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Water line was broken at the bottom of the freezer door.
There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.
Ice maker inlet tube was freezing up, and eventually the icemaker overfilled and completely froze up
After lots of research online, i narrowed my problem down to be the double outlet water valve, behind the fridge. My biggest problem was getting the refridgerator out of its spot, but after that it was pretty simple to change. I took the cover off the bottom, in the back of the fridge, then i removed the inlet waterline (after i turned off the water supply to the fridge). After that i removed the screw that holds the valve to the framework. Now i pulled off the two other waterlines from the old valve and moved them, one at a time, over to the new valve, along with the wire harness. The rest of the instalation was reverse order. Simple fix that im glad i didn't pay an expert to do!
I pulled-out & unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the screws to gain access through the lower back panel. The water valve is on the left side as I face the back of the fridge. It has one screw holding it to the frame of the fridge. Once it is free, the main water hose is unscrewed and the two out-let lines were pulled-out. If your valve was not ruined prior to this, it is ruined now, as the lines will not re-seat. Then everything is done in reverse order. I did cut 1/2 inch off of the two lines so that they reseat into the new valve. Just push into the valve and they are good.
I tried to quite the noisey evap motor with special liquid motor grease from Radio Shack. It did not work, so I ordered the evap motor. My freezer motor was wired slightly different than the motor I received. The replacement motor had a male plug attached to the four wires, the original motor was different, so I cut the wires and spliced them into the original freezer wires (colors were the same). Remounted motor. Works great, and no more groaning motor Peter
Ordered the icemaker replacement. unplugged the unit, followed the simple instructions and got it done in less than 30 minutes. It did take a LONG time to start making ice. But it's working now.
I ordered the wrong part, the ice maker assembly, because your diagram was not marked properly. I returned the part and you credited my account. Thanks. Ordered the new bucket. It worked fine. Now I have ice and crushed Ice whenever I want. Thanks.
p.s. I didnt use any tools, but to satisfy you I select nut driver.
Background: My refrigerator was part of the class action law suit back in 2006. As a result both doors, the auger in the ice maker and a heating element in the freezer were all replaced.
Problem this time: Water was not dispensing.
Solution: Replaced the double outlet water valve in the back lower left portion of the refergerator. Water was coming into it from the water filter hose, but not coming out of it when the water dispenser in the front was engaged.
Further, I found that the coils in the back of the freezer were iced up and I therefore defrosted them with a heater. Thus, the original problem encountered with the law suit, did not get fixed by simply replacing the doors. That problem is still there. I think the defroster/heating element in the freezer is again not working.
However, I do now have water flowing again and the installation was, as others have described, very easy. Thanks for the online help.
Procedure for Replacing the Ice Chute Plate 1. Turn off the power. 2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet. 3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel. 4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips. 5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner). 6. Remove the flap assembly. 7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel. 8. Install the new flap assembly. 9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality. 10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.
Turn off the water. Unplug the refrigerator Take the back off of the refrigerator use socket wrenchs to undo and take off the water valve in the lower left corner of refrigerator. Pull out and disconnect electrical connections Pull out the 2 water tubes one for ice and 1 for water-white is water and black is ice. install the new valve and connect the water and ice back in the new unit connect the two power cords and reattach unit to the frame Turn water on and check for leaks. If no leaks put back on refrigerator and plug in. Wait 30 min to an hour for water to begin to flow back into the unit.
I removed the outer plate by sticking a very small screwdriver in the small holes at the bottom of the plate and pulling the plate toward me. I then removed the 4 screws from the internal plate and pulled the plate toward me. Then I romoved the 3 screws holding the old solenoid and unplugged it. Next I put the new solenoid in place and replaced the three screws. Finally I plugged in the solenoid and replaced the internal and external plates.
Frost In Frezer Compartment Where Chute Meets Ice Cube Maker
Removed front panel (using small screw driver) by popping it out, disconnected wire from solenoid, removed solenoid which was rusted, 3 small philip head screws held it in place insereted new solenoid,connected wire snapped front panel back in. Clapper valve closes tightly and no frost in frezzer, saved my self a bunch of money.