WC401 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Turn off power, remove the lower kick plate and lower trim panel with the nutdriver. The float switch is in the front on the left. Remove the two wires on the switch. Use a #1 philips to remove the one screw holding the switch to the frame. Remove switch. Install wires on new switch and install switch using the screw. Be sure to get the plastic float arm under the switch. Raise float and observe the switch clicking on and off. Replace lower plates and restore power.

This was a pain to change due to very limited access. Also belt had very little stretch. Had to really put some thought in it before attempting.

removed screws that secured cover plates. discovered that belt was broken. ordered new belt. ordered friday; delivered monday. read some previous repair experiences.

the trick to getting belt onto the pulleys is to first wrap it around the spindle part. then set the belt into the motor pulley groove. carefully start working the belt in the other pulley into the groove while rotating both pulleys. i had to lay on my stomach on the floor to do this, but it did not take very long. once the belt is in place, lubricate it with the included gel. took about 20 minutes with some trial and error.

replaced belt....great service!!

lostened motor mounts,
streched belt across pulleys,
thghtened motor tension
replaced access panel.

After removing the cover to the motor assembly, I determined that the problem was that the old drive belt had broken. It probably was more than 20 years old. I originally thought that the size was no longer available because the old belt had stretched about two inches, but, after reading the repair stories on the PartsSelect Website, I decided to try the 25 3/8" belt. It worked great! After a few tries I was able to stretch the belt across the two pulleys without having to loosen anything. After applying the silicon grease, the dishwasher worked as good as new. The most difficult aspect of the job was having to work in such a small space. The most time-consuming part of the job was removing and then replacing the access cover, but the job overall was quite easy.

Remove lower cover plate below door. Remove broken spring with needle nose pliers. Place plastic insert into upper spring loop and loop into hole on right spring hinge. Grab lower spring loop with needle nose pliers and insert through hole in lower frame base. Reinstall lower cover plate.

had to remove the iner door plate and remove the main switch or latch to get to the micro switches witch one had over heated over time,it is working like new at this time.

This dishwasher is over 20 years old and still works well. The door springs broke and the skematic shows 2 springs on each side. The spring kit only includes one spring for each side which is the primary spring. Removed the bottom access panel, shut off the water line and removed the water line. Removed the top screws which lock the dishwasher in the cabinet and pulled forward about 6 inches to fully expose the springs. Replaced the two big springs, one on each side and adjusted for maximum pull of door. The second small springs were not necessary. Pushed unit back into the cabinet, connected the water line and tested for water leaks. Cleaned and replaced access panel and the door is light as a feather.

Changed springs on both sides as long as I was at it. Did this without having to pull out built in washer. Lock the door closed to give the least tension on the springs. Remove kick plate at bottom of washer. Remove small access panels on each side. If you have small enough paws you can reach thru the access holes and strectch the spring with your fingers to remove and install new springs or use needle nose pliers if you have to. Don't forget the nylon bushings that come with the springs or the metal on metal contact will eventually nick the springs hook and make them break . Hook top end of spring first (rounded hook) and then stretch spring by grasping between thumb and index finger and hook into bottom hole. Hardest part is having to lay on your stomach to do it. Reassemble and count the money you've saved.

Read thru the comments by others and matched them up with what I found (belt off the pulleys) when I took off the kickplate below the door. The old belt (20 years) had stretched about 1 1/2" compaired to the new replacement. Slip the new belt on the motor pulley and start it around the back of the pump pulley. Get your wife to hold your legs down so you can really twist/pull the pump pulley until the belt finally slips into place. No need to loosen the motor mounts if your wife can hold you down.

First removed the four screws to the lower front outside panel (the only tools needed to complete this job). Slide the belt under the drive motor, onto the motor pulley grove, then strecthed the belt onto the pulley for the pump that's on the power module (was qiite difficult, but with the directions supplied with the belt, was able to get it on) Lubricated the belt with silicon grease.

I removed the access panel and it was right there. one screw - disconect the wires & it was out. then right back in - access panel on, and done.

Removed the kick plates to access the pulley system, Heated the clear belt in hot water and installed it by rotating the large pulley to stretch the belt on. Then added the lubricant to the belt. Reinstalled the kick plates with nut driver.

After discovering the broken belt. 2 Days later I had the new belt from partselect. I placed the belt on the motor pulley then after 3-4 attempts was able to get the belt on the other pulley. It will go on. Comments from other customers really helped. After you get belt on then apply lub, per instructions. My maytag is over 20 years old still works great.