SVD48600PR Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

After reading three other reviews I decided to replace the hinges to save $ (REPAIR SERVICE ESTIMATE WAS $200 +). As another reviewer stated " I spent more time removing and cleaning the glass viewing doors than replacing the hinges". One critical part of the hinge replacement is the removal of the heavy oven door. TO AVOID INJURY DURING DOOR REMOVAL IT IS IMPORTANT TO INSERT A "PIN, SMALL NAIL, HEAVY PAPER CLIP" INTO THE SMALL HOLE ON THE ARMS OF THE HINGES. If you fully open the door you will see a small hole on one part of each hinge arm. As the door closes the arm with this hole slips between the other hinge parts. Inserting a pin will prevent the hinge from snapping shut when you remove the door and potentially smashing your finger with its strong spring. Once inserted you can remove the cover plate for the hinge pocket (one screw each side). Close the door to "broiling position" (about two/three inches open) and lift the door up off the bars within the hinge pockets to remove from stove. (Our SS range doesn't have sides so you could see how the door hinges just slip over and lock onto the pins in the hinge pockets.......the pocket trim covers lock the hinges on the pins during normal operation. At this point you just need to remove a few screws to remove the SS door skin to expose the hinges. Remove the one or two screws at the end on the hinge and lift that end up to slide the other end out of the retaining slots. Installation is the reverse...the replacement hinges have cute little pins that hold them open so, after installing on oven door, you can insert them into the hinge pockets and onto the pins as you hold door in the "broil position". After reinstalling the hinge pocket cover plates, you can open the door and easily remove the retaining pins. Sounds like a lot but probably would take approximately one hour if you don't remove glass for cleaning.

SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

Diagnosis is the important aspect. Ovens have plunger-type switches to tell the "brain" door is closed, both for the light AND to allow initiation of self cleaning. Finally discovered one of those switches was "scratchy" in operation and unreliable in closing the circuit. (Push the plungers in and out several times and observe the light.) If not 100% reliable, replace that switch (cheap and easy with a Phillips screwdriver.) Initial guess was a $major "brain"-electronics problem but it was merely a sticky switch. Strange since the unit is about a year and a half old and rarely used. Found the part easily with PartSelect, and it came via UPS quickly.

After removing the protective panel from the back, I used one of those screw holes to hold the new mother board right next to the existing one. I unplugged one connection & and plugged in to the new board. A couple of the wires didn't reach, but I committed those to memory. It looks a lot more intimadating than it is. It looks like a bunch of spaghetti, but its easier than it looks and it saved me at least $750

I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).

Stove is over 16 years old. I am getting new kitchen in the summer, did not want to buy another stove! I looked on line and found how easy it was to replace element. We turned off power as suggested and removed element to make sure it matched the one on line. I ordered element on Sunday afternoon and it arrived Tuesday afternoon, FedEx ground. Insert the clips and a couple screws and we were having oven fries for dinner. I could not be happier and pretty darn proud of myself for saving a couple hundred dollars on a repair man!

In oven I unscrewed orfice; replaced with new orfice. On stove top the people who make it sent a kit for $11.00, plus S & H. I installed it as per instructions.

However, I was very happily surprised how fast I got the part even though I did not specify fast shipping.

Sunday, four days before Thanksgiving, our oven would not bake properly. A quick check indicated the top element was not working. What to do? Where to get a part in time to fix for Thanksgiving dinner? The answer was easy - PartSelect. I had the part in my hands on Tuesday AM. Oven was fixed in 15 minutes and my wife was baking pies within an hour. All worked well and yes, we had a wonderful trukey dinner. Great service !

I deduced that it had to be a major computer part and when I e-mail parts select, they concurred. I got the part and had my repair guys come install it. It did not work when he finished after three hours. after another mother board was sent a friend carefully installed it with me recording the lineup of the wires and calling them out to him. when he took the other board off he found a bad port, that did not fit well. it is now working beautifully and I got to bake all my cookies and bars for the holidays! Thank you Parts select for you help and your forum! couldn't have done it without you!

Removed old part with a pair of pliers and plugged the new part into place.

Very simple and the self cleaning feature works again.

Blower motor stopped working and the breaker tripped. Horrible smell! from the somewhere in the oven. Looking at the wiring diagram told me that there was a relay board feeding he motor, but I had no idea where it was, which took a little Internet searching to find it. Finally seeing that it was in the rear I was happy to see that there was enough flexible gas line to pull out the stove enough to check the board, which was fried. I replaced the board and then looked for the reason it smoked and found that the blower motor was shorted (and stank horribly).
It was straighforward to replace, but when I put everything back, NOTHING worked at all - no lights on the control panel, nothing. I then checked the voltage across the terminals and saw 240V and was puzzled until saw that there was no 120V to neutral where the plug connected to the back of the stove. The outlet, however, had 120V to neutral. Since it was a molded plug I thought that was not likey to be a cmmon failure, so after killing th breaker I took off the outlet cover that the stove plugged into and found out that the neutral terminal was intermittent.
The neutral contacts were not grabbing the netral terminal on the plug tightly enough and were a little discolored in one spot. All that moving around of the plug while moving the stove probably moved it just enough not to work at all - that thing was a fire hazard that I'm surprised hadn't been the cause of more damage in a house only 12 years old. Rather than try and clean the termnals and trust bending them to be tighter (and worry about metal fatigue) I spent the $10 so that I could sleep better for a tight new 240V 30A outlet.
Everthing works like a charm now.

If I had known there was a shipping pin holding the hinge in place, it would have gone a lot easier. I thought I had the wrong replacement hinge but finally figured it out. A little note with the hinge indicating a shipping pin must be removed to complete installation would be helpful to idiots like me. Now that I know, the job is only a 15 minutes.

Removed four screws; withdrew two burners; set two new burners in place; installed same old screws. That was it. When I turned them on to adjust the flame, they came on almost instantly and no adjustment was needed.

Wife loves the nice new look.

Contacted customer service via email. Included a description of the problem as well as a photo that clearly showed that the Front Burner Assembly was, in fact, NOT an assembly when it arrived.

Nobody even acknowledged my email.
This was a $140 assembly.

Never again will use these guys for repair parts.