Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven wouldn't heat up / ignitor was bad
Our original oven ignitor went bad. The gas supply won't even open, unless the oven senses the proper voltage / resistance across the ignitor, so that gas won't be flowing without ignition.
PartSelect was very good about providing me with the proper part, after I got the part number from their schematics and wiring diagrams, on the website. The first replacement part actually arrived, broken, from shipping, but when I called them, they immediately reprocessed the order, and sent me a new ignitor, to arrive the following day. I was very satisfied with their professionalism, as I've been in the past with them, as well.
On to the actual repair:
I removed the broiler drawer from the drawer slides, reached under the main oven chamber, unscrewed the two screws holding the ignitor in place, and cut / disconnected the two wires supplying the power to it.
I then put the new ignitor in place and screwed it back to the mount, used the wire nuts that came with the new ignitor to reconnect / splice the wires, and put the broiler drawer back in place.
Oven fired right up!
Entire process took less than 35 minutes. (Likely would've taken a bit longer, but this is the second replacement for the ignitor, since we've owned this oven, so I already had a good idea how to do it. (The first replacement for this particular part was NOT from PartSelect, so we're hopeful this one lasts a while longer than the previous one.)
Make sure you unplug the oven before you begin. I removed the old igniter. The top wire on the igniter goes to the back of the oven and plugs into a flat blade type connector. Instead of using the twist wire nut I used a flat connector because it was easier to put on and is foolproof. Make sure you cut the plastic insulation off the connector so it does not melt when the oven is in use. I used a wire nut on the other wire and that was it. Very simple and the oven works great again.
I searched the item I needed and followed a link to PartSelect.com. I paid a little extra for shipping and literally recieved the part in two days. The part was an absolute perfect fit and my wife and myself have never been happier. Home cooked meals again thanks to the folks at PartSelect.com. It couldn't have been an easier.
tHE ORIGINAL MODULE DIED AFTER 21 YEARS OF SERVICE
First had to move the stove out of its "nest", take the side cover off, remove 1 screw and loosen the other , take the old module out and reverse the operation. That simple. Part was supplied 1 day before promised date, awesome. Part fitted exactly as the OEM part, works like a charm, everyone happy.
I removed the back panel, about 6 screws, then found the probe which was attached by 2 screws. Unscrewed them and unplugged it. Plugged the new one in and replaced all the screws. The oven works like a charm now! No more F3 errors!
The temperature was irratic the entire time the stove was on. I would set it for 350 and it would go up to 425 then down to 275. It was all over the place.
It was great. We ordered the part, it was shipped the next day and I had it the day after that. It was easy to install and the stove has worked perfect since. Color us happy!
Springs pooped off door hinges, causing hinges to break through door face
Remove decorative side panels on stove to expose backside of hinge and springs; remove door; remove old hardware; since hinge openings were bent, straighten hinge opening in oven face; attach spring to inside of oven; slide hinge through opening; attach spring to hinge; screw hinges to oven face; repeat on other side; attach hinges to door; while decorative panels are off, vacuum install decorative panels. DONE.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
13 of 23 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
oven would not light -igniter was on
removed shelves and base, removed 2 screws that held igniter on, disconnected wires from gas valve removed protective cover in corner {1 screw} disconnected plug, removed igniter. This igniter was easier to remove from front of stove on this model
The oven would take forever to heat up, and sometimes not at all. Othertimes it would heat up, but not stay hot for the entire baking time.
First, I unplugged the oven from the wall. I opened the bottom drawer of the oven to see where the igniter was mounted, which was directly under the bottom pan of the oven itself. I opened the main oven door and unscrewed the 2 screws that were holding the pan to the bottom of the oven. Then, I slid the pan back towards the the back of the oven and it popped right out.
There were 2 hex screws that were holding the old igniter on, so I unscrewed them with my socket set. I made sure to pay attention to which wire was the top one and which one was the bottom one coming out the back of the igniter. I pulled off the wire nuts connecting the igniter wires to the wires of the oven. I striped the wires on the new igniter and re-attached them to the proper wires of the oven, using the included replacement ceramic wire nuts. I re-screwed the hex nuts in, mounting the new igniter to its proper place. I put the pan back and screwed the 2 screws back in to hold it in place.
Plugged it back in, turned it on, fired up within 20 seconds. Good as new.
I looked up the error code on line and found it was likely a faulty oven temp sensor. I was able to find the part and diagram at partselect.com and placed an order. The probe was in stock and arrived within a couple days. The repair took only about 20 minutes and works fine now. Thanks for your help partselect.com! Jim
Removed oven door. (Open to first position then lift the door straight up). Located igniter in bottom of oven, followed connecting wires to connection block below oven behind the oven drawer. Disconnected the existing wires. Lifted the burner out of oven to disconnect defective igniter. Screws were fused to the burner. Used vice grips to remove screws requiring the screw holes to be retapped. Bought new screws to replace trashed screws. Installed new igniter to the burner rail then set burner rail back in place. Fished the leads from new igniter back down to connector block. Reinstalled leads. Reinstalled oven door. Tested functionality of oven. Everything worked. Reinstalled metal plates back in oven. Reinstalled cover over connection block behind bottom drawer. Reinstalled drawer. With the exception of fighting with two screws fused to the burner rail it is a very straightforward repair and shouldn’t take much more than 1/2 hour.
Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....
First I turned off the circuit breaker to the oven. Then, I removed the base of the oven (the oven floor) by easily removing two screws. I also removed the flame guard by removing a screw. That easily exposed the old oven igniter. I removed the two small screws that held that in place. The igniter is connected by two wires, which you'll have to snip. Snip those very close to the igniter (leave about an inch of wire on the igniter). Using a wire stripper, remove about 1/2 inch of the outer sheath of the existing wires. On the new igniter, snip the wires leaving about 2 inches still connected to the igniter. Using the wire stippers, remove about 1/2 inch of the outer sheath. Using the plastic wire caps that came with the new igniter, connect the wires from the oven to the corresponding wire on the new igniter. Screw the new igniter back in place. Replace the flame guard and oven floor. Turn on the circuit breaker and start cooking again!