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Models > WGD336RBW1 > Instructions

WGD336RBW1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the WGD336RBW1
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Thump or clang at regular intervals while in operation
UNPLUGGED the dryer!!! Search this site they have instructions for many of the tasks they sell parts for... disconnect the vent hose, removed the access panel for the motor & belt (rear) (1/4 nut driver), slipped the belt off the idler pulley and motor pulley, carefully lifted the front edge of the top panel & rotated it back on the hinges, labeled and removed the door interlock wires (2), removed 4 screws securing the top of the front panel (5/16 nut driver) (magnetic is best), removed a yellow guide also attached to the top of the front support (5/16 nut driver), rotated the top of the front panel clear of the drum opening (while supported) and lifted the front panel off the bottom guides, carefully lifted the back of the drum straight up about an inch while supporting the front of the drum, remove the drum from the opening created by removing the front panel (the belt should come out with the drum, removed the rear parts of the new bearing (atteched to teh back of the dryer) 5/16 nut driver... you will need a helper to catch the ball bearing holder on the exterior back of the dryer in the middle, unscrew the drum half of the bearing assembly from inside the drum (3 phillips head screws). I have done this several years ago and you will be amazed at how much dust and lint there is... CLEAN AND VACUUM EVERYWHERE AND THEN ALL THE PLACES YOU MISSED DONT FORGET THE VENT HOSE. Clean all of the old grease from the back of the drum and dryer. Installation is the reverse of removal. Don't forget the new grease and DON"T loose the cute little ball bearing that comes in the new kit. There are lots of sharp metal edges inside so use caution and hopefully you got a new belt since belt replacement requires all of the same steps except for the actual bearing removal.

I can attest to this system only on my model since this is the second bearing I have done.

