ZDT915SSJ2SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed two latch screws and one electrical connection, Removed
two screws that hold D/W to countertop, pulled D/W out enough to remove the old latch, install new latch, push D/W back into place, rescrew to counter top and rescrew the two latch screws. This problem happened since new, had repairmen twice and they did nothing but move the dishwasher stating it needed alignment, never mentioned this easy repair....

Replaced latch

The replacement went extremely well, the removal and installation of the unit from the cupboard took more time. The pump came off easily, I had to purchase a steel band clamp to replace the crimp clamp that was on the original pump as I did not have a tool for the crimp clamp.

Pulled dishwasher out switch is on very bottom of pump housing, turned dishwasher on its back, took out 1/4" bolt holding on bottom of switch frame, took two very small screwdrivers and small picks to hold open switch clips, while switch was removed checked float for frew movement, put in new switch, removed screw drivers and picks checked to see all locked on new switch in position, replaced bottom plate and bolt, checked burner reset all good now dishwasher heats and drys!

Was able to pop the dishwasher out, lay it on its side and then remove the drain pan. Pump was easily removed after removing the hose bolts and the electrical harness. Swapped the new one in and reversed the steps. A very straightforward repair all said and done.

took off 2 sheet metal on the bottom, lowered the dish washer, pulled it out enought to unscrew 2 screws, unplugged the old part plugged in the new, put it back together.
Works like a champ.

Super easy repair, just removed the old latch and replaced it with the new one.

When new gasket arrived almost two weeks after it was sent out from Green Bay, I took out old gasket, marking which side was in and which out.
Then, with hands, fit new gasket in place making sure it was centered.
No leaking; it worked.
Thanks.

Simply removed old gasket by hand, lined up center of new gasket (white dot was printed on the center of new gasket) with the tub latch and pressed new gasket into place. We have used the dishwasher about a dozen times since and hasn't leaked a drop.

I removed the old roller wheels and the new roller wheels snapped together and the simple instructions made the repair quick and simple..

Looked upm the problem it said door wasn.t closed so cause was the door latch. put in the new one no change so I bought a new dishwasher

Bottom rack came complete with all racks. Only had to transfer the (2) side bumper guards,

Due to the almost zero clearance between the recirculating pump and the floor, getting the pan to line up and engage the tabs on the dishwasher frame can seem to be an impossible task. I did accomplish the task as instructed in the owners installation manual once.

However, I observed that the leak was just a drop at a time only on the deep clean mode where water recycling was in constant use during a long wash cycle. So, I recommend to slide the pan in the relative position without trying to engage the tabs and you will still accomplish the reason for the leak pan. Remember, the purpose of the Leak Pan is to protect your floor, so use it the easy way as I am.

Took out 2 screws that held machine in cabinet. Pulled out dishwasher about 4 inches. removed old latch and disconnected electric connection. Put in new latch, reconnected electric connection, replaced screws, pushed machine back in cabinet, replaced 2 screws that hold machine in place. Works like new!

Needed GE Technician to install. Partselect.com had to send a second replacement rack because the first one was defective. When the second on arrived, IT TOO WAS DEFECTIVE. After the Tech tried to install the second replacement, he was forced to remove a part from the original rusted rack in order to get the 2nd replacement to even stay in the rails of the machine. Tech was great, but the Partselect.com parts were unusable as sent.