WFE550S0LB2 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I shut off the breaker to the stove. I removed 2 screws from the underside of the cooktop at the front of the unit. I raised the cooktop and had my helper hold the top at an angle to access the burner. I removed 2 screws attached to the burner and then loosened the 2 clips and moved them to release the burner. I transferred the electrical connections from the old to the new. Reinstalled the burner and cooktop. Turned the breaker on, tested the new burner and I was fone

First Things first, unplug unit, remove rear cover with Phillips head screwdriver, disconnect, wires from broiler element which is the top, one, open oven, unscrew top screws first, then two at the back, wiggle out element, then reverse Steps , test repair before putting cover back on. Then ta-da, you saved yourself a $300. Service call to the appliance repair guy.

Remove 2 screws inside oven holding element . Remove screws holding back panel. Plug wires (2) into new element.Install back panel . Done.

Ordered new element from PartSelect. It arrived shortly. It did not match the original. Guy at appliance store explained how I could connect the wires on the new one. It still did not fix the problem. A repair man tried for 2.5 hours to fix it with no success. Now I will return the replacement element in the return envelope provided.

Since the instructions and templates included didn't apply to my unit I had to improvise. The new Bump Out Bracket was way sturdier and thicker than the factory one removed. Very nice bracket!
Measuring down the wall from where the back of the cabinet actually touches the wall, down to the same distance as the microwave height (@ 15.5") I made a level line on the wall.
I positioned the bump out so the microwave would rest on the support at that measurement so when swinging the microwave into place the back top edge of the microwave would rest just below the wood of the cabinet. ( I went 1/8" lower to be safe). Then secured in place with two wall studs (I got lucky to find two) and two toggle bolts, one at either end of the upper bump out bracket.
Measured the distance for my front support screws in the upper cabinet and drilled two 5/16" holes. Used the same mounting screws in the upper cabinet and a flat washer on each for safety.

Video said to remove screws and lift stove top off, remove contacts and ground. My stove top was hinged and required me to lift and pivot stovetop up. The burners were anchored to the stove base not the top. I secured the topso that it would not drop down and proceeded with repair

Two screws to remove glass top. 2 connectors to remove. Removed glass top and put it upside down. Remove 4 wires and 2 Phillips screws. Reverse steps.

Our repair was extrodinarily easy. As my husband was taking out the old element and the oven was off, the element heated up and actually burned him. He readjusted it and it refused to heat again. We figured at that point that there must be a short, so we never even opened the box with the new element. A short time later we decided to use the top of the stove for soup and a small fire started in the oven. We turned off the braker at that point and ordered a new oven.

ordered new broiler pan

just needed clearner for the top of my glass top, the operator was very helpful I received my clearniner in 7 days thank you

Templates provide in kit superseded those with microwave for mounting. This was somewhat easier than other options because we do not have a n exterior vent hookup. The template for the holes in the above cabinet needs to be positioned perfectly to make sure you drill the hole in EXACTLY the right place. Otherwise, this was straightforward.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Unplug power. Remove panel on the back. Unplug heater.From front remove 3 screws and remove heater. Installed new heater. On the back restored connections - squized the lugs to have better connection. Put panel back. Plug the power and see if the coil get red. It looked good. Used oven few times it works fine. Difficoult part is to clean oven all around from accumulated grease. First repair for this stove, most of the time spend on figuring out what to open, no instructions.

Easy change! Two screws in front and grounding strap screw-lifted out and turned stove top upside down on table. three more screws for burner element and then reinstall with first two screws and grounding strap screw.

Removed original broiler element, and found it was open. Replaced with new element.