TUD6750SD0 Estate Dishwasher - Instructions

removed two hose clamps and old hose. slid new hose on existing fittings on dishwasher drain and disposal and tightened hose clamps. Turned it on for test run.

1st i removed the broken threds with a wood chisel (just got a chisel that fit snug in the hole , tilted it a little and turned out the threds)
after looking at the print that was on the web sight i put the parts back on the same way. note::: i was instucted by my wife not to help with the dishes ever again . i had put two spoons ,a fork and a knife in the wrong rack ...silverware will tear up the dishwasher.....

Replaced door gasget took 5 minutes tops. Ran cycle and still had leak. Called local repair person. After thoroughly checking out the dishwasher and running soapless cycle determined problem to be soap build up over time. He ran a commercial cleaner through a complete pots and pan cycle. No more suds and no more leak repair complete. Did not actually need door gagset but it was super easy to change and delivery service was great.

Once the covers under the door are removed, the check valve is visible (unless its too dark, hence the headlight), and pointing right at you. Since I was working under the dishwasher, I gathered all the tools I thought I might need and laid them on the floor next to. Removed 2 covers, placed pan under check valve and hose to catch any water, squeezed clamp with (wrong) pliers, it eventually came loose. Carefully twisted hose off check valve. Water came out, some of it got into the pan, most of it on the floor. I guess I should have pumped it out before I started this. Plastic check valve is screwed into the big piece of whatever, carefully grabbed it with (wrong again) pliers and turned it out. Installation is reverse of removal - but use a large pliers with a ROUNDED jaw to grab the round check valve body. Don't squeeze too hard or overtighten it. Put the clamp on the valve before pushing the hose on. Be sure the hose seats all the way onto the little lugs. Compress the clamp, slide it over the end of the hose and release. That's all folks, works good now.

Actually I ordered the drain and wash impeller kit because it was listed as the #1 cause of failure to drain. I then hired a plumber to install it. He did so and that didn't solve the problem. So I was about to buy a new dishwasher. I then noticed that the second most frequent cause was a problem with the "dishwasher drain check valve." I watched the "partselect" video on how to change that. I didn't have a new one but I thought I would take out the part and see what I could learn. As it turned out it was blocked by a little piece of what appeared to be a walnut chip. I cleaned it out reinstalled the drain check valve and the problem was solved.

Installed pump kit. Was surprised the kit seemed different( some parts changed or deleted. Instructed to discard old parts and follow with new configuration. Reassembled and tried t fin it works fine now. Thank you so much

I watched the video link sent in an email and followed exactly what they did in the video. I removed the star head screws holding the door liner in place. Then removed the protective cover on the inside. I disengaged the component holding the latch in place. I replace the component that holds the latch in place and then snapped the new latch in place. I turned the dishwasher dial until the prongs were fully retracted. I replace the protective cover and then put the door cover back in place. I initially only placed the left bottom star head screw until I was sure that the latch was going to release. I tested that it was working properly by slowly turning the dial on the dishwasher control. Once I knew it was working I replaced the rest of the screws.

1 Screw 5 minutes thanks for the quick service will definitely use ya'll next time

Got the new door and tried to put it on. The door went on very easily. However, there's a spring that opens the door when the main wash cycle comes around. I never did get that spring right. None of the drawings showed the correct position and after an hour of trying to get it to work right, I gave up. The door comes open slightly (but not because of the spring) when it's time, and the liquid soap runs out due to gravity. But I wouldn't try to use soap powder because the door doesn't come open far enough.

removed old check valve from bottom of dishwasher and replaced with new one. I used channel locks to do this, disconnect hoses and screw out check valve, and put back in opposite order, make sure the dishwasher is empty of water or have a plastic bowl or such to catch water. Take off two front covers on bottom of dishwasher to access check valve ,white with hose attached.

Removed the washer from the cabinet, although the repair kit could have been replaced without this step. However, it still made it easier. Removed the spray arm assembly and the top cover to the motor. I had to block the motor to keep it from turning while I unscrewed part number 11. The rest was very self explanatory. The "impeller" was seized onto the motor shaft (20 years old) so I had to use a chisel to break what remained off, then clean some corrosion from the shaft. The repair kit worked and the pictorial parts diagram that came with the kit was very clear. Bottom line: "Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!" Great web site for diagnosis and parts diagrams!

repair was very easy did need to go to the hardware store for and adapter for the hose to water inlet valve as mine had a smaller diameter connector. Otherwise followed both videos. Needed a shopvac to remove water in the bottom of the dishwasher

I ORDERED THE PART THAT WAS EASY BUT WHILE THE MACHINE WAS USED FOR HOW LONG I DON'T KNOW WITH OUT THE CAP IT GOT FILLED WITH FOOD AND JUNK. FIRST THING I HAD TO DO WAS EXAMIN THE DOOR AS TO HOW I COULD CLEAN THIS THING OUT. I REMOVED 6 SCREWS THAT HELD THE DOOR TOGETHER AND PULLED EASY CAUSE I DIDN'T KNOW WHAT I WAS GETTING INTO. NO PROBLEM THERE WAS NO ELECTRIC PLUGS HOOKED TO THE DOOR. I TOOK IT OUT SIDE AND STARTED USING VINIGAR AND POURING IT INTO THE HOLE AND SHAKING THEN TRYING TO GET IT BACK OUT. WELL THERE IS ONLY ONE POSITION THAT WILL LET THE VINEGAR BACK OUT. I HAD TO HOLD IT SIDEWAYS THEN TILT FORWARD AND IT WOULD RUN OUT AND BRING SOME JUNK WITH IT. THIS WAS A TIME CONSUMING PROCESS BEING YOU COULD NOT SEE INSIDE TO KNOW HOW MUCH JUNK WAS IN THERE. JUST POUR AND DUMP. AND DON'T FOR GET TO SHAKE TO LOOSEN ANY THING LEFT INSIDE.LOL I WAS VERY PROUD OF MYSELF NOT KNOWING FOR SURE IF I FIXED IT OR NOT BUT I TOOK A SHOT I HAD. I DID SOME SCRUBBING AND DEGREASING ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR BEFORE I REASSEMBLED IT. THAT WAS EASY AND I CROSSED MY FINGERS ANY WAY. I GOT OUT MY NEW PART AND THE JET DRY I BOUGHT AND STATED TO FILL THE DISPENSER AND IT TOOK HALF THE BOTTLE.YEA !!! I PUT THE CAP ON AND COULDN'T WAIT TO DO A LOAD OF DISHES. EVERY THING IS LOOKING GOOD NOW. THANK YOU PART SELECT FOR MAKING GETTING THE PARTS I NEEDED SO EASY AND SHOWING DIAGRAMS SO I HAD THE RIGHT PART. I COULDN'T HAVE DONE IT WITH OUT YOU.

I removed the bottom spray arm and replaced the worn part. Now the arm turned freely and was performing as it was designed to do. I appreciate parts select for having the part available since the manufacturer no longer supported the model.

My dishwasher started leaking at the door. I checked the level, door seal, fill float, etc. Nothing worked. Another reviewer of these parts said to replace the Seal, Lower Sprayarm, the Wash Arm Bearing Ring, and the wash arm. I replaced the seal and the bearing, not the washer arm, as my spray had little to no wear. This fixed the problem! If you dishwasher leaks at the door, it is possible these parts are worn and replacing them wil fix the leak. Thanks to the other reviewer I now have no leaks! Buy a spare nut because they break very easy if overtorqued!