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WFMC3301UC (15) Bosch Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the WFMC3301UC
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
We got E13 code, meaning "something" is in the pump--needs clean out. We cleaned out and it worked only once more:( A small plastic peice was cracked and let water and "junk" into the pump--a total loss.
My husband took off the back of the washer and disconnected the hose that connected the pump to the main drum. He has strong fingers--did it that way--but really you need a pillars. After putting it all back together we got another weird code--E29 and the door wouldn't lock. But after turning everything off and waiting 30 minutes, the genius machine just suddenly reset itself and started working correctly. No problems since and we've done about 30 loads since then. While on the phone with Bosch, trying to learn how to clear the new code, I heard only, "We only give information to certified repairmen and home repairs are definitely not covered by the warranty." Who cares? I'm now a satisfied mom who is actually washing clothes after only two days waiting for shipping--IF I could get any repairman to my house this month I'd be surprised and not for cheaper than the price of a new washer! Thank you for your great parts:)
Parts Used:
Drain Pump - 120V 60Hz
  • Sheriann from GLENN, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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The inlet valve on my washer was leaking
Turned off the water to the washer. Took the top off of the washer. Used pliers to loosen the rings holding the hoses to the valve. After the hoses were removed from the valve I popped out the old inlet valve. I put the new inlet valve in place and put the hoses and rings back on. Secured the top of washer back on the washer turned the water back on. No leak present.
Parts Used:
Cold Water Inlet Valve
  • Donna from HUNTERSVILLE, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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The sleeves on this model washer are two different sizes see below
The thickness of the sleeves are 3.0 mm thick on the base of the sleeve. However the sleeve on the bottom of both the upper and lower hinges of this model washer are different sizes. The base of the sleeve on the top of each hinge post is 3.0 mm but the sleeve on the bottom post of each hinge is only 1.2 mm thick. The bracket on the door that holds all 4 screws to attach the door to the washer will not fit unless you reuse the old sleeve from the lower posts or reduce the thickness of the disc on the lower post to 1.2 mm. I spent hours trying to get the door back on and finally saw why I couldn't get the screws back in because the bracket could not go in place and sit flush the the washer.
Parts Used:
SLEEVE
  • David from ENTERPRISE, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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E:12 error code displayed, frequently had to reset washer during cycle
Shut off water supply to washer, unplugged from power. Removed two Torx screws holding the top panel of the washer on (screws are on the back). Slid top back, then lifted up and off. Located cold water inlet valve. Squeezed hose clams with needle nose pliers and slid the two hoses off valve. Disconnected wire harness (look for push tab) from valve. With a little work figured out how to pop valve out of its opening. Installed new valve in its place and re-connected all hookups. Reattached top to washer, plugged and in reconnected water. Ran a test load, then another - no more errors!
Parts Used:
Cold Water Inlet Valve
  • Ian from HUDSON, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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The solenoid had sprung a leak
Removed screws from top cover. Slid the cover backs 1/4 inch, and lifted it off. Removed the wire harness by depressing the tab, and pulling it off. Depressed the tab in the back of the water inlet valve, slid it slightly forward and pulled it out. Installed the new part in reverse order.
Parts Used:
Cold Water Inlet Valve
  • Chris from ATHENS, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Extremely long run times and error codes
Unplug the power cord, remove and clean out drain hose. Remove back access panel. Unplug wiring harness, remove both drain hoses from old pump. Have a wet/dry shop vac ready and running to help avoid a mess. Reconnect both drain hoses and wiring harness to new pump and replace back access panel. Do laundry.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump - 120V 60Hz
  • Daniel from GODDARD, KS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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No hot water going into the washer when hot washes selected
After doing research, I ordered a new hot water inlet valve. After that arrived, I:
1. Turned off the water going into the washer and unplugged it.
2. Pulled the washer away from the wall and unscrewed the cold and hot water intakes to check the filters and make sure they were both clear.
3. Unscrewed the two screws (they were hex heads, so they needed a socket wrench) in the back of the washer (right and left sides) that were holding the top on. Once removed, I removed the top cover to the washer by pushing it back slightly, then popping it off.
4. Used the pliers to loosen the metal clamp attaching a rubber hose to the old hot water inlet valve - disconnected that hose by scooting the clamp back away from the valve and pulling the hose off.
5. Removed the old inlet valve (takes some finagling) and placed the new valve in an identical position.
6. Reattached the hose and clamp to the new inlet valve.
7. Reattached the hot and cold water lines to the washer.
8. Replaced the washer cover and two screws.
9. Turned the water back on and pushed the washer back into place and plugged it back in.
10. Tested a hot water cycle. Fixed!
Parts Used:
Hot Water Inlet Valve
  • SARAH from TIJERAS, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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washer not draining
we watched a thorough you tube video which described each step and showed it being done, he made it look pretty easy but unforeseen elements such as rust etc took time but not obscenely so, just keep screws from each step separate and it's difficult just takes patience and a little time to get to the actual part, in fact that is the easy part taking it out and replacing it.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump - 120V 60Hz
  • Claudia from IDLEDALE, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Simple
Once you find a T-20 screw driver, it is easy.
Remove top by unscrewing two screws from rear and sliding top back about an inch.
Slide electronic plug out from old unit.
Use pliers to remove two hose clamps. Remove hoses.
Use flat head screwdriver to push old unit to the left when facing back of machine.
Put in new unit. Slide in plug. Reconnect hoses slide clamps back over hoses.
The hardest part was placing the top back on by aligning two tabs and sliding the top back in.
Replace tow screws.
Parts Used:
Cold Water Inlet Valve
  • Andrew from WILLISTON PK, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Water pump cracked
Look up how to repair on you tube. Removed control panel door and front panel as shown to expose water pump. Removed both hose. Showed how to release water pump from under machine ( I use vibrating cutter to cut rubber feet that held in place) this was much easier than way shown in video. Caution when putting hose clamp Bach on make sure it is all the way on. If not you will have water leak drain hose come off. But panels on . Be careful not to damage door lock 124 dollars if you do. Over all very easy to replace
Parts Used:
Drain Pump - 120V 60Hz
  • Donald from CLARKSVILLE, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Drain pump quit working
Took small door off front of machine pulled pump and unhooked wires. Hooked wires back up to new pump and installed
Parts Used:
Drain Pump - 120V 60Hz
  • mike from gothenburg, NE
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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washer would not drain
Took off top and back panels. Secured tub. Laid on side. Removed old pump. Cleaned up excess water with shopvac. Installed new pump. Tilt upright. Remove material used to secure tub. Reinstalled panels. Unplug everything before repair and use gloves. I cut up my hands on the panel to access pump.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump - 120V 60Hz
  • KEVIN from FORT MYERS, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the WFMC3301UC
1 - 12 of 12