Reattach back panel. Put shelves back in.

Unplug freezer.
Open freezer and Remove the bottom 2 shelves and drawers.
Remove 6 screws (Phillips) securing the inside access panel located in the back of the unit.
Locate the defroster bar which is secured to the bottom of the condenser radiator. Trace the cable to the thermostat that is clipped into the condenser coil.
Unplug thermostat power cable located at the top left of the condenser coil, and the defroster bar cable on the upper right.
Release metal band that secures bar to the coil at the bottom where the coil and bar are secured.
Reverse for installation.