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This triangular main tub bearing assembly is five inches long. It is made of metal.
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★★★★★
★★★★★
JOSEPH RODRIGUEZ A - February 16, 2022
Verified Purchase
exact part for the machine
new part good quality
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Installation Instructions
Average Repair Rating: 2.1 / 5.0, 5 reviews.
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Noisy during spin cycle
This was the second time for the repair. The original bearing lasted 5 years then became noisy. Replaced it, and the unit worked great 5 more years and the noise came back. So I knew exactly what needed fixing what to order, parts wise. This is not a project for the faint of heart, you will completely disassemble your washer to change
... Read more out the main bearing. Roughly here are the steps: 1, pull out the agitator with a good firm jerk up. 2, remove the rubber plug in the center of the drive hub, 3 remove the bolt you have just exposed. 4, pry up on the hub, use a puller if you have to to remove it. 5, pry off the cone shaped rubber seal and remove the large main nut from the drive shaft. 6, remove the 4 bolts holding tub, 7 remove the front panel and unscrew the front of the top panel, tip the top up. 8, lift out the tub, 9, remove the 6 large springs holdig the inner assembly to the base, 10, disconnect the water to tank hose and the fill level hose, 11, disconnect the motor cable at the motor, 12, free up the drain hose and pull it, 13, have a helper lift the inner assembly out and move it to a work area, 14, unbolt the drum from the base, motor, and counter weight 15, pry the drive hub off the transmission shaft, 16, remove the rubber seal from the drum, 17 flip the drum and remove the 3 bolts holding the bearing in place. Reverse to put it back. These steps are from memory so they may not be exact. The exploded views on PartsSelect.com web help, as to the instructions that come with the parts.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
102 of 115 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Very noisy in spin cycle.
Disassembled top and front of machine. Removed agitator cap, removed agitator by removing center bolt. Removed tub top ring, removed balance springs, removed inner tub drain tube,removed shaft nut with channel locks, removed 7 bolts from underneath holding inner tub with 5/16 ratchet. Removed inner tub. Removed bolts holding outter tub, r
... Read moreemoved outter tub. (rock back and forth to break up old detergent etc... to remove). W-D'd the locking nut after cleaning lint, detergent etc...,used short steel bar and hammer to loosen retaining nut with "L" shaped ears. (it is all one piece and the whole thing turns off, counter/clockwise removal).Remove bearing assembly, clean and install new, remove bearing seal from tub, clean and install new. ( used silicone caulk as additional seal, let set 24 hrs.)Re-assemble in reverse. Runs like new.
removed front, top & loosened side covers, removed agitator, removed inner drum & removed outer drum. had to release balance springs, it is a good idea to silicone in the new seal in the drum. this will prevent future leaks. removed lower plate containing the bearing & replaced. re-assembled in opposite order. i gave the silicone a day
... Read moreto cure before use, it works fine now. they say you need a special tool to remove the nut for the drum. i just used a pair of channellocks & tapped the handle, & it came right off.
This is not a bad repair, but give yourself some time. I did not have to take the tranny and motor out, but the inner and outer tub and all related parts had to come out, along with the outer tub base. If you are replacing the tub bearing, you HAVE to order the seal kit. Don't try to skimp like I did, since you will need the seal kit as t
... Read morehis is what causes that bearing to fail in the first place. We forgot how quiet the washer was after I fixed it, and it saved us from buying a new washer since we were ready to say the heck with it and buy a new pair. You might need an 1.5 inch socket to get the big nut off the spindle, but I was able to get with a visegrip and hammer. The nice thing about this repair is even if you screw it up, you won't have water all over the place because of the seal design. I just checked under the washer a few times for the first few weeks and all seems fine.
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mike from hull, IA
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
24 of 26 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Washer made loud noise on spin only
Removed agitator, inner and outer tub, balance springs, motor assembly,transmission to get to bearing and seal in tub bottom.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
50 of 63 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Phil
May 3, 2023
The tub is not spinning tightly, it's really sloppy, as if a bearing is worn out. However, your trouble shooting says it would be leaking, but it's not. What is your thought ?
For model number Cw9500w
Hello Phil, thank you for the question. You may have a faulty bearing, as they help keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. You may need to replace the bearing, part number PS11742241. We hope this helps.
Wouldn't i also need the seal. It does not look like the bearing on the videos i've seen.
For model number Mhwe250xl100
Hello Len and thanks for writing.
Yes, there is a seal or gasket. Part # 11742242 is not compatible with your model. The part you are requesting is discontinued for your model and is no longer available. We have no known replacement information in our system. We recommend you contact the manufacturer of the part to see if they have recently released a new substitute. The gasket is available part # PS11748347.
Maytag (CA) 800-688-2002 We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.