WFG525S0HT1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Removed bottom panel. Unscrewed igniter. Replaced igniter. Reinstalled panel. Started oven before replacing panel. Easy install.

My oven was assembled at the factory with half a hinge in left side ( no giant spring assembly) and in 15 months the right side hinge twisted and collapsed from bearing all the weight. First I thought I was only dealing with one bad hinge, and took the screws out of one side of door only and replaced hinge and was done in five minutes. Watched YouTube videos which were great and did the repair . Then I noticed the other hinge had no tension on it and did a complete disassembly of door and compared hinges and discovered the other shoddy assembly. I recommend you try to replace one hinge at a time. Take out screws on one side and finagle hinge into place. I did not do this and it took a long time. Rated repair difficulty due to several parts of oven door need to be aligned correctly to get the screws back in. Getting one side aligned caused the other side to become mis-aligned. Not rocket science but requires a lot of patience as you will redo it many times. I screwed the new hinges/steel channels they sit in into the inner door to help reduce the number of moving parts. Then aligned and secured door parts. I cut a 6” piece of straight wire from a coat hanger and stuck it through the screw holes to line them up. Worked very well, and after door was screwed together then I finally screwed the hinges to the outer door.

I have removed this piece once before and painted it,
but it is difficult to prepare surface.

I tried to replace the part without removing the door
but had difficulty getting the screws to line up.

So, I took the door off. Forgot that you are supposed to jam
the spring hinges in the open position before you remove the door. Manual describes how to do this but picture is not very helpful. So I made two wooden dowels about 3/8" in dia by about 3/4" long. Opened the hinge with a screwdriver and jammed the dowels in place.

Door Trim went on easily and the oven door went back on quickly.

Surprised they don't make this trim piece with rust proof material.

Simply removed three screws that held the door trim in place. Once the screws are removed be carefull because the front door glass is held in place by the bottom door trim. Otherwise an extremely easy repair.

Remove 2 screws holding oven bottom in place.Lift out the plate and replace with new plate. The hardest part of the replacement was lining up the screw holes. By the way i have never received such great service from any internet company as Part Select. I ordered the part on a Monday and the part was at my home the NEXT DAY and installed that evening.

Bought new igniter.
Pulled stove from wall and turned off gas and disconnected power cord.
Removed oven racks.
Removed oven floor.
Removed heat shield/dissipater thing.
Removed 2 screws holding igniter to gas burner tube.
Disconnected the wire (this was harder than expected because igniter had only a few inches slack in the wires), took off back to try to find better access to wires, no help there, door was not easily removable so difficult to reach in with 2 hands to pull wires apart, eventually I got it.
Connected new wires.
Replaced igniter to feeder tube with 2 screws.
Plugged back in, turned gas back on and tested.
Reassembled heat shield thing, oven floor, racks.
Done.

Ordered both parts using the excellent breakdown illustrations of the door. Received the parts along with video instructions on how to repair.

Remove;
Bottom drawer- pull open and lift up slightly when fully open then pull the drawer the rest of the way out.
Unplug ignitor terminal- there is a small tang inside the terminal end that needed pressed out of the small hole of the ignitor, with a pick.
Oven racks.
Oven bottom- 2 long phillips screws at the back. lift the back up 1st then the front comes up and out.
Burner diffuser- 2 small phlilips at front (they only prevent the diffuser from sliding, they don't screw into anything). slide diffuser forward out of the notch then lift the front up. pull rear tabs out of the notches to completely remove.
Ignitor- two 8mm (5/16) bolts holding ignitor to burner. pull ignitor out of guide holes.
Reverse to install new ignitor.

Remove three screws, slid old trim piece off door. Slid new trim in place. Used ice pick to align screw holes and replaced screws. Total time about 15 minutes. Tip: used a bead of silicone sealer on the new trim strip to prevent moisture from causing new strip to rust.

Removed two screws holding the bottom in, pulled out old bottom, inserted new bottom, replaced screws and tightened them. Total time less than five minutes.

Turned off power to range. Removed the lower panel that was secured by two screws, as well as the metal cover beneath it also secured by screws.. Removed the two screws securing the igniter, and pulled apart the black tubing that secured the igniter. (I had to pull hard to get it apart). Plug the new end into that same black tubing. screw in the two screws to secure the new igniter (this is tricky because one screw is hard to reach) I laid something in the base to cover the holes so I wouldn't lose a screw if it dropped. Screw metal panel back in, followed by the lower oven panel.

took the handle off, replaces the side trim piece and replaced the handle. Very simple!

Just took the bottom cover off the bottom of the stove, pulled the old igniter and put the new one on.

This did not solve my problem.
What do I need to do next?

Putting the drawer glides on was easy. My range drawer did not have any glides on so my drawer would fall out. The drawer glides popped right on the drawer. The glides for the track were easy to screw into the body of the range. I had to bend the tracks up a little on each side with a pair of pliers. One glide would go onto the track and the other one would go on top of the track. After bending them a little I was able to push them onto the track.at the same time.