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6494-LWM-423 Amana Washer - Overview

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Thrust – Part Number: WPW10121334
$7.47
In Stock
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WP90767
$7.47
In Stock
Dryer Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP285655
$9.62
In Stock
Hose Clamp
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP285655
The hose clamp is used to hold the water hose in place which will prevent the hose from leaking water. Sometimes the clamp may lose its ability to latch on, causing a leaking washer. For the installation, you will need a flat head screw driver to replace the clamp and a drill to access the screws to remove the front of the washer. Be careful if you do not have specific clamp pliers as the clamp could fly off. Once the front of the washer has been removed, take a quick look for water damage or any obvious signs of where the leak is coming from. If it is not obvious, run water to test.
Drain Hose with Rubber Elbow – Part Number: WP40053901
$55.29
In Stock
Drain Hose with Rubber Elbow
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #WP40053901
This hose attaches to the pump to help remove the water out of the washer. 7 feet in length.
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WPY014874
$7.47
In Stock
Dryer Screw
Part #WPY014874
Sold Individually.
Washer Screw 818 X 1/2 – Part Number: WP3390631
$7.47
In Stock
Washer Screw 818 X 1/2
Part #WP3390631
This screw is sold individually.
Main Tub Bearing Assembly – Part Number: WP40004201P
$65.73
In Stock
Main Tub Bearing Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP40004201P
This triangular main tub bearing assembly is five inches long. It is made of metal.
Water Inlet Valve – Part Number: WP34963
No Longer Available
Water Inlet Valve
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★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP34963
This valve has two ports for water to enter. This water inlet valve attaches the water lines to the back of your appliance. The attaching solenoids on the valve open and close according to the desired temperature, or amount of water needed.
Support Leg Spring – Part Number: 35948
No Longer Available
Support Leg Spring
Part #35948
These springs are sold individually and usually require a total of 7 per appliance.
Drive Bell and Seal Kit – Part Number: R9900189
No Longer Available
Drive Bell and Seal Kit
Part #R9900189
This washing machine drive bell and seal kit comes with a seal, a plug, a shoulder screw, a drive bell, and some grease.
Timer Knob – Part Number: WP34844
No Longer Available
Timer Knob
Part #WP34844
This timer knob is just over an inch in diameter. It is all black in color and is made entirely of plastic.
Single Washer Inlet Strainer – Part Number: WP22002960
No Longer Available
Single Washer Inlet Strainer
Part #WP22002960
Found at the end of the inlet hoses.

Common Symptoms of the 6494-LWM-423

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Water leaking on floor from "mysterious place underneath washer"
51 of 57 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bryan from Chicago, IL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
Water was leaking on the floor during the wash cycle and especially during draining of the washer. I removed the front panel at ground level and watched while draining after a rinse.

I t was obvious that water was spraying from a hole in the rubber end of the hose (the hose is a fused assembly of a plastic section and a rubber section).

So, I finished draining, removed the hose (required pliers to squeeze off a hose clamp).

Upon inspecting the hose, it was also apparent that the hole was caused by rubbing against a support bracket for the motor. This should not happen, but it did because the plastic standoff supposed to keep the hose away from the bracket was installed 180 degrees backwards.

So, I simply replaced the hose and turned the bracket around to the correct orientation.

Everything worked as planned and my repair cost was much less than if I had called someone out.
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The Seal On The Bottom Of The Tub Was Leaking
34 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
  • HOWARD from CORTLAND, OH
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed the front of the washer, then lifted the top up and held it up with a prop. Pulled the agitator straight up and started the disasembly. Using the photos in the hub and seal kit was a big help. The large nut on the output shaft had to be cut off with my dremel tool and the hub removed with a wheeler puller. Assembly was pretty much straight forward. Primed the pump and started the machine for the stated time and was a sucess.
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Bearing went out causing lots of noise.
24 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • mike from hull, IA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
This is not a bad repair, but give yourself some time. I did not have to take the tranny and motor out, but the inner and outer tub and all related parts had to come out, along with the outer tub base. If you are replacing the tub bearing, you HAVE to order the seal kit. Don't try to skimp like I did, since you will need the seal kit as t his is what causes that bearing to fail in the first place. We forgot how quiet the washer was after I fixed it, and it saved us from buying a new washer since we were ready to say the heck with it and buy a new pair. You might need an 1.5 inch socket to get the big nut off the spindle, but I was able to get with a visegrip and hammer. The nice thing about this repair is even if you screw it up, you won't have water all over the place because of the seal design. I just checked under the washer a few times for the first few weeks and all seems fine.
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