Sure beats the cost of a new dryer!!! Thanks PARTS SELECT This is the 5th appliance I have repaired for freinds and family with parts purchased from your site.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Scott D from East Fallowfield, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Broken dryer belt
1.Removed access panel on back of machine in order to place a block under the drum(see step 3).2. Removed the top (clips), 3.removed the front panel(clips), block placed under drum earlier prevents drum from tilting and makes removing front panel with door very easy.4. Slipped new belt on. 5.Replaced front panel and removed block under drum. 6. Aligned belt and checked movement of drum, 7. attched belt to pulley on motor and positioned belt tensioner.8. Installed top and access panels.
This repair is very straight forward, block under drum makes things easy, since the drum stays level when the front panel is removed and replaced.
Parts Used:
Drum Belt
  • Sean from Hewitt, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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New Belt slipped off pulley - drum won't rotate
Removed access door. Disengaged spring, removed old idler. Slipped belt around new idler and motor pulley. Difficulty is putting spring back and inserting idler pulley bracket back in place while there is a lot of tension from the belt. Finally used adjustable wrench as a mini hammer.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Assembly
  • Lawrence K from Harrisonburg, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Extremely noisy, grinding, old electric dryer.
Removed small panel at rear of dryer which allowed access to the Idler Pulley asembly. Easily removed, and replaced with new idler assembly. Fed belt onto new pulley and attached tension spring. Actually, this replacement idler pulley assembly is much better than the original. It has a shoulder to allow the belt to "track" better over drum and around motor pulley. Dryer is now extremely quiet, like a new machine. Hope to get another 29 (yes 29) years out of it. Extremely pleased. Doug East Lansing, Michigan
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Assembly
  • DOUGLAS from EAST LANSING, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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Dryer did not completely dry the clothes. It required several cycles to dry clothes.
I unplugged the dryer and pryed open the top by inserting a screw driver in the space 1inch from the top on the side. After i opened it and lifed it up, I removed the one screw on both sides found in the inner part towards the front top. I then removed the front panel. The coils are toward the bottom left side. They are held in by a bracket which is held in by 2 screws. I removed the outer screw and loosened the inner screw. ( you can remove both screws but it was not necessary).I then swumg the bracket around and was able to lift out the coils. I removed the connectors and relaced the coils. Once done I re-assembled the dryer. The problem was solved.
Parts Used:
M Series Ignition Coil Kit
  • Lester from CHICAGO, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Gas burner worked sometimes only.
Dryer was working, only burner was working occasionally only. So, in result the drying time was very long, and clothes were cold and still not satisfactionally dry; occasionally only it was hot. It became obvious to me that gas burner only occasionally is working. On the Internet I found some instructables, mostly on YouTube, but also on this site (the Burner diagram): thus I have learned that the culprit must be the two tiny ignition coils: they worked only sometimes, so it was only a jeopardy when checking them using a continuation meter (voltmeter with continuation feature). For the access to the burner combo I used a small checking door right below the large door, in front wall of the dryer. There are only two small screws which hold a small piece of metal which cover these tiny coils. However, I had to disconnect the burner from gas pipe to get better access to those screws. (Of course, I also disconnected the dryer from power and I had to disconnect those wire connections on the burner combo to get access to the burner). It works perfectly after this repair.
Parts Used:
M Series Ignition Coil Kit
  • Marek from CHICAGO, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Dryer making metal on metal noise....
Just like in the video, but with a stackable washer/dryer unit, works like new now....
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • James from RACINE, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer made a loud squeaking noise was ready to get a new one
I first diagnosed the problem using a Google search. Amazing how many hits I got and after reading a few was pretty certain what the cause was and what parts I probably needed to make the repair.
Some of the articles I read had links or mentioned PartSelect, so I searched for my model # and found the parts I would probably need. Knowing that I could probably get the parts I needed I disassembled the dryer (pretty easy really) and removed the old suspect part. It was devoid of lubricant and the bearing and ball showed some wear so I ordered the Bearing Assembly suggested by PartSelect (the illustrations looked just like my old parts). I left the dryer disassembled while I waited for the part, figuring it would take a week or so to arrive.
Much to my surprise, the part arrived three days later and after cleaning the dryer innards of all collected lint I put it all back together in 30 minutes.
So for a little research, a $30 part, and about an hour of my time, I have a clean and quiet operating dryer. I see no reason I can't get another 10 or so years out of it.
I consider myself a reasonably handy guy but had never worked on a dryer before. I'll be unlikely to ever call a repairman without first doing some investigation and seeing if the parts are available. With the internet and PartSelect I think I could take on a lot of other repairs I'm not familiar with. Thanks for a great outcome this time around.
Kevin
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Kevin from Kennewick, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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The drum was not rotating smooth. It was noisy and the belt broke loose
I replaced the drum kit and belt.
Parts Used:
Drum Belt Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Isaias from LAREDO, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Heat was intermittent
Unplug dryer.
Put up the top of the dryer at the front, remove 2 screws holding the front of the dryer to the sides and remove front of dryer. Locate ignition coil on lower left. Remove 2 screws and bracket over the two ignition coils. Replace coils and reassemble in reverse.
Everybody's happy.
Parts Used:
M Series Ignition Coil Kit
  • mark from santa cruz, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Flame would come on and go out,and little or no heat
Unhooked power,shut off gas, pulled top cover off,two Philips screws one on each side hold the front panel in.took belt off, pulled drum,than change out, flame sensor,M coils,and igniter,be careful igniter breaks very easy,I broke my new one so had to use my old one so really the problem with no heat was either the Mcoils or the flame sensor
Parts Used:
Igniter Upper Drum Glide M Series Ignition Coil Kit Flame Sensor
  • Gary from Columbus, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Drum Glide worn out - loud screeching noise.
I popped the top lid of the dryer which has hinges in the rear allowing it to be lifted. This exposes the drum. The front panel then can be detached using a nut driver and phillips screwdriver. The door shut off switch must be then removed so the front panel can be pulled away. I used an adjustable wrench to remove the lock nut. Once the front panel is clear of the drum, the felt and nylon glides are exposed. I removed the felt using a paint scraper, and cleaned the adhesive residue with lacquer thinner. The provided high temperature adhesive was then applied, I waited a minute per the directions, then applied the new felt and glides. The dryer reassembles in reverse of the above disassembly, making sure not to forget to reinstall the door switch. I plugged the dryer back in, and ran a load of laundry in quiet efficiency. Your part arrived quickly, the directions were good, and the dryer now works wonderfully.
Parts Used:
Upper Drum Glide
  • Jack from Phoenix, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Dryer Belt Broke & Would Not Spin
First I pulled up on top panel. Next I removed the two screws holding on the front panel on. Next I pulled forward and front panel pulls out. I cleaned the old upper & lower drum glide & drum seal using a razor blade. I used the high temp glue that came with the top glide. I glued them both on & let sit for about half hour. While the glued dried I installed new belt & belt idler pulley. I re-assembled the front panel while lining up the drum. Re-installed the 2 screws. Snapped the top panel back in place. Plugged it back in & turned it on. Awesome noise was gone & working great.
Parts Used:
Upper Drum Glide Front Drum Seal
  • ROBERT from LAKE ELSINORE, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Lint screen had separated from frame letting lint into vent.
New screen and holder came in, removed screws holding the holder in place and reinstalled new one & dropped the screen in place.
Parts Used:
Lint Screen and Frame
  • George W. from Wallkill, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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clothes get stuck and burn in upper drum glide
Found the promblem as described at this site while looking for diagrams for the dyer. Repair went as described. Once I removed the old upper drum glide I used acetone to remove old glue. Cleaned up fast and easy. Once installed I let cure for about an hour and then reassembled. Let it cure for about an hour more and then I used the dyer. I could feel that the gap around the front of the drum was again narrow so that my finger tip would not slide into a grove. So far so good.
Parts Used:
Upper Drum Glide
  • DOUGLAS from CHILLICOTHE, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the WGD336RBW1
121 - 135 of 431