SX25SW-P1190206WW Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplug the appliance.
Removed the screws holding the back panel.
Removed the fan blade.
removed 3 screws holding the condenser fan.
Remove the 3 metal brackets attached to the fan.
(First note which studs the brackets are attached to. Attach the 3 metal brackets to the new fan. (New screws were supplied)
Cut and strip the wire about two inches from the fan.
Cut and strip the new wire. I cut the new wire in half (about 6 inches.) Connect the two wires, twist and used 2 wire nuts. Tie wrap the wire to the wire harness. Mount the new fan (three screws)
Screw the back panel back on.
Mount the new

I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.

After emptying the refrig. door, I unscrewed the plate on the top of the refrigerator that covered the door bolts. Then off with the three bolts. I removed the door by lifting it up a few inches. The two parts of the door cam were easily removed and replaced with the new part. BEFORE REPLACING the door spread vasoline on both cam parts.
(Not after as I did. The second time you do any of these repairs go SO much better :o)
After putting the door back on, adjust the tension of the screws holding the door in place if needed to align the door on the cams so that it shuts completely. Failure to do this will require taking the top off the door again. (see comment above on "... second time...")
If all is properly aligned, the door should swing completely shut.
Even with the mistakes that required removing the door to lubricate the cams, and removing it AGAIN to readjust the screws on the top to properly align the door on the cams, this was a twenty minute job. My wife and I were still speaking to one another at the end of it- a sure sign of an easy repair.

Noticed refrigerator making a noise, the noise would get louder when the freezer side door would be open. After awhile the noise stopped and noticed the refrigerator was no longer cooling. Looked in the freezer and noticed the back was iced up around the evaporator panel. Removed food and shelves on freezer side to gain access to the evaporator panel. Turned the Defrost timer knob manually to melt ice build up. Unplugged refrigerator. Then removed the 11 screws(1/4 inch screwheads). Noticed evaporater fan was stuck on fan shroud. Removed 2 (1/4 inch screwheads) and pulled the fan motor out. Noticed front bearing was leaking a black residue and that the motor shaft was extremely loose and not spinning true. Put back in for time being to order parts. Ordered parts from Partselect.com, website was easy to navigate and they had excellent diagrams of the parts. Ordered new evaporater fan, grommets, and fan blade. Received parts next day sooner then expected. Took a digital picture of fan motor wires to ensure proper re-install of wires afterwards. Unplugged refrigerator, removed two power wires and green grounding wire to fan motor. Took note of fan position on shaft and direction of fan fins. Took 2 (1/4 inch screwheads) to remove fan motor from fan motor mount. Removed old fan blade from old fan motor shaft to get front motor mount bracket off old motor. Put new grommets on new fan motor, put in fan motor mount, installed 2 screws. Installed new fan blade shaft on new motor shaft made sure it was the same depth on shaft as the old set up. Reinstalled motor into refrigerator with two screws, reinstalled wires, verified correctly hooked up with digital picture took. Plugged refrigerator back in, verified fan worked and proper direction of air flow, began cooling. Reinstalled panel and 11 screws, shelves and waiting for it to cool down before putting food back in. Cooled down, no problems since and noise is gone. Looked at old motor and noticed front bearing failed and wore down the shaft causing it to spin out of round and make the loud noise. Thank you Partselect.com for having the great web-site to navigate and diagrams to verify I was getting the correct parts.

After some time of not being sure the problem was this board or not I finally found out some information on the defrost on this unit. If you open the refrigerator door and then manually open/close the door light switch 4 times in 8 seconds and the unit does not go into defrost, then the board needs to be replaced.
I ordered the board and it was here in a few days.
I UNPLUGGED THE REFRIGERATOR.
Then I took the grille off the bottom front and there was a small box attached right in front at the top. There are two spring clips that hold it in place. I used pliers to pull them back and pulled down on the box which released it. I was then able to remove the single phillips screw from the top of the box and view the board.
There are several wires attached using female wire ends. I noted the color order and how they matched the markings on the board and then removed each wire with the long-nose being careful to pull on the ends and not the wires themselves.
I then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the 4 screws holding the board in the box.
I placed the new board in and screwed it in place.
Then I attached each of the wires according to the notes I took earlier so they were in the same order.
Installation from here was simply a matter of reversing the procedures above.

