WDF310PCAD1 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Followed the easy how-to video from PS. It was as easy as changing a light bulb.

The water valve float lever was broke. So I replaced that and the water level switch. Probably didn’t have to replace switch. Very easy!!

I turned off the power to the dishwasher, removed the kick plate, raised the front levelers, disconnected the electric to the appliance, turned off the water supply to the appliance, disconnected the water supply, disconnected the drain system from the garbage disposal, unscrew the appliance from the countertop, then I remove the appliance from underneath the counter. I then tilted the appliance back and then in screwed the plastic retainers that held the heater element in place, removed the old one, replaced it with the new one in reversed the whole process

thought it could be due to the overfill control switch,so ordered one and replaced one in the washer. However, it did not solve the problem. Having a repair company coming to look at the dishwasher. Tipped the washer on its back and switch was readily accessable. Only had to open plastic covering over the switch, disconnect the wires and install new switch and reconnect the wires.

Looked on you-tube and it was so easy. Pump on bottom right. unplug pump and do a halfway turn. Plug the new one up and place the pump on, and turn halfway and its on. START your dishwasher

You only need to pull it out about 6 to 8 inches and you don’t need to disconnect anything to slide it on

I had to watch a You Tube Video and the Repair was basically snapping these parts on the rack and glide. No tools needed!

Removed the old hose, after loosing metal looking rings. Installed new hose ad finally tight firmly the looking rings, using wrench and socket.

Took out old rack by twisting the rack supports. Used old supports because in good shape. Removed the wand from old rack and placed on new rack. Then replaced the supports. Worked great.

Repair was a "no brainer". Pulled out the old gasket, started the replacement of the new gasket in the lower right hand corner and worked all the way around the opening, then trimmed excess gasket of about 2" with a pair of scissors and I was done. Total time - less than 5 minutes.

I opened the dishwasher door, removed the old tired seal in a manner of seconds. I measured the old seal against the new, same length, so no cutting. I started on one side pushing the seal in to the groove, made sure the seal was centered in the door. (not too long on one side or the other) It took less than 5 minutes to place the seal and check that it was all the way in, all around the door. I wiped the door down with some cleaner, where it contacts the seal. The door was harder to close, but I expected that until it breaks in. I ran a short load in the dishwasher with no leaks. :)

I removed the front of the dishwasher. Then removed the old dispenser assembly, and installed the new one. I don't have as many tools as I need here in our winter residence, so the job took a few more minutes than it would if I'd have had the correct tools.

Thanks to everyone for posting their experiences on changing the heater element. The most difficult part of the repair was getting the dishwasher out of the cabinet. I didn't know that I should disconnect the water line underneath the sink and this would make the removal easier. Also, because the copper water line going to the dishwasher was kinked, I ended up changing it with a flexible steel braided line.....much easier to install.

Once the dishwasher was out of the cabinet, I turned it over and easily removed the clips that held the heater element in.

I would definetly recommend people doing this repair themselves, it will save you a lot of money!!!!!

The repair went okay. The problem was that the dishwasher would not run after the installation of the dispenser. The door was taken apart 2-3 times. I told my husband (the repair man) that we should pull out the dishwasher so I could clean behind it. I asked him 4 or 5 times to pull out the dishwasrer. Never an answer. Mind you he is an electrician by trade now retired. For some reason while I was not looking he did pull the unit out after 2 hours of fussing with this electrical problem. Remember he is an electrican by trade. When he pulled the unit out "THE PLUG WAS OUT OF THE SOCKET". How funny!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I could not stop laughing. I had to answer the phone at that time and my friend thought I was out of breath from running for the phone. I told her later it was from the PLUG OUT OF SOCKET TRICK. I still am laughing. The first thing an repair mann will ask you is if the unit is pluged in. I have two sons and one son-in-law that are electricans and will have many years of fun telling this story. It is good to laugh. I will be laughing for a long time.

simply line up the new pin with the rectangular slot in the kick panel and metal panel behind, slide the pin in and turn it with a flat blade screw driver.
NOTE: the original pin was black. A black replacement part cost $29 plus shipping! A knock-off pin was only $6 plus shipping. I got the cheap one and colored it with a black Sharpee marker before installation.