Washer Wheels and Rollers
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Popular Washer Wheels and Rollers
Your Price
$17.44
Mounting Strip Wheel
The part was backordered, so I re-ordered it through Sears. They said it would arrive in two days. Theirs came in two weeks, and their customer service was terrible.
Your "backordered" part came in two days, even before it was supposed to come had the part not been back ordered. I am delighted with your customer service and your company.
The illustrations on your website were excellent. They helped us not only to identify the part, but to diagnose the problem.
This was my first purchase through your company and if I ever need parts again, there is absolutely no reason to go anywhere else.
You have an excellent company, and great website! I bookmarked your page for future purchases. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11747645
Manufacturer Part Number WP99002106
This white mounting strip wheel is a little over an inch in diameter.
Installation Instructions
Wanda from Bay Shore, NY
loose top basket/
I had two problems with the dishwasher. The top basket was loose, but the main problem was a plastic part inside the bottom assembly. The part was backordered, so I re-ordered it through Sears. They said it would arrive in two days. Theirs came in two weeks, and their customer service was terrible.
Your "backordered" part came in two days, even before it was supposed to come had the part not been back ordered. I am delighted with your customer service and your company.
The illustrations on your website were excellent. They helped us not only to identify the part, but to diagnose the problem.
This was my first purchase through your company and if I ever need parts again, there is absolutely no reason to go anywhere else.
You have an excellent company, and great website! I bookmarked your page for future purchases. Read more...
Your Price
$18.84
Tension Idler Pulley
2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the agitator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.
3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.
4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.
5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.
6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.
The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS418897
Manufacturer Part Number 131862900
The idler pulley on your washing machine allows the drive belt to operate smoothly. If your washer is not spinning or agitating, makes too much noise, or you notice a burning smell when it is operating, you might need to replace the tension idler pulley. The tension idler pulley works in conjunction with the drive belt, so you might need to replace the belt as well as the pulley. Once the old pulley has been removed from the washer, you will need to transfer the spring and bushing from the old pulley to the new one before re-attaching it to the washer.
Fixes these symptoms
- Burning smell
- Noisy
- Pumps but will not spin
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Rick from Walkerton, IN
The primary problem was that the tub seal assembly was leaking.
1. I began by removing the two screws that hold the front panel in place. I then lifted the top free of the front panel and tilted it back to get it out of the way.2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the agitator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.
3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.
4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.
5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.
6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.
The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy. Read more...
Your Price
$40.02
Glide and Spring Kit
After removing the front panel of the washer (two philips screws), I loosened and removed the plastic motor cover and removed three hex head screws holding the motor. Have someone help you tilt the washer so you can remove the belts by "rolling" them off of the pullies (pump pully and motor pully). What I did was use a chemical degreaser to clean the motor base metal channel where the nylon sliders reside. After doing that and letting it dry, I removed the two old
springs. I ended up reinstalling the old springs because they were not stretched and I installed a new spring (total three) on the right side of the mount. A stiff metal rod with a hook on the end will help you install the springs. Squirt some of the included silicone lubricant on both sides of the motor mount channel and exercise the lube. Reinstall the motor and plastic cover over top of motor. Clean hands and clean belts while you have them out, reinstall belts and front cover and you're finished. My wife said it never ran better! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS2017149
Manufacturer Part Number 205000
This glide and spring kit contains two three inch springs, four one inch square glides, and two tubes springs. This kit replaces older style round roller glides.
Fixes these symptoms
- Burning smell
- Noisy
- Pumps but will not spin
- See more...
Installation Instructions
dominic from weirton, WV
The belts were not staying tight enough to agitate properly.
Firstly, remove ac power from washer!After removing the front panel of the washer (two philips screws), I loosened and removed the plastic motor cover and removed three hex head screws holding the motor. Have someone help you tilt the washer so you can remove the belts by "rolling" them off of the pullies (pump pully and motor pully). What I did was use a chemical degreaser to clean the motor base metal channel where the nylon sliders reside. After doing that and letting it dry, I removed the two old
springs. I ended up reinstalling the old springs because they were not stretched and I installed a new spring (total three) on the right side of the mount. A stiff metal rod with a hook on the end will help you install the springs. Squirt some of the included silicone lubricant on both sides of the motor mount channel and exercise the lube. Reinstall the motor and plastic cover over top of motor. Clean hands and clean belts while you have them out, reinstall belts and front cover and you're finished. My wife said it never ran better! Read more...
Your Price
$87.42
Drive Pulley Kit
Gently filed the flats with the flat surface of the file and filed the hump on the shaft that the "hammering" created. Take extreme caution to not file surfaces too much, because new pulley will be loose and the next step is to replace the drum shaft.($$$$) Pulley did not fit 100% (Had some slop) but that was from material being worn away from "hammering" effect. Torqued with Torque wrench and added green 609 loctite compound - this is meant to help adhere and take up some loose fit in assemblies. - Drawback to Loctite is most have to be heated to 300 to 400 degrees to remove, or pulley will need to be cut off and ruined, I further repair/removal of pulley is necessary. This is an Easy Fix/Replacement of parts.... The hard part is filing the drum shaft surfaces to accept the new pulley, and getting the belt back on - Belt is tight but needs to be stretched on like putting a bike chain back on.
