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Oven would not light
Disconnected power cord to range Removed the cover over the flame guard Removed the Flame guard Pulled out broiler drawer Unscrewed the cover and disconnected the white plastic connector to the ignitor wires Un crewed the two small screws to the ignitor and removed the old ignitor Cut the two wires from the old ignitor Connected the new ignitor to the wires on the white connector Installed the new ignitor Reassembled parts dsassembled Plugged in power cord
See other posts.... they have the correct repair procedures.
HIGHLY RECOMMEND removing the bottom drawer to access the space where splice will be made between new igniter wires and existing wires. This step is recommended in previous posts. I wasted a lot of time taking out unnecessary stuff in the oven compartment before I realized that the drawer compartment provided easy access for repair. Story of my life on just about all repairs.
I forgot to remove something I had saved in the oven, planning to remove it before using the range.
Very simple. Removed oven rack that had melted residue on it and replaced it with the new one from your company. I want to tell you that the delivery service I received was just geat. Took less than 48 hours to arrive at my home from the time I placed the order on line. Keep up the good work and I will be happy to share my experience with those in need of you services. Thanks. Marilyn Kasson
Remove bottom plates and deflector from oven, remove old igniter. Remove bottom drawer and panel to expose wiring. Cut wires, used supplied wire nuts to splice. The time consuming part of this job was having to clean all the parts before reassembly, and having to extract screws that were rusted into place due to heat and spillage. One of the igniter screws was stripped, and was very difficult to remove. The first part in your "probably cause" list was the right one! Thanks for the good service, and a useful website!
There were only 2 screws that held the door handle & cap in place, removed screws & handle to get cap pieces off. Ordered new cap, - lost screws - cap delivered - no screws had to order screws, damn! They're expensive too !! Got screws, installed handle & cap, now wife is happy again!
Stovetop worked fine, but Oven didn't always light.
Open oven door and remove metal splash plate on bottom of oven by removing two screws in back. Remove heat distribution plate (metal) by unscrewing a single nut with pliers. Now the ignitor is visible. Unscrew old ignitor by backing off two screws. Detach the wires and reattach to new ignitor. (a cover plate may have to unbolt from the left back corner to get at one of the wiring connections.) Reattach new ignitor and then flame distribution plate. Put on splash cover and tighten back screws. Test oven, it should light within 1 minute. All is done.
Was easy...I pulled oven out from the wall so I could get to the back.i used a nut driver to remove small silver cover.matched up wires to the never module and re installed.pluged oven back in and burners lit perfectly
I followed the instructions given pretty much, however none of them mentioned one important point.To remove the cover plate, do NOT try to pry it away from the unit. It will crack. Fortunately I caught it in time.I then started in another corner by inserting a razor knife between the face plate and unit and sliding it around all four sides. There was enough goo left on the plate to enable me to affix it to the new unit.
After looking over the installation instructions I was confident that I could perform this on my own, However, changing the burner orifices was a bit tricky. Getting the original ones out worked well, they stayed in the nut driver when it was lifted. One of the new ones fell out when inserting it. Thankfully it fell all the way down and I could retrieve it. A small piece of tape was needed to keep it in the driver. The rest of the install went per instructions.
Oven would not light upon setting for oven heat-up. Igniter would glow, but no gas flow. Gas Valve safety not sensing enough current draw from igniter to open gas valve. Original igniter measured 175 Ohms on Volt-Ohmmeter. New Igniter measured 74 Ohms before installation and use. Installed and spliced into existing wires using good quality wire nuts and tucked wiring into wire areas ensuring it was away from burner flue. Oven lit on first start-up! Problem fixed! Easiest to get to by removing broiler drawer, pressing catch tangs in from outside rails using a small screwdriver. 1 screw of 2 on igniter mount was stripped and difficult to remove, but working with pliers and nut driver was able to remove it with some difficulty. New Igniter hangs fine with 1 screw. .
Partselect always have their install video with the parts they sell so it was easy. I know contractors must not be happy with people like partselect and YouTube with all the instructional videos they supply us with. Keep up the great work partselect.
Stove was dropped and had broken, bent frame and adjuster feet
New ones fit perfectly. Take a minute to bend the frame straight. Then and I used oversize screws on the replacement parts as the drop had stripped out the screw holes of the frame.
On the front left burner would not ignite, after the installation of the new one, same problem, new one didn't fix.. I guess it's something with the electric igniter
