WDP370PAHW2 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

thought it could be due to the overfill control switch,so ordered one and replaced one in the washer. However, it did not solve the problem. Having a repair company coming to look at the dishwasher. Tipped the washer on its back and switch was readily accessable. Only had to open plastic covering over the switch, disconnect the wires and install new switch and reconnect the wires.

Replacement parts from factory installed using u tube support video


Also replaced stop ends for top rack by removing old clip in to push down and lined up to secure in slots at end of rack, notice new plastic parts are installed by pushing hardware into slots downward until they clip into place

Removed 2 screws that fasten dishwasher to underside of countertop. Pulled dishwasher out from under the countertop for access to sides. Hooked link on door, threaded cord around 2 wheels, hooked spring to back of dishwasher, stretched spring and hooked to eye on end of link cord. I found it very difficult to hook spring to link then try and stretch spring to hole at back of dishwasher. Easier to pull spring and link towards each other and connect. Note: This link was actually different from the original. The plastic end that connects to the door actually hits the first wheel when door is closed but it doesn't seem to prevent the door from locking properly (old design was better). However, I shaved this plastic end to provide better clearance.

Only one friction sleeve was broken. So I pulled out the dishwasher to see how the one on the other side went on. It was very easy to replace and I replaced both. Unit works fine now.

Snap in the missing track stop and twist snap the middle spray arm. That simple.

Open door and remove 12 T15 torx screws. Note that the 4 along the top edge are longer than the 8 along the sides. Lift the door panel upwards to remove the panel. Remove 6 screws securing the soap dispenser and metal bracket. Unplug the cable on the right side by pressing down on the locking tab. Note the position of the black plastic sheet that covers the back of the dispenser, and the white insulator on the right side. open the door part way and press down on the release for the dispenser on the outside of the door. The dispenser can now be removed from the inside of the door. Install the new dispenser and snap in place. Put the metal bracket back in place with the insulators and secure with the 6 screws. Re-install the shorter screws first, then the longer ones across the top.

quick and easy replacement, without tools...

i ordered the wrong part and received the new part and credit for the old part, quickly...Plus, I was kept informed with e-mails....

excellent service...

First, I bought the door balance link to replace the broken links that connect to the springs.

Because I didn't have enough slack to simply pull out the dishwasher far enough to reach the springs, I had to disconnect the water line and electrical wiring.
The only reason my repair took as long as it did was because there was so little room underneath the dishwasher for disconnecting the water line. I had to buy a shorter adjustable wrench. Also, I had leaks after reconnecting the water line. I had to tighten the compression nut as far as it would go. The nut wrapped around a white substance that had been applied to the threads (I believe this is called pipe tape), which did the trick for sealing the leak.

The repair was a complete success! The parts arrived fast and the information from other customers on the the PartsSelect website was invaluable.

Put in both a new element and thermostat. Did not fix problem. Using an ohm meter I did not measure any voltage to the thermostat. Suspect it’s a problem in the control unit, and decided to replace dishwasher.

Thanks to everyone for posting their experiences on changing the heater element. The most difficult part of the repair was getting the dishwasher out of the cabinet. I didn't know that I should disconnect the water line underneath the sink and this would make the removal easier. Also, because the copper water line going to the dishwasher was kinked, I ended up changing it with a flexible steel braided line.....much easier to install.

Once the dishwasher was out of the cabinet, I turned it over and easily removed the clips that held the heater element in.

I would definetly recommend people doing this repair themselves, it will save you a lot of money!!!!!

-Unplugged the dishwasher.
-Removed dish racks, filters and spray arms.
-removed drain pump and drain lines.
-unplugged turbidity sensor and power connectors.
-unlocked the 3 locking connectors, removed the pump and motor assembly.
- cleaned every component with soap and water.
- applied rinse aid to the motor and pump assembly gasket.
-placed pump and motor assembly into the correct position and had a helper hold the assembly down while I locked in the connectors.
-work backwards.

Took old one off , installed new one!!

I read how other people had the same problem, I checked everything that could possibly cause this. I then believed I knew what was wrong. I ordered a new arm. It was unbelievable how easy it was to replace.it. It took less time than a minute. . Turn the nut holding the arm counter clockwise to remove the arm. To replace turn the nut clockwise I now have a working dishwasher. It is not necessary to remove the dish rack.

The top and bottom parts of the lower wash arm were separating. This caused water to spray out the ends of the wash arm and come out the front of the dishwasher. In addition this water was not spraying upward resulting in dishes not getting cleaned. Took me a while to figure this out but the repair was simple.

Very easy to twist off the old pump and replace with new part. Worked perfect after replacement! We just followed you tube instructions