WDT910SSYB0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

After I finally got the right parts and installed them I discovered that even though I had bought the OEM part for my dishwasher it not only didn't fit but prevented me from even getting the upper rack back in the dishwasher. The dishwasher won't work with out the upper rack properly in place. Every part store I looked at offered the same part for my dishwasher so obviously Whirlpool made a huge mistake. Since it's not possible to get the old parts back on (one of them was broken anyway which is what started all of this) I had to buy a new dishwasher. I did contact Whirlpool by email but got no response. If you own a Whirlpool dishwasher be very cautious buying any replacement parts.

parts were an exact fix to my problem the on line video was perfect repair was done in under 30 min
thanks
keith
bluffdale, utah

Removed 2 screws that fasten dishwasher to underside of countertop. Pulled dishwasher out from under the countertop for access to sides. Hooked link on door, threaded cord around 2 wheels, hooked spring to back of dishwasher, stretched spring and hooked to eye on end of link cord. I found it very difficult to hook spring to link then try and stretch spring to hole at back of dishwasher. Easier to pull spring and link towards each other and connect. Note: This link was actually different from the original. The plastic end that connects to the door actually hits the first wheel when door is closed but it doesn't seem to prevent the door from locking properly (old design was better). However, I shaved this plastic end to provide better clearance.

thought it could be due to the overfill control switch,so ordered one and replaced one in the washer. However, it did not solve the problem. Having a repair company coming to look at the dishwasher. Tipped the washer on its back and switch was readily accessable. Only had to open plastic covering over the switch, disconnect the wires and install new switch and reconnect the wires.

My wife hired a local repairman when the right side spring cable broke (I was out of town). He took two hours to fix it (and two appointments). The door would then pop open when running. He came back and replaced the latch. Problems persisted. I then ordered new hinges and replaced both in half hour or so. Would recommend doing all of these repairs yourself. None of these repairs are that hard and definitely not worth paying hundreds to do it. Trickiest part is pulling the dishwasher out from the counter without impacting the electrical or water connections. Disconnecting the power is important on all repairs. When you take the screws out of the door to get to the hinges, make sure you have a helper just to hold the door up while removing the last few screws. The left side hinge was really bent (when the right side spring cable broke) - caused the door to be out of square and thus would not effectively close. This was obvious after a 5 minute search on this this and other repair sites. Process that I used: 1. remove screws from both sides holding dishwasher into counter (may have screws into countertop as well). 2. turn off power, 3. pull out dishwasher far enough to see hinges and springs (careful of connections), 4. remove front door screws, 5. take off front panel, 6. remove spring cables (pull cable taut and remove "hook" from hinge)., 7. unscrew two screws holding hinge to door, 8. bend metal fingers around hinge pin to be able to remove hinge., 9. attach hinge in opposite path. 10. repeat on other side (if necessary), 11. reconnect things in opposite order...test door prior to reattaching door panel. Make sure you level the unit with the adjustable feet. Make sure screws in sides of cabinet aren't too tight as it can take the unit out of square pretty easily...

Pulled off old seal found center of new seal and pushed new seal into channel that old seal came out of starting at top middle underneath the latch

Replacement parts from factory installed using u tube support video


Also replaced stop ends for top rack by removing old clip in to push down and lined up to secure in slots at end of rack, notice new plastic parts are installed by pushing hardware into slots downward until they clip into place

Looked on you-tube and it was so easy. Pump on bottom right. unplug pump and do a halfway turn. Plug the new one up and place the pump on, and turn halfway and its on. START your dishwasher

Pulled off old seal. Pressed into groove the new door seal. No parts required.

I followed the video on the site and it worked perfectly!

watched video took less than 5 min to replace veeeery easy to do

Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

With a little pressure, I was able to push off the broken wheel pieces with my thumbs. I was able to snap on the new wheel pieces really easily.
This job took less than 15 minutes to replace all 4 wheel pieces.

Snapped right in. 30 seconds and done.

Gently pull the old door seal out of it's track observing the orientation of the seal and the amount of extra seal at the ends of the seal grove/track..
Start installing the seal on one side leaving about the same amount of extra seal as original seal before removal.
Be sure the seals orientation is the same as the seal that was removed.
Carefully pressing the seal into the grove/track designed to hold the seal. Be careful to fully seat the seal into the grove/track.
The corners will be a little tricky, but carefully press and seat the new door seal all the way around. There should be a little extra seal after you get to the end of the grove/track.
Good luck, the new door seal solved my water leak.