WU482 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

remove 3 screws from either side door edge trim : Note ! panel "notches" are up : remove both original panals plus the cardboard spacer : swap only the old color with the new one and reinstall spacer cardboard and be sure it stays centered : remember panel notches are up : carfully slide the panels over the spacer cardboard while keeping the cardboard centered : becareful panel edges can scratch in the door trim : Note! opposite side door trim can be removed if needed .

I replaced the belt and door spring. Now it works perfectly, and the door doesn't drop with a bang.

The water inlet valve would not allow enough water to run effectively. To R & R the part only a phillips screwdriver, a smaller adjustable wrench and pliers are needed. Turn the water supply off, & disconnect the water supply. Remove 2 screws attached to the cabinet and remove the rubber fill hose with pliers to open the clamp. Remove the inlet fitting from the old part and place on the new valve, using teflon tape. Attach the new part to the cabinet wall then the water supply to the old, reused fitting (also with teflon). Obviously, turn power off and disconnect the 2 double leads before beginning and replace when done. A fairly simple job , and my miraculous Maytag keeps on going!!

No problem at all. Belt slipped on very easily. Followed directions in the package.

Typically when the detergent is not being despensed during the wash cycle, the bi-metal switch is bad (they don't tend to last forever). I took the 4 lower screws out from the inside of the dishwasher door,, unscrewed the bi-metal switch, and screwed in the new switch. I also decided to replace the metal spring for the dish as well, which took the majority of the time. Once you get the idea of how that spring is wound in there, the install goes pretty quickly.

It was either the timer assembly of the Dispenser cup assembly. After looking at the dispenser critically< it appeared that the cam was quite worn. The replacement was accomplished by removing the bottom part of the door (4 screws) and then removing the dispenser cup (8 hex-head screws). If you keep the starter lever to "off" there is not power to the timer and you do not need to disconnect power

Removed four screws that hold front panel. Disconnected two wires, removed six screws, cleaned of old gasket material. Installed new gasket and soap dispenser with six screws. replaced two wires. replace front panel.

found the parts ordered them an poof dishwasher us as good as new

Turn off power, remove the lower kick plate and lower trim panel with the nutdriver. The float switch is in the front on the left. Remove the two wires on the switch. Use a #1 philips to remove the one screw holding the switch to the frame. Remove switch. Install wires on new switch and install switch using the screw. Be sure to get the plastic float arm under the switch. Raise float and observe the switch clicking on and off. Replace lower plates and restore power.

My daughter and son removed the old gasket and installed the new one. It went well.

Remove lower cover, 4 Phillips screws. Remove bracket with float switch, two hex head screws in the rear. After removal pull switch wires, two in plastic housings. Remove float switch, one small Phillips head screw. Remove float switch lever, one Phillips head screw. Clean the bracket and lever. Replace the lever and lube with silicone. Replace the float switch, (new one) and replace wires. Reinstall install bracket with original hex head screws. Replace lower cover. Done.

I opened the bottom part of the dishwasher, from there you can see all parts of the motor including the pulleys where the broken belt came from. From here, I took the new belt, placed some silicon all around it and installed it by rotating the pulleys clockwise until the belt wraps around it.
Then I tested it by turning the control on the Wash/Rinse mode and it started to drain the water right away.
DONE!

NO PROBLEM!!!

PS.
THANK YOU FOR DELIVERING IT ON TIME.

bimetallic latch to release soap cover was broken.
Had to order entire soap cup assembly to get the bimetallic strip. Removed strip from new assembly and replaced broken strip. Put remainder of cup in box and saved for spare parts.

This was a pain to change due to very limited access. Also belt had very little stretch. Had to really put some thought in it before attempting.

Removed front panel by removing four screws. Used 5/16 nut driver to remove six screws holding dispenser and disconnected two wires. Inserted new dispenser and reattached cover. Longest time taken was to realign cover properly. Best approach seemed to install with door as near vertical as possible and to start screws by hand. ONLY FOUR screws hold the panel in place. Very easy repair for anyone. part arrived sooner than expected.