TT14DKXST01 Estate Refrigerator - Instructions

After discovering that the water noise was coming from the rear of the refridgerator upon pulling it foward I discivered the connection line had broken. So i got a phillips screw driver and removed the the two mounting screws and saw it was one piece. I easliy found the part on PartSelect website and once I got I merely swaped them out and it works good as new!

got the icemaker kit and started to add it to the frig found problems with the adaption to the frig in back for water filler tube but was able to make it fit. had to make a connection outside to water line with copper pipe added to hose with claps and saddle valve, turned it on and had leaks due to the schedule copper was the thin wall type, got thicker type and installed it, no leaks, started making ice. it was nice to get the right kit to make things work out. thanks

this is a snap! 2 screws an a nut to tighten and it works like a charm. the filler tube in my Kenmore refer had broken off in the back. ( really bad location to put this in the beginning) if you push the refer to close to the wall you can break it off easily. remove the water line by loosing the nut and remove the hose from the fill tube ( This assumes you have already turned of the water supply or you are standing in a large puddle)remove the 2 screws that hold the filler tube in place. pull out the old filler tube in and slightly upright motion. replace the new fill tube into the same hole and replace the screws. replace the hose and tighten the nut, turn the water back on and check for leaks your done !!
doesn't that feel great?

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

All I did was screw the handles on the front door. I had to re-do the freezer handle because I put that one on upside down. I knew I had done so since I was able to refer back to your handly on-line schematic.

I was able to transfer my old ice maker from my old Roper Refrigerator/Freezer into my new Whirlpool Sidekick Freezer. Everything transferred directly except for the water fill tube. I ordered one on line and simply cut it to the right length, removed the cover plate inside the freezer compartment and the little sticker from the outside. Inserted tube and fastened in place with two screws (not provided but was able to use the screws that were in the holes inside the freezer before the ice maker went in. Works great. By not buying the ice maker with the freezer I saved a hundred bucks or so.

I pulled off the panel covering the part in the freezer cut and stripped the wires. Used crimper and connectors put the new part on put the wires band panel back on and plugged the refrigerator back in. Everything works just fine now.

doesn't need instructions, join a couple of parts together that all it was a bar to hold things in place on the freezer part door

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

We emptied out both sides, refrigerator and freezer, and followed the instructions in your video. We turned it off and disconnected the power. We took off the freezer door first. It made it much easier to get the shelves out and reach way back into the freezer. We removed the light and cover, then the ice auger motor. The back panel was easy to lift and remove. The wire assembly was a little hard to understand at first, but when we figured it out it was easy to remove and replace the bimetal defrost thermostat. We did check the video when we had the wire harness out, to make sure we got it right. We reassembled the freezer's inside parts and reattached the door. Before we turned the power back on, we scrubbed down the entire refrigerator. When we turned the power back on, the refrigerator and freezer were operating quietly - no sparks or explosions or shorting out - hooray! And the problems were solved.
The most important resource is your video. It looked like something we could do, and then ordered the parts. Our repair took a long time because we checked the video so many times. Thank you so much for the great information and the excellent parts. We could not have done it without you.

Freezer worked great, refrigerator stopped getting cold and lots of ice formed around the condenser on the bottom of the refrigerator.
First I had a serious ice issue, ice build up around the bottom of the refrigerator and all through the cold air vents, condenser and cooling fan. I unplugged of the fridg and let defrost over night. I also took all the cold air vents out and cleaned them.
Then I followed the switch install video very simple switch install. Now the Refrigerator works Great nice and cold.

Piece of cake. It took me longer to remove the food from the freezer, remove shelves and back panel than to do the repair. I heard the fan making some noises so I replaced both the fan and defrost thermostat. I used the instructions submitted by a another customer. My 20+ year old fridge is like new now.

The Video on U tube was helpful. I have a side by side model and it was difficult to work in such tight quarters to attach the new part . I found that by removing the cable assembly it was much easier to attach (cut and crimp) the new part on the outside , then reinsert the assembly. The new part resolved my problem. Don't panic when you try and remove the cable assembly. Hope this is helpful.

The plastic part that connects the fresh cold water to the ice maker in back of the fridge cracked.
Do to the fact that Whirlpool has the part stick out on the back top part of the fridge. So if you push the fridge just an inch too far back the plastic part will crack.
I ordered (The Part S&H)- came to about, $11.00.

1. Turned off the cold water under the sink.
2. In the back of the freezer section. I unscrewed the two screws that held the old broken part to the fridge.
3. I opened the freezer section and cleared out the top shelf till I could see the back of the fridge.
4. I removed the old plastic part by pushing & wiggling it about forward and it then extended out the back of the freezer side and then I pulled it out the back and it came out.
5. I slid the new replacement part in basically the reverse of step 4.
6. I connected the hose in the back. To the new, replacement plastic part, that fills the automatic ice tray with water.

7. Once finished I glued a small 2”x2” piece of wood next to the new part so the fridge will never get too close to the back wall so to never break that part that sticks out again.
Before just a small bump could break the part and water is everywhere and this leak could happen slowly at first and the next day what a mess.
Some fridges have this part recessed into the back of the fridge so this would never happen as my other fridge has.
Also, this might seem like more work then it was. It was very simple. I was scared I'd screw it up, but just did it step by step. If I had someone do it. It would have cost me a bundle.
It took more time to type this, then to do the work.
I had no instructions to follow, but again, was easer then I thought it would be.
I hope that this was helpful,
Jim Vourakis