WKGX201HWA (ABWEEUS) LG Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Followed the manufacturers instructions to disassemble the washer from the top. There was a video on youtube of a guy who was able to replace his bellows hose from the back, but maybe my arms weren't long enough, I couldn't reach all the way to the front. The washer was pretty easy to take apart, except for taking off the top, where there were 2 extra screws not mentioned in the instructions. Replacing the part was really easy. HERE'S THE MOST IMPORTANT PART: LG DOESN'T MENTION IT IS REALLY HARD TO GET THE CLAMP ASSEMBLY BACK ON THE GASKET WITHOUT A SPECIAL TOOL. You can buy the special LG tool, or you can do what I did (and others on the internet) and buy an $8 "Brake spring spreader" tool at your local auto parts store. Repair was a success. No more water leaking!

Contacted LG customer service, not much help there. Watched a very helpful Utube video on how to find and repair the leak. The video suggested that the most common leak is in the drain hose with bellows. Removed the rear panel and removed the bellows unit using pliers for the clamps and screwdriver for the bellows part. This was pretty easy. The rubber bellows was leaking in the exact same place as the youtube video showed. This is a Design Flaw that LG needs to fix. Ordered the new part and installed the bellows portion of the part first, as the angle for that installation needs to be correct. Then attempted to install the end of the hose (very inaccesible) to the pump drain. Very difficult to position the factory supplied spring clamp with pliers so I purchased a screw-type clamp (using the nut-driver rather than a screw-driver to tighten the clamp was helpful) at the local hardware store and that made my job much easier. Note: My unit is mounted on a pedestal, so it was a little easier to access the part location (about one foot off the floor, rather than at floor level), but it may be that the part should be replaced from the bottom of the unit, which would make it much easier to access. Then I installed the other end of the hose to the drain line using a screw-type clamp. I am 69 years old, and not that flexible anymore, so getting down on the floor to reach inside the unit was difficult. You need patience to do this job and you have to make sure all the clamps are properly installed so you don't start the machine up and end up with another leak. For me, this process was difficult and took more than two hours to complete. Limited access to the area made it more difficult and I hate the factory clamps they use. Overall, the repair costs about $25, compared to the $125 just to come look at the machine, then more money to fix the unit. It was satisfying to complete the repair for a small amount of money, but not sure it was worth the aggravation.

Not knowing whether it was the pulley, tensioner, or drum roller I had previously pulled the dryer apart and noticed one roller shaft was rusty for some reason. When the part came in (which was quite fast)I disassembled the dryer to the point that I could remove the left rear drum roller. Replaced the roller and reassembled the dryer (to my surprise without any extra screws or parts left). Fairly easy job, just time consuming.

removed the top of the dryer first by removing screws in the back and pulling the top back and up. Removed the control panel, followed by the door. The front panel and top brace were then removed. The belt was disengaged by pulling the tensioner idler and working the belt off the motor pulley. The drum was lifted out and set aside with the other parts. Holding the motor shaft with vice-grip pliers, and turning the nut on the blower wheel (left-hand thread!)removed the blower wheel. The motor is held by snap-on retainers and easily removed and swapped. Installation is reverse of disassembly. While in there, cleaned out the lint gathered everywhere. Also constructed a heat shield out of aluminum flashing and foil tape to cover the foil and foam tape between the burner assembly and sheet metal side. The foam had actually burned at some point in the past and the flashing should act as a better heat shield. A relatively easy repair, but should not have been necessary in a 7 year old dryer.

Unplugged the dryer from the wall. Removed the back bracket holding the top on. Then the top will slide back and lift off. Next I removed the screws holding the control panel. Removed the door. Removed all the screws holding the front cover on. Removed the lent shoot. Manually rotated the tumbler. Checked both rollers in the front. Found one with the flat spot in it. Removed and replaced it.

First the delivery time was incredible, I ordered the part at 2pm on Mnday and recieved the drum Tuesday afternoon. I'm not sure how this was accomplished as I can't even mail a letter across town and receive the next day. Reoved front of dryer removed old drum and slid in new drum. only difficulty was the wiring disconnect on the control board, didn't want to come off. took 5 minutes to work loose.

