WGD71HEDW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Followed the instructions on your video.

Removed the lower front cover of the dryer. Removed the lint filter and removed the cover from the air duct by removing two 1/4" bolts. Removed the two 1/4" bolts retaining the thermistor. Installed the new thermistor and covers.

Turned off gas supply and disconnected gas line and disconnected vent. Removed old burner and replaced with new burner assembly, reconnected gas line and vent and tested, worked fine.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

We followed the on-line video which was very helpful but it took longer for us. But the part didn't fix the problem, so we had to go back on line and research it some more only to find that the more common cure for our problem was the gas coils which were even easier to replace and that did fix the problem.

Removed rear cover (6 screws) unpluged harness from motor control and removed same. Replaced motor control reinstalled harness. Replaced rear cover. Parts used motor control board.

I ended up taking the entire dryer apart when I didn't need to, and it turns out it wasn't the Igniter Kit in the first place but the thermal fuse in the back. Was pretty simple to repair in any case however.

On the Amana dryer, I had to remove the top panel. then the front panel to access the burner assembly. I also had to remove the gas pipe coming to the burner, because I replaced the tube burner assembly at the same time. There is only one screw that holds that back end of that gas pipe. The thermal flame sensor is on the left side of the burning chamber, with only one small Phillips head screw. just remove the 2 wires, keeping track of which terminal they belong. Just twist the sensor out of the small slot, and out it comes. The tube burner assembly is fastened with 2 screws. The entire burner assembly comes out in one piece, but be real careful not to bang the igniter when removing it. The coil assembly has 2 wires, which you cannot get wrong, because one has 2 prongs, the other has 3 wires.The local repair shop wanted 90 bucks per hour, plus parts, and I installed both the burner tube and radiant flame sensor for around $80.

This was by far so easy the instruction Partselect gave me where right on step by step. a repair man was going to charge 75$ just to come out 9$ from partselect. Thank you very much Mike chaplin

Unplugged electrical cord to dryer. removed the front cover 2 screws on the bottom. Lifted front cover off. Unplugged the 2 wires going to the old flame sensor. Used nut driver to remove 1 screw holding the flame sensor in. Removed old sensor replaced with new one. Reattached the 2 wires back on to the new flame sensor. Tested. Flame stayed on longer! Dryer works great dryer is 20 years old and still running like new now. Part was the exact match I needed.

First disconnect power to the machine. Remove lower access door locate the igniter connector and disconnect it. Now, remove the screw holding the igniter to the mounting bracket with a 5/16" box wrench, carefully remove the igniter. Replace the old mounting bracket but first start the igniter mounting screw in the new bracket, threading it in all the way and then removing it to make installation easier. Install the new bracket and then the igniter, Be very careful, the igniter is fragile. Holding the igniter securely, install the mounting screw. Reconnect the wire connector replace lower door and plug the machine in. Voila! heat!!

Initially thought it was the thermal fuse since that has already been replaced twice before for the same type of problem. After replacing the fuse the same issue remained, so I did a little hunting on the internet and found some matrixes to help diagnose the issue. After a couple of minutes, I discovered it was the ignitor. I immediately ordered the part and received it in about 5 business days. Even though that took longer than previous orders (usually < 3 days), I was still happy to get the part at a MUCH cheaper price than available locally. Installation took about 5 minutes with only a 5/16" nut driver and we were back in business. Kind of glad it broke because the dryer needed a good de-linting and cleaning anyway. : )

We only had to tilt the dryer enough to be able to screw the leveling leg in place.The only hard part was holding the dryer steady to screw in the leveling foot.

Removed back panel and tested all components. Everything was good so had to remove front to test last 2 components. Removed front and used brick (handy tool when your working solo) to hold drum up and in place (with full load of damp towels). Defective igniter. Testing all took 10 minutes, replacement took 2. Spent more time opening and putting machine back together than testing and replacement took.

Unplugged dryer from power source, used putty knife to release latches that hold top on, tilted the top out of the way, unplugged door lite, located the radiant switch, removed 1 screw,then undid 2 wires & lifted out switch. Reversed procedure plugged in dryer....wa la had dried a large load of clothes, took 1/3 the time to dry clothes at last. Thanks "PartSelect"