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WWSE5240GC General Electric Washer - Overview

Diagrams for WWSE5240GC

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DAMPENING STRAP 2PACK – Part Number: WH01X39337
$39.42
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DAMPENING STRAP 2PACK
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★★★★★
(38)
Part #WH01X39337
The tub dampening straps support the wash tub and reduce vibration by keeping the tub at the center of the cabinet. If your washer shakes and moves, or is making a loud banging noise during the wash cycle, the washing machine tub could be off-balance, meaning one or more of these straps may be loose, or broken. Other symptoms include: the washer leaking, not agitating, or pumping but not spinning. These straps are sold individually. However, we recommend that you replace all 4 straps at the same time. It is also recommended that you check the tub for cracks where these straps mount.
Drain Hose – Part Number: WH41X10096
$36.37
In Stock
Drain Hose
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(68)
Part #WH41X10096
The drain hose is black in color and made of flexible material. This is a part for your top-load washer. The hose measures 57 inches long. This part moves the water out of the washer and into the drain. If this parts cracks or becomes damaged it will leak during the drain cycle of your wash and you may find water on the floor. To access the hose, you will need to move the washer away from the wall to get to the back of the appliance. There will be two screws holding it in place that will need to be removed.
Drain Pump and Motor Assembly – Part Number: WH23X10030
$61.55
In Stock
Drain Pump and Motor Assembly
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Part #WH23X10030
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time. If you notice that your washing machine will not drain, there is a good chance that you will have to replace the drain pump. The drain pump is located inside the washing machine, near the bottom. To access the drain pump for this repair, you will need to remove the front panel. Before you begin this repair, be sure that the power source is disconnected and the water source is shut off.
Tub Seal – Part Number: WH02X10383
$22.24
In Stock
Tub Seal
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(18)
Part #WH02X10383
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. Its the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. If your washer is leaking during the fill cycle, or at agitation time, your tub seal may need to be replaced. You can check if the tub seal needs to be replaced by watching that area during an actual fill cycle. Take off the front panel, or if it is a front-loading washer, the rear panel. Without touching the washing machine, observe the place where the shaft of the transmission comes into the tub and the weep holes at the housing of the rear bearing. If there is water leaking, the tub seal is at fault. NOTE: This seal is difficult to replace and should probably be installed by a qualified technician.
Start/Stop Button – Part Number: WH01X10088
$28.76
In Stock
Start/Stop Button
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(6)
Part #WH01X10088
This is the start/stop button for your washer. If your washer will not start after the button is depressed, you may need to replace it. However, you may also want to check your door switch, because when the washer will not start, the door switch is often the issue. This part is made of rubber and is gray in color. It is a little bigger than 1 inch in diameter and is sold individually.
Socket Rod Support - White – Part Number: WH01X10001
$15.00
In Stock
Socket Rod Support - White
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(1)
Part #WH01X10001
This part is a replacement socket rod support for your washer. The socket rod support is found at the top of the washer frame in the front part of the washer. It supports the suspension rod, so the rod can prevent the tub from shaking too much during operation. If your washer is shaking excessively or emitting an odd sound during use, it may be because the rod support is broken, and the suspension rod is not able to do its job. This part is made of white plastic and is sold individually.
Inner Tub Base Hub – Part Number: WH45X10027
$82.87
In Stock
Inner Tub Base Hub
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(7)
Part #WH45X10027
This part is the replacement inner tub base hub for your washer. It is made of metal and is approximately 15 inches in diameter. The inner tub base hub fits between the wash tub and the spin basket, and it holds the spin basket on the gear case shaft. The main reason you would want to replace the hub, is if the washer will not agitate, or if you notice excessive noise or shaking when the washer is in use. Be sure to disconnect the washer from the water and power sources before you begin this repair. This part is sold individually and is and OEM part from the manufacturer.
Screw - Black – Part Number: WH02X10002
$15.00
Special Order
Screw - Black
Part #WH02X10002
This screw is sold individually.
Rod and Spring Assembly - Green – Part Number: WH16X10057
$45.07
In Stock
Rod and Spring Assembly - Green
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(3)
Part #WH16X10057
This part helps center and support the drum, transmission and motor assembly.
Locking Clip – Part Number: WH02X10279
$15.00
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Locking Clip
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Part #WH02X10279
Sold individually.
Tub Cover - White – Part Number: WH49X21274
No Longer Available
Tub Cover - White
Part #WH49X21274
This cover goes on top of the balance ring that is located on top of the basket.
MAGNET Assembly – Part Number: WH12X10276
$19.30
In Stock

