W205KAC Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

i took off the old belt and i took off the motor pulley with the pliers and srewdriver. i put the new pulley in with my hand and gave it a hit with the palm until it snap in and then i put the belt on by rotating the main pulley on tub till the belt was pulley on.

first remove drive belt then then remove dust cover on bottom of shaft take 5/16 nut driver to only 4 of the screws off that hold the brake cover on install 4 5/16 screws 1" long in those 4 spots.reomve rest of screws then slowly reomve back out 1" screws to relve spring pressure from brake pad.install all new parts from partsselect.com then install other part taken off in oreder and make your wife very happy

After replacing the tub to pump hose, I adjusted the feet on the washer. Apparently, the main pulley sits so low on these washers that it ground into the floor and stripped out the thrust bearing. I ordered the new thrust bearing clip and put it in the evening I received it. The instructions it came with were very helpful and it was simple to reassemble. Up until the last piece - the retaining clip. The majority of the repair time was spent replacing that clip. If there is a tool that makes the job easier, I didn't have it. I finally got it on with two flathead screwdrivers prying the shaft out while I wedged one corner of the clip in the groove.

I removed the part that was still attached to the washer and installed the new flume. It took less than five minutes and a repair that would have cost over $85 cost less than $10 and I am no plumber!

I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.

took hammer,screwdriver,cut old one off then took the newone and aline it up on spline put socket over it drove it on.a little at a time untell the lock on the end whent in the groove. done thank you. ps you dont have to buy a motor with pully.

Removed damaged pulley installed new pullley and clutch. The directions made it easy. Aligned pulley as detailed and installed new front feet and tested washer. Took me about 30 minutes to repair. Washer has been working since. Thanks guys for a nice no nonsense package.

First I unplugged the machine, then turned the water supply off in order to disconnect the hoses at the back of the machine. Next I pulled the top up and leaned it back so I could access the water valve at the rear of the machine (You might have to use a screw driver to pry the top off the pins which hold it down in front...). I then unscrewed the the valve and disconnected the wiring and, in order, re-connected to the new valve. Now reverse and turn on the water and yes, the new valve fixed the hot water problem. We can now do the "whites".

I opened up the top of the washer which exposed the tub, I took the top ring off the tub and under in side of the ring is the seal. Took the old one out and put the new one in. The old seal was completely wore out.
It was real easy.
Finding the part is usually the hardest part, but thanks to Parts Select finding the part was the easiest part of the repair.

Remove screws holding backplate, reomved backplate. removed belt and pully, replaced pully, replaced new belt, returned backplate and screws. worked great

Washer was making noise especially when spinning. I took the washer apart to clean it, That is what it really needed. Also adjusted the water level to prevent overflows which caused soap and water to get underneath into the drive belt area as well. During inspection noticed a nick in the drive belt, Although this was not really causing immediate problem wanted to repalce it to prevent problems. Ordered the belt; it came in two days with no special postage. To install, just leaned the washer over on its front on a slight incline. Took old belt off and put new on by turning the big pulley. It is spring tensioned, so no tools. This may be the easiest part repacement I ever did. Took longer to write this paragraph than to repalce the belt.

First our local store said you had to buy the whole motor. I didn't. I bought the pully from you guys and took pliers and pulled the broke pully off and put a socket on there and hit it with a hammer and then she washes.

I removed four screws to remove a plate to get access to the pump. Then I removed 3 screws to remove the pump. I then put the new pump in place and put the 3 screws back in the pump. Then I put the plate back on and put the 4 screws back in. Then I put the belt on and put the washing machine back in place and connected the water lines and drain line and plugged the washing machine back in and then tested the washing machine to make sure it worked. Job completed.

Once the washer was unplugged, i removed the two screws on the back pannel, disconnected the three wires, rubber water line, and two screws holding it to the control panel. Quite simply reversed the process with the replacement part i ordered, which arrived overnight, and the problem was solved.

I think normally the problem is caused by the Brake Rotor Lining Assy (item #50 on the diagram). It has a brake lining facing down that makes contact with item # 51. It turned out that I had grease & grime on these parts, thus the brake is not taking grip & causing squeaky noise. All I had to do was to clean the parts & put them back. I bought the part (#50) - P/N 2347192, but it was a whirlpool part that didn't fit my Magic Chef. Some parts fit both brands, but this 1 didn't. Here is the procedure:

1. Unplug washer.
2. Move unit away from wall.
3. Tilt it back far enough to work underneath. Support the front with lumber.
4. Pull out cap (#58)
5. Remove ring clip (#57)
6. slide out everything from #53 down. Keep them in same order for re-installation.
7. There are 6 ea screws (#53) that hold item #52 to item #45. It is spring loaded by item #47. Item #53 has a 5/16" hex head. Use 3 ea. #10-24 hex head screw, at least 1.25" long to assist in compress/decompress the spring tension. You can buy them from a hardware store.
8. Take out every other screw (#53) & replace them with these 3 longer screws for remove/re-installation of item #52.
9. Take out the remaining 3 ea #52 screws.
10. Go around & back off each of the 3 longer screws to decompress the spring.
11. Remove item #52, & everything from #48 down will come out.
12. Clean or replace what you need.
13. Do the reverse to put everything back.
14. There is an item within #59 that looks like a miniature bearing. I would put some grease on that & on item #55.