WU484 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Remove lower cover, 4 Phillips screws. Remove bracket with float switch, two hex head screws in the rear. After removal pull switch wires, two in plastic housings. Remove float switch, one small Phillips head screw. Remove float switch lever, one Phillips head screw. Clean the bracket and lever. Replace the lever and lube with silicone. Replace the float switch, (new one) and replace wires. Reinstall install bracket with original hex head screws. Replace lower cover. Done.

Had service man: stated I would need new motor/pump at $400 complete. I didn't like the interior of new dishwashers. Nothing to lose, so I verified that the motor was working; reviewed short PartSelect video. Ref: very helpful PartSelect assembly diagrams with parts list. THANKS PS! Removed two dish racks (top rack: extend fully and flip the roller-keeper clips. Pull rollers and rack-pins apart) Then I started taking the pump apart all the way down to the pump base (fits into tub with seal - did not replace that seal). Very intuitive - some parts are tight and must be encouraged to come apart; take care of seals and o-rings; take notes of sequence if necessary. Look for parts requiring replacement. Unscrew Spray Tower Lower Extension Nozzle and lift off Spray Arm and two lower spray arm seals - check seals for wear. Unscrew pencil-like Spray Arm Support Nut. Cause: I found a totally-clogged Pump Housing Filter, a bit of steel wool about the size of my thumb (same size as water supply opening in bottom), and small piece of broken glass. Cleaned all parts coated with lime; new Pump Housing Filter (could not clean adequately). Cleaned the screens underside of filter support (difficult) with brush and wire. Replaced o-rings for Wash Impeller and Drain Impeller as a matter of principle. Only alignment requirement is with bottom water supplly hole. Everything works like new now! Recommendation: clean Pump Housing Filter annually.

Shut off the hot water supply (pretty sharp eh?). Disconnected the hose from the hw supply and the at the connection to the washing machine. These had not been touched in at least 15 years and were somewhat tough to loosen but finally came ..... accessibility was a problem for the connection to the water supply as it was in a recessed wall box. Fortunately, we had some washers for the hose connections so the install was a snap. Hardest part of the whole job was moving the washing machine out from between the drier and the wash tub .... tight fit. Thanks for the quick service and to FED EX for their delivery. The delivery fellow was a real gentleman.

Called you on Saturday excellent operator placed order even with my card 1st refusing to do transaction. Received pump seal Monday (yes) and All the parts 3 days. Sears (only)the rubber seal! Used one nut driver, labor 1 hr. Thanks to everyone and the phone operator.. My wife is very pleased @ 3 days even over weekend delivery (and) price was less than sears. We shall shop your website again

Removed lower spray arm and installed new seal under spray arm.Did not fix problem,I am guessing a low spray pressure.Everything checks out O.K.Anyone have some suggestions.How does the rinse aid get out of the holding tankr?

Removed front panel by removing four screws. Used 5/16 nut driver to remove six screws holding dispenser and disconnected two wires. Inserted new dispenser and reattached cover. Longest time taken was to realign cover properly. Best approach seemed to install with door as near vertical as possible and to start screws by hand. ONLY FOUR screws hold the panel in place. Very easy repair for anyone. part arrived sooner than expected.

First I changed the motor relay. The dryer still didn't work. Then I checked the display board by pressing washer on/off and dryer on/off at the same time. Then I pressed the dry control on/off. This showed me that the display board was okay. Then I changed the control board. The dryer worked fine after that.

Replaced whole assembly

Removed the seal and replaced with new one. Job went very easy. Stop the leake. Thank you.

Claude Miller

Firstly, I'm a 58 year old female and this repair was relatively easy for me, thanks to all the marvelous instructions on this site from others who made this same repair. Like the others, I removed the four lower screws on the INSIDE of the door along either outer edge. Before that, in error, I removed the four screws along the very bottom of the door, big mistake, hard to get them back in correctly. Removed the door panel and took out the 6 nuts from the dispenser cup, slipped the electrical clip thingys from the posts by slightly wiggling them straigt off, remember which color goes where. Cleaned the area around the old gasket and reattached the new gasket and dispenser cup. This was a little tricky holding it in place from the inside while using the nut drive on the outside. Whew! That was the hardest part for me. Thanks to all for the previous detailed instructions. I now have really clean dishes! Yay! Great feeling of accomplishment.

This dishwasher is over 20 years old and still works well. The door springs broke and the skematic shows 2 springs on each side. The spring kit only includes one spring for each side which is the primary spring. Removed the bottom access panel, shut off the water line and removed the water line. Removed the top screws which lock the dishwasher in the cabinet and pulled forward about 6 inches to fully expose the springs. Replaced the two big springs, one on each side and adjusted for maximum pull of door. The second small springs were not necessary. Pushed unit back into the cabinet, connected the water line and tested for water leaks. Cleaned and replaced access panel and the door is light as a feather.

Remove lower cover plate below door. Remove broken spring with needle nose pliers. Place plastic insert into upper spring loop and loop into hole on right spring hinge. Grab lower spring loop with needle nose pliers and insert through hole in lower frame base. Reinstall lower cover plate.

Changed springs on both sides as long as I was at it. Did this without having to pull out built in washer. Lock the door closed to give the least tension on the springs. Remove kick plate at bottom of washer. Remove small access panels on each side. If you have small enough paws you can reach thru the access holes and strectch the spring with your fingers to remove and install new springs or use needle nose pliers if you have to. Don't forget the nylon bushings that come with the springs or the metal on metal contact will eventually nick the springs hook and make them break . Hook top end of spring first (rounded hook) and then stretch spring by grasping between thumb and index finger and hook into bottom hole. Hardest part is having to lay on your stomach to do it. Reassemble and count the money you've saved.

had to remove the iner door plate and remove the main switch or latch to get to the micro switches witch one had over heated over time,it is working like new at this time.

removed retaining nut and replaced