Common Symptoms of the WWSE5240GC

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machine would not drain all other functions seemed o.k
88 of 92 people found this instruction helpful.
  • douglas from danby, VT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Aside from getting the wet clothes and most of the water out,the toughest part of the job for me was to figure out how to get inside the machine. I nearly wrecked the thing trying to lift the top panel. After some frustration I removed the star-type screws on back of the control panel and found, tucked away neatly, the documentation/parts list complete with instructions on how to remove the FRONT panel. Once I got inside it was easy to locate the pump. I ran the drain cycle for a moment to see if the pump turned at all. The original had an exposed fan so it was easy to see that indeed the motor was not turning. I inspected all the hose and electrical connections to make sure I had the tools I'd need and the savvy to replace the part(s) if I could locate them. I'm not much of a web-head, so I was a little surprised when I typed G.E. appliances and the search took me to partselect.com where I was pretty much coached through the procedure before I even ordered the part. The box arrived ahead of schedule (yay) and when I looked at the pump it didn't look much like the one I was replacing. But then I realized it was the same thing just ten years more advanced. I used a small pair of vise grips to pinch and lock the pipe clamps open. I know there is a plier made for this, but... Anyways, after loosening the clamps and sliding them away from the pump I pulled the hoses off and let the last of the rinse water still in them run down my shirt sleeve to my elbow. (optional, not recommended) Thus refreshed I then rummaged through my socket set and found what I needed to remove the 2 sheet metal mounting screws and disconnected the 2 power leads. I removed the faulty pump and proudly showed it to my wife. Unimpressed, she asked how much longer. I quickly reversed the procedure to install the new unit and confidently piled in a load of laundry. The cycle completed just fine and has done so since. I will and have recommmended partselect.com to friends and will use it again for sure.
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Pump and Motor Assembly began leaking and then seized.
51 of 56 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Alexandria, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
First I removed the front panel by prying it forward with a Screw driver away from the side panels at the top (wrap a shop rag around the Screw driver to keep from scratching the paint). Once you have the panel pried loose at the top ... lean it forward until you can lift it off the tab type hooks at the bottom.
I next unplugged the wires from the motor. The orginal motor had three wires ... two on top and one on the left side. The one on the side is a ground wire for the open frame motor. The replacement motor is sealed and does not require this wire. Just leave it unplugged when the new one is installed.
Next I removed the inlet hose that attaches to the back of the pump. Remove it by loosening the hose clamp and removing it from the bottom of the tub, leaving it attached to the back of the pump. It is much easier to remove and transfer to the new pump once it is out rather than fight with the spring type clamp on the back of the pump in the close quarters inside the machine.
Next I removed the outlet hose from the top of the pump. Squeeze the spring clamp with Pliers and work it up and off the pump.
Now I just used a Socket to remove the two bolts holding the bracket to the inside front of the machine and removed the assembly.
I now removed the inlet hose from the back of the old pump. Just squeeze the spring clamp with Pliers and work it up the hose and off the pump. Transfer the hose to the back of the new pump reusing the same clamp.
I now bolted the assembly back into the machine, reattached the outlet hose to the pump, and then reattached inlet hose to the bottom of the tub. All that was left to do was plug in the two wires to the top front of the pump motor (as I mentioned earlier, leave the side wire from the old pump unplugged as it is not needed on the new one). I then ran the machine for a few moments with the front off to check for any leaks and then put the front panel back on.
The whole replacement cost about $50 and took barely 15 min. from start to finish. The machine now works perfectly.
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washer didn't spin & water would not pump out
35 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ken from West Monroe, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Wrench set
removed hoses and clamps. removed 2 bolts on pump. put it back together. done 15 min.
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