The bellows hose on the bottom of the tube had worn through where it flexed. This was an easy job except for the long reach you had to make under the washer to reach the hose clamps that held the part in place. These were spring loaded clamps which were easy to remove with pliers. I replaced them with ones that could be tightened with a socket wrench since it was hard to replace the sprung clamps.

The repair went well and your parts are easy to find. This is the second time I have used your services and both times have been great. Your parts are at great prices and your delivery is a lot faster that one would think.
Thank you

Unscrewed the dryer latch on the dryer (not the piece on the dryer door) and screwed in the new piece! Bam, done and done. The ordering process was a snap, very friendly on the phone. She even emailed me a picture of the part before I ordered to make sure it was the right one, and was so patient with me, while my kids were sort of loud in the background. Thanks PartSelect.com, your part is quality and employee rocks.

Did the repair entirely from the back.- 4 screws back cover comes off. Once you see the Bellows it is obvious what needs to come off and there are other videos on the net showing this. The main things I did differently were 1) Leaned the washer forward and placed 3 2x4 blocks of wood under each back leg. This allowed me to reach under the washer with one hand, and through the back with the other. You need both hands in there ! 2) Uninstalling is easy with just pliers. But on the way back in, I used a pair of Locking Pliers to keep the circular clamp squeezed as much as possible. That seemed the only way to get the bellows back in. Another option would be to switch to screw on Pipe clamps instead of the spring clamps.

UNPLUG WASHER.Unscrew 4 screws holding silver plate at back of unit. Remove plate to expose inside of unit. Locate drain hose at bottom of washer tub. Hose connects at front drain, bottom of tub, and at rear at the pressure sensor. Front and rear simply slide clamps down by grasping clamp tabs and sliding clamp off connection point. Disconnect from tub bottom by loosening main clamp with Phillips screwdriver and pulling downward. Have a towel handy as there will be water in the hose, and it will pour out when removing it from the unit. Installation is the reverse of removal. ATTACH THE HOSE ASSEMBLY TO THE DRUM FIRST, THEN FRONT, THEN LASTLY REAR. This order is the easiest way, otherwise you will spend extra minutes trying to get the tub connection to seat properly. Plug it back in (duh), then you're good to go for another 4 years or so until another hole wears in the hose. I have performed this repair on 3 different units, with 4 years being the average lifespan of this part.

Unplugged dryer. Removed front panel. removed nut holding old igniter. Unplugged old igniter, plugged in new igniter, and mounted new igniter with screw using nut driver.

Followed instruction obtained from parts select. removed top. removed wires removed control panel removed front of dryer pulled out drum assemble changed rollers installed new drum reinstalled front of dryer installed controll panel hooked up wires installed top

Pull out dryer and unplug 220v. With phillips screwdriver, remove 3 screws from back of top and slide top panel back approx 2 inches and remove. Unplug 4 wire sets from rear of control panel. Remove 2 screws from back of control panel, carefully pull top edge and remove control panel. Remove 4 screws from top of front panel, as well as bottom 2 screws from inside dryer door. Disconnect door light wire near 10 o'clock. Pull top of front panel forward and lift off of tabs. Disconnect filter sensor wire under panel on the right. Remove 2 screws from each side of inner front panel and lift until tabs disengaged from side panels. Pull out bottom edge, carefully disengage inner front panel from drum and remove it. Try to turn roller wheels that are on the rear of the inner front panel. The wheel can get lint inside the wheel/axle and freeze. If one or both is stuck and won't turn easily, use a couple small flathead screwdrivers to carefully remove the plastic triangle retainer off of the roller assembly of the wheel that is stuck. You do not need to unbolt the axle from the panel. Wipe off the axle and inside of wheel with a clean, soft, lint-free cloth. If the wheel has a flat spot from being rubbed by the drum, you will need to replace it as I did or it will make a thumping sound after cleaned and put back together. Do NOT grease or oil the wheel/axle. This will lead to more lint collection and clogging/freezing. Reverse to put back together.

It only took about 5 minutes to fix the problem. Took out two screws, removed old part, put the new one on and replaced the screws. Works great now!