Washer now spins and sounds like a dream!
- Good Luck! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS1016963
Manufacturer Part Number WH07X10016
This part is used to turn the drive belt with the help of the motor or transmission.
Fixes these symptoms
- Noisy
- Pumps but will not spin
- Shakes and moves
- See more...
Installation Instructions
BRETT from CLINTON, CT
Rear Tub Pulley became loose and deformed pulley shaft
Ordered new Parts. Removed old/worn parts. Found that the "hammering" from a loose pulley had worn and deformed the edges of the shaft where the flats are to accept new pulley.Gently filed the flats with the flat surface of the file and filed the hump on the shaft that the "hammering" created. Take extreme caution to not file surfaces too much, because new pulley will be loose and the next step is to replace the drum shaft.($$$$) Pulley did not fit 100% (Had some slop) but that was from material being worn away from "hammering" effect. Torqued with Torque wrench and added green 609 loctite compound - this is meant to help adhere and take up some loose fit in assemblies. - Drawback to Loctite is most have to be heated to 300 to 400 degrees to remove, or pulley will need to be cut off and ruined, I further repair/removal of pulley is necessary. This is an Easy Fix/Replacement of parts.... The hard part is filing the drum shaft surfaces to accept the new pulley, and getting the belt back on - Belt is tight but needs to be stretched on like putting a bike chain back on.
Washer now spins and sounds like a dream!
- Good Luck! Read more...
Your Price
$40.86
Idler Pulley Shaft
PartSelect Number PS11742857
Manufacturer Part Number WP56461
This shaft is made to fit the center of the idler pulley wheel of many clothes dryers. It is less than two inches long, and is made of metal.
Fixes these symptoms
- Noisy
- Will not tumble
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Brian from Yucaipa, CA
Screeching sound coming from back of the dryer.
First removed the bottom access panel, then the then pried the top lid open. Then, I could get to the four screws holding the front of the drum in place. Once that was removed, reached underneath drum and disconnected belt from tensioner pulley and motor. Removed the drum and discovered the problem. One of the two drum rollers had completely disintergrated from the shaft, actually "melting" off of its roller shaft. Removed both of the rollers and shafts by putting a flathead screwdriver on the slot of the shaft, and at the same time holding the locknut behind the bracket with a box wrench. I replaced both shafts and rollers and reused the same washers and snaprings. I used a screwdriver and a vice to remove the snap rings off of the old shafts. The best bet is to use a pair of snap ring pliers, which I didn't have. I used some white silicone grease to lube the new rollers up, reinstalled them and replaced the belt. You MUST route the belt around the drum before you install, then connect the belt to the motor underneath and wrap it around the tensioner. While I had everything opened up, I shop-vac"d the inside of my dryer(filthy). I did this before putting anything back together. Also, when re-installing the front dryer panel, make sure the motor inlet and the lint outlet tube form an airtight seal. All in all, this was a fairly strightforward job. The dryer now works great and is as quiet as a mouse.
Read more...
Your Price
$37.01
Spin Pulley for Transmission Drive
PartSelect Number PS2040950
Manufacturer Part Number 40047202
This helps turn the pump and to help make the washer agitate properly. It is generally positioned between the motor and the pump.
Fixes these symptoms
- Noisy
- Pumps but will not spin
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Steven from Lyndonville, NY
Loud noise/Washer tub doesn't spin
First remove the bottom front access door. The helix drive nut and pulley were both chewed up. I pushed the pulley up into the brake assembly to make sure it released properly. Mine released and the drum spun freely (I had my 8 yr old assistant turn the drum first). The helix nut turned with the drum so I assumed the transmission was good to go. Once my drive nut and pulley came in (two days), [UNPLUG WASHER AND DISCONNECT WATER] I took the top front cover off and lifted the top up and back on it's hinges. Next I disconnected the motor wiring harness, the bleach tube, the fill hose, the six drum springs, and the drain hose from the pump. Pulled the drum out of the shell and flipped it upside down. I took off the helix drive nut and removed the 8 bolts that hold the "milk stool and bearing assembly" and motor to the drum, also 2 screws that go into the plastic reservoir. I raised the milk stool enough to get the pulley out. (Belt was good) Put in new pulley and pushed the milk stool back down. (I was careful to keep the bearing on the shaft splines). Put the belt back on the pulley and idler. Put in all the bolts and put back together in reverse order. I recommend starting with the back drum springs, that's how I did it and it was easy. About an hour. Good luck.
Read more...
Your Price
$36.41
Your Price
$181.52