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

rmv panel (5min) rmv fan/motor 3 screws (10 m) cut wire 2in from motor, re route remainder of wire to front so can strip for wire nuts. ( 10m) attach old fan to new motor, place in old opening ,3 screws, a little fussy to align, ( 15m ) route and strip wire from new motor , zip ties work well, wire nuts , plug in fridge vola, no noise, close up, reverse panel. ( 20m). i also took time to clean grilles with small vac and damp rag, ( looks and sounds like new) bob Wi.

remove top plastic cover / phillips screw driver
remove top door bracket / 5/15" socket
lift off door
remove pieces of old cam / phillips screw driver
replace cam/ phillips screw driver
replace door
replace top bracket / 5/16" socket
check alignment

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

My husband replaced the condenser fan. It took awhile and a few choice words but he got it replaced. The fan seemed to work fine, but it still wasn't cooling. I noticed that when we had the fridge unplugged that water started draining out the dials at the top of the fridge under the freezer. And there was absolutely no water at all in the drip pan under the fridge. So I took the doors off and totally took the inside of the freezer apart. I discovered that the styrofoam on the floor of the freezer had become inudated with fluid and the under the foam the coils were all frozen solid with ice. Hence not allowing any drainage. I put a lamp in the freezer area and defrosted all the ice. In searching the internet i discovered that they no longer produce the foam so i went to home depot and got a piece of foam and aluminum foil and cut it to replace the ruined foam. I put the fridge all back together said a prayer and crossed my fingers and lo and behold it works perfectly now!!!!

Remove the back hardboard cover screws for access to the condenser fan. I opted to tip the fridge over on its side for even better access to the fan mounts and wire. Replaced the fan assy (reused the fan). Splice the wire and it's done.

I saw on a partselect web site that these symptoms could be caused by a failed condensor fan motor. After removing the cardboard panel in back of the refrigerator I noticed the fan was not running when the rfigerator was. The fan was held in place by three brackets. I unscrewed the screws holding the fan motor to the brackets and also unscrewed one of the brackets to make room to pull the motor out. I cut the wires close to the motor. I removed the fan blade and secured it to the new motor. I had to reroute the old wires in order to have enough slack to use wire nuts to attach them to the leads on the new motor. I then re-attached the motor to the two brackets remaining in place and then re-attacehed the third bracket I had removed to get the motor out.. The most difficult part was working in a very confined space.

After moving the refrigerator away from the wall I removed the cover on the lower back of the unit by removing the screws that held it in place. The condenser fan was not turning and there was heat build up in the area causing the refrigerator to not work properly creating elevated temperatures in both the freezer and regrigerator. Removal of three torx screws from the original motor was all it took to get the motor free. By turining it and working the fan blade around the mounting bracket I had the motor out in just a few minutes. Replacing the new motor was just as easy to reinstall. The fan was removed from the old motor and placed on the new for installation. The original motor was wired to accept a connector from the wiring harness of the refrigerator. I simply cut the connector off the wiring harness and stripped the insulation from the wires which easily allowed me to connet the wires of the motor and harness with two wire nuts. Three self tapping screws were used to hold the motor in place replacing the torx screws. Installed I plugged the unit in and immediately the fan started spinning as the unit came to life. Cleaned and replaced the cover over the back and slid back into its spot. Running as good as it did when it was new. Easy job to take care of.

First I removed the knobs, then the plastic cover over the thermostat. Then, I removed the two screws that hold it on. I removed the thermostat, unplugged the electrical leads, and pulled out the old thermostat. I then inserted the new one, hooked up the leads and reassembled.

I removed the plastic cover from the top hinge and loosened the screws. The magnet seal kept the door in place so I removed the top hinge and tried to lift the door off the bottom hinge but the water line wouldn't let it go. Since I don't use the water feature, I just cut the water line and lifted the door off. That's when I discovered the hinge pin was actually broken off, not just the cam. I went ahead and replaced the cam kit and put it temporarily back together, got right back on line and ordered the bottom hinge. The service was again very fast and in a couple of days I received the bottom hinge, repeated the whole process again and this time replaced the bottom hinge assembly, put some petrolium jelly on the cam kit and now it works smooth and perfect.