2375 - Overview

Models starting with 2375

Exact Part matches for your search term

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Mounting Bracket-Rear L.H. – Part Number: 2375
Mounting Bracket-Rear L.H.
This part number matches the current model number 2375
PartSelect #: PS8929274
Manufacturer #: 2375
  No Longer Available
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Grease Filter – Part Number: WP707929
Grease Filter
★★★★★
★★★★★
(25)
PartSelect #: PS11743846
Manufacturer #: WP707929
The function of the grease filter is to trap grease into the filter from the exhaust air. The grease filter is intended to be used with certain downdraft cooktops and ranges. This grease filter is rou...
$38.73
  In Stock
Surface Burner Knob – Part Number: WPY700854
Surface Burner Knob
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect #: PS11757562
Manufacturer #: WPY700854
This surface burner knob is two inches in diameter. It is a black knob with a chrome trim, and white numbering denoting the temperature level of the surface burner. Sold individually. This knob accepts a D-shaped shaft.
$31.31
  In Stock
Screw – Part Number: W11233072
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
PartSelect #: PS12349731
Manufacturer #: W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$20.77
  In Stock
Surface Unit Infinite Switch Kit – Part Number: 700855K
Surface Unit Infinite Switch Kit
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★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect #: PS2076107
Manufacturer #: 700855K
This is a push-and-turn switch. This kit includes all necessary hardware to install the part. Switch comes with a D-shaped shaft.
$159.91
  In Stock
Screw – Part Number: WP179051
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect #: PS11738704
Manufacturer #: WP179051
Sold individually. Lock washers are used with screws when vibration from an appliance may cause the screw to loosen. Lock washers are also used in the electrical components of an appliance to ensure ...
$8.04
  On Order
Fuel Line – Part Number: 530069247
Fuel Line
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★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect #: PS9472280
Manufacturer #: 530069247
This is the replacement fuel line 25 Inch for several OPE products that use small engines. The fuel line carries fuel from the tank to the carburetor. Over time, the fuel line can become badly clogged...
$6.62
  In Stock
Engine Fuel Filter – Part Number: 530095646
Engine Fuel Filter
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★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS9285148
Manufacturer #: 530095646
This fuel filter is for lawn and garden equipment engines. Fuel filter cleans the fuel before it reaches the carburetor. Work in a well-ventilated area when installing this part. Drain the fuel...
$4.99
  In Stock
Rock Plate – Part Number: 74011338
Rock Plate
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS2088651
Manufacturer #: 74011338
This part is used as a support for the grill element. Sold individually.
  No Longer Available
Glass Grease Collecting Jar – Part Number: WPY707869
Glass Grease Collecting Jar
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS11757591
Manufacturer #: WPY707869
This jar is a little over five inches long. It is made of glass and is used for collecting the grease drippings of gas ranges.
$45.46
  On Order
Tank Purge Line – Part Number: 530069216
Tank Purge Line
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS9472264
Manufacturer #: 530069216
This part is the replacement tank/purge line for your outdoor power equipment. It is made of clear plastic and is sold individually. The tank/purge line returns excess fuel from the carburetor to the ...
$6.21
  In Stock
Burner Cartridge Terminal Block – Part Number: WPY708730
Burner Cartridge Terminal Block
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS11757594
Manufacturer #: WPY708730
No spades or wiring come with this part. To order the spades or wiring, please research by model# of appliance.
$61.28
  In Stock
Motor Isolator – Part Number: WP71003558
Motor Isolator
PartSelect #: PS11743903
Manufacturer #: WP71003558
This motor isolator is less than an inch long.
$8.03
  In Stock

Common Symptoms of models starting with 2375

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Element will not heat
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
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Will Not Start
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
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Engine stops after a few seconds or minutes
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing Fixing
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Touchpad does not respond
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing Fixing
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
replaced filter
pulled old one out , cleaned the area & replaced with the new one.
Parts Used:
Grease Filter
  • ELOISE from MILFORD, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
482 of 504 people found this instruction helpful.
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Old grease filter that I actually did not know I had to change
Removed the old grease screen and cleaned the entire area thoroughly and replaced the screen
Parts Used:
Grease Filter
  • deborah from fort pierce, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
449 of 535 people found this instruction helpful.
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Deterioration of fuel line system
Removed the top cover (T25 torx), and side cover (T25 torx) with recoil starter. Drained all fuel, and removed all pieces of fuel old fuel line and the weighted filter from inside the tank by shaking out and the (long forceps). A spot headlamp makes it easier to see inside the tank for much of the procedure. Remove the foam filter to find the two 8mm nuts and remove the air filter housing and carburetor (nut driver, 8mm socket) the choke lever slides out of its slot with some wiggling and moving the carb back off the mounting studs. Leave the throttle cable attached to the filter housing and move both assemblies out of the way to access the top wall of the fuel tank. There is a cover over the carb adjust screws that wiggles out also. The fuel line and purge line both pass through the wall of the tank and need to be pulled out with some effort (long curved forceps) from inside the tank through the fuel fill port. They are a tight fit. Pay attention to the lines size and location. Large line is in the position away from the recoil starter with the little plastic fitting hanging near the top of the tank. The smaller line is closest to the recoil starter. Both new lines will need to pass through the tank wall (this is the most difficult part). To facilitate the initial entry through the wall of the tank, cut a tapered end on your new lines. Use a very slippery lube to coat the end of the line and push it into the tank as far as you can from the top (forceps or soft grip pliers) help. Look inside the tank and pull the lines through fully out of the tank fill (long curved forceps and head spot light). Don't pull all the way through the fuel fill, just enough to install the new fuel line fitting in the return purge line and the new weighted filter on the fuel line and pull the lines back inside the tank. The return line with fitting close to the top of the tank and the filter hanging so it lays at the bottom of the tank, and able to swing around so it keeps contact with fuel at all times. Remove the old purge/primer bulb two screws (Phillips). The short stem is suction, long stem is pressure. Don't mix them up and connect lines backwards, don't ask me how I know! Lol! If you have such a saw like mine, that has no fuel lines intact, it is difficult to vision the line routes. There are helpful schematics on the internet. Just remember that the purge bulb long fuel stem sends pressure back to the tank through the return line (larger line in the tank with the line fitting away from the recoil). That line can now be cut to length and pushed on the bulb long stem. The suction side of the bulb short stem, connects to the purge line on the side of the carburetor (short line). You need to cut that line to the same length as the old one. It has to curve twice to get to the suction side of the purge bulb without kinking. The only other line left is the fuel line with the filter attached hanging inside the tank. Be sure you have the filter able to lay on the floor of the tank and move around. That line connects to the carburetor opposit side from the purge bulb. Dont cut that one until the carb is installed for proper length. The fuel routes from that filtered line into the carb, then out of the carb to the purge bulb suction side, then out to the return line in the tank with the fitting end. That fitting installed into the line serves only to keep the line from pulling back out of the tank, nothing attaches to it. Make sure all lines are clear of the mounting area of the carb, and throttle function. Pass the bulb lines through the slot in the side of the case being sure the lines don't kink. Secure the bulb with the two phillips screws. Position the carb on the studs and slide the choke lever into its place in the case as you go. Place the filter housing on the studs and push the carb and housing down watching the fuel lines for any kinks, especially where the throttle cable is in close proximity to the short carb purge line. Check the throttle function for interferance, and Install the two 8mm nuts. Now route the fuel line around the throttle mechanism out of the way, hold it to the barb on the side of the carb and cut it to length and install. Put some fuel mix in the tank (dont fill it) to test. Press the primer bulb, tilting the saw with fill cap removed, and see if anything leaks, also watch fuel flow back to the tank inside as you press the bulb. You should see fuel and air bubbles from the purge line. When all air bubbles are gone the system is purged. Install the new foam filter in the housing and then the top and side cases. I did not reinstall the cover of the carb adjust needle screws so I could adjust the fuel/ air mixture to run at peak performance. Hope this helps! The kit that I got was perfect and there are some useful instructions included. Thank you! Respectfully Mark
Parts Used:
Primer Bulb Kit Fuel Line Tank Purge Line Foam-Air Filter Fuel Line Fitting Engine Fuel Filter
  • Mark from LYNDONVILLE, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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