TEF353AWC Tappan Range - Instructions
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broil element was bad.
It was a little difficult by my self an extra hand would of made it much easier.I unscrewed the screws pulled the wires from the back of the oven which took a few minutes.I am not great at fixing things but once I got the old one out it went smoother than I expected.it took about 25-30 minutes with an extra hand could have made it 10 minutes.not bad over all for me.did I mention not very handy.did stun the wife that I fixed it on my own.thanks Bill
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William from Fort Myers, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
7 of 8 people
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Oven wasn't heating properly for a few months and then stopped altogether
The hardest part was pulling the oven away from the wall. Two bolts hold the sensor in place and a clip connects the electronics. Replacing the old one was trivial.
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Matt from KENNETT SQ, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
6 of 6 people
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Oven racks rusted
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Wendell from Ocala, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
11 of 21 people
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Broken Drawer Glide
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Sharon from Hamlin, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
6 of 6 people
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switch not always turn off
Took upper back off ( 6 screws), chech to be sure was right switch, pulled spade clip wires of, put on new switch, checked to see that it worked, replace cover.
Parts Used:
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Jerrold from San Marcos, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
7 of 9 people
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Refrigerator Light bulb went out
I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.
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ANGELA from MEBANE, NC
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
7 of 10 people
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Oven door glass cracked in half
First of all I would like to comment on how it easy it was to place this order and I was pleasantly surprised that it was rec'd the next day. Also it was the correct part that I needed. To install it, first I removed the screws and then the metal that was holding the broken glass. Once the broken glass was removed, I set the new glass in the metal strips and basically screwed it back together. Please note to be careful to remember which screws go where as they are not the same size and do not fit anywhere but where they belong. That was the only part of the job that I had a problem with.
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Janice from Northbridge, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
6 of 7 people
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Oven door inner glass cracked after cleaning
The repair went relatively easy especially after reading that another homeowner found the door to be "spring loaded". I was prepared and made sure I held onto things tightly.I removed the screws as I came to them and carefully removed the other 3 pieces of glass, finally reaching the inner panel. Putting that in and holding it as I put the next piece back was the most difficult. Once that was in place, the rest was just a matter of redoing what I undid. Needless to say, I was a bit nervous the first time I used the oven. No problems though, works like a charm! Thanks!
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Lisa from Erial, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
6 of 7 people
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broken lens over oven light
Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....
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Leslie from Warsaw, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
11 of 22 people
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The elements were not heating up
It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!
Parts Used:
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Tanya from KALISPELL, MT
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
6 of 8 people
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switch had a diffirent lug configuration
made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!
Parts Used:
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Robert from Andrews, SC
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
9 of 18 people
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Glides broke on lower storage drawer
The front glides easily snap into a hole on the sides of the range. The rear glides easily snap onto the sides of the lower rear of the drawer.
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James from WEST BEND, WI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
5 of 6 people
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Couldn't find replacement trays locally. Part Select was very helpful and prompt in shipping.
Just placed the chrome bowl trays in place and was good to go. They look very nice.
Parts Used:
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Rosemary from St. Albans, ME
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
5 of 7 people
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Burning electrical smell and "buzzing"
I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
Parts Used:
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Louis from Beloit, WI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 7 people
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L.F. large burner element either on full hot or off. Would not cycle in and out with element control switch setting.
Disconnect power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box. Remove 240 volt service electrical plug to range. Remove back top panel to expose element control switches. Remove element control switch to L.F. burner by first pulling off the control knob. You may need to use a large flat screw driver to pry behind knob to get it started but it should come straight off. There are two screws revealed under knob that need to come off. Then the element control is easily, but carefully, removed out the back. Be careful you do not pull the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch off right above the element control switch. If you do, this will break the end off the plastic "Hot Surface Indicator Light" lens. If this happens you can still replace it but you will need to use super glue to make the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch stay connected to the clear lens. Install new element control in reverse order before gluing the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch as stated above or you will knock it off again. While holding the old element control in your hand with wires still attached, remove one wire at a time (making note of the location code for each wire) from old element control and install on new control. The new element control layout for the wire prongs will be different so you need to make sure you look for the code (like L1, H1, P) located on each prong location and put the same coded wire from old element control location onto new control prong code location. Reinstall new element control (with wires pushed fully onto prongs of new control) into panel with screws removed before. Reinstall knob, reinstall panel cover and reconnect range power plug. Restore power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box With electric power restored, test element control by turning it on and see if it properly cycles on and off at different settings. If working properly you should be able to hear it click on and off and element heating and going off accordingly.
Parts Used:
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Gerald from MADISON HTS, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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