WFC315S0JS1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Replaced the drip bowls, very simple. Excellent delivery time, ordered them Saturday, delivered Tues morning.

Element burned out, ordered from Sears. Took over 2 weeks to get, originally sent wrong burner then shipped second one to wrong address. When I installed element I found that switch was also burned out . I ordered it from Parts Select & it was in the stove in 24 hours from the time I ordered it on line. Be assured I know where I will order my parts from now on

Replaced the burner switch.

Snapped in the new drawer glide. Took less than 5 minutes.

Just cut the old receptacle wires and splice in new kit. Very simple and worked perfectly.

Unplugged unit, removed plate behind control panel, removed 5 or 6 wire connectors, pulled off burner switch knob and removed 2 screws that holds switch in place. Reversed the procedure and was done.

Take off the back panel of stove and unplugged timer motor and switch on door latch assembly,removed two screws that hold assembly and slide rod off. I put 110 volt plug to timer motor and it did not move, that is how I diagnosed problem. Ordered new assembly (cannot buy just timer motor)put new door latch assembly on and worked fine. Of course unplug stove before you start !

changing the part itself was easy, but the sheet metal covering the whole back of the oven was difficult to remove because of some screws that were stripped. The new sensor solved the problem.

since I only had one of two screws, i installed with just the one. it would not work at all using a slightly longer screw, which is very odd.

due to the cooktop age, part was not an exact duplicate. I had to drill new holes in the stainless steel for mounting and ground wire. I used a lot of kitchen matches to heat the shrink tubes over the twist connectors. I should have gotten a heat gun or torch.

The detection of the part and the replacement of the upper spray arm was quite easy, because of its unique shape and function, and also because it was easy to screw in place. I saved the web order page in case this part tends to deteriorate frequently, even though it is the first time it showed this problem since we purchased this appliance.

After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.

Contrary to instructions(go thru front of oven) I had to pull out the range, remove two (2) screws from back chassis. At this point you pull out the connector, snap in new, reverse proceedure. Very simple. Hardest part is cleaning up debris generated by moving range.

First, I turned off the power at the switch box. Moved the stove out (That was a problem, because I am 80 years young) Removed the back panel, and moved the wires one at a time to the new switch. Removed the selector, then removed the 2 screws holding the switch in. Installed the new switch installed the dial selector, turned the power back on, and checked the burner. It works as advertised!!!!! Moved the stove back to its original position, and got a hug from my wife. PHEW!!! Now I think I'll take a nap.